Metro

I've been following this thread for a while, but haven't posted. I just wanted to say that it looks amazing. It's so subtle, but fits so well.

The VE table will not change with a different map sensor, it's completely set by you. I was going to say a log would be more helpful, but looking at your VE table, it's pretty messed up.Same with your spark table. You need to work on your tune, big time. Judging by your required fuel number I would guess you have 500cc injectors. If you don't, your required fuel number is way off and will make tuning much more difficult. You should only mess with that number if you know exactly what you're doing. So if you do have 500cc injectors, I would say any value over 180 in your VE table is going to be wrong. So setting it to 255 in light boost areas should be enough to choke the motor.

If you have stock injectors your required fuel should be around 12ms / squirts. You don't have injectors listed and the engine size is set to 2000. These are just used for the calculator as far as I know, but still. Did you check your timing with a timing light? Your "Ignition Input Capture" is set to "Rising Edge", DIY recommends using "Falling Edge".

You should start a new thread in the MS forum. For one thing, most of us run much higher timing you do. I'm running 41° at cruise and 25° at 180 KpA. You can also lean out your cruising AFRs to something closer to 14:7.

The biggest thing you will have to consider is the rpm signal to MS. The L28et use an optical distributor and the L28e use a VR distributor. It's fairly simple for me to change these and set a new trigger angle, but some new users struggle with it. If you want to avoid having to reconfigure MS for the new distributor, you could put the L28et's optical assembly on your L28e. You will have to drop the oil pump and swap the shafts each time. Another option would be to go for a crank or flywheel mounted trigger wheel you could swap between motors. But since you mention MS3 and have an optical distributor on hand, you could go full sequential injection with DIY's modified trigger wheel for the optical distributor. Beyond that, you would need to do the same thing for each motor to run MS - TPS, CLT, IAT, etc.

I'm not much of an expert on Celicas, but the first gen Celica weighed about as much as a 240z and had half the horsepower. I've always loved the look of the first gen, especially the liftback, but the engines they offered were anemic.

Dude, you need to spend a lot of time reading about MS and other ECUs. The fact that you can "rev it up" means it's connected and working in harmony with MS. There's no reason to change your distributor. I can see fresh weld beads under the reluctor, so it looks like the PO did the correct thing by welding the arms of the mechanical advance. You change your timing by connecting to MS with a laptop and a serial cable. Install Tunerstudio and check your ECU's version, settings, and then once you know what you're working with and have a basic understanding of MS, come back here and we'll help you out with any questions. http://www.tunerstudio.com/ http://www.msextra.com/doc/index.html

You'll have to dig through your wiring to figure it out, here's the general MS1 external wiring you can use as a reference http://www.msextra.com/doc/general/ms1external.html

Pin #37 on MS is a fuel pump relay ground. It will only turn the fuel pump on to prime for 1-2 seconds (depending on settings) and when the engine is running - engine RPM signal is detected. If your MS is wired correctly to use a fuel pump relay, something is wrong if the fuel pump is always on.

Like AkRev said before, your priming pulse is like off the charts insanely high. I think I might be using the default settings for a SBC and it starts 2ms at 180° and goes to 6ms at 10°F. Change your plugs or do what you can to clean them up (propane torch, etc). Secondly, have you verified your timing at any point along this venture? Like unplug your injectors and crank the engine while MS is set to fixed advance. Your trigger wheel will still give an rpm signal with incorrect wheel settings, while the spark events will be way off. It really does sounds like your timing is wrong. Also, aren't toyota 440cc injectors low impedance? You have your injectors configured with PWM on and the duty cycle set to 100%, which means it's sending full current like you would for high impedance injectors. Once you've checked those things, a data log of it sputtering would be helpful.

This guy uploads torrents of SkySport's qualifying and race coverage. They're high quality and available within an hour or two of the race ending.

I use the same Hamlin hall sensor DIY sells with an '81 L28et crank wheel modified to 30-1. It has tiny teeth, more akin to nubs, about 2-3mm high with a 10mm gap between each tooth. I haven't had a single issue with it since I installed it, reading RPM up to 7000rpm. If you go by the documents, the 81 wheel is probably out of spec, but the sensor is very versatile.

Yeah that's pretty much what I said, just go with it and you should be set.

That's definitely a hall sensor, it has three wires, VCC, signal, and ground, meaning you need to give vcc 12volts when the key is turned on. A VR sensor will just have two wires, producing AC voltage (just connect the two wires to MS as tach-in and ground). You should still connect it to MS as a VR sensor (tsel->VRIN), the signal it outputs should be readable by MS. I'm using the non-threaded Hamlin hall sensor that DIYautotune sells and that has worked for me. If that doesn't work, then you might need to do a 12v pull up on the signal and the MS1 hardware docs will tell you how.

65k+ rpm is a software configuration error. Specifically, error #27 I think. A forum post about the error messages says this: "If you are seeing 65,000 rpm, but no message, go to Communications and Mini Terminal. Then turn your Megasquirt off then back on again. You will see a message displayed telling you why the code found a problem with your settings." It's late, but I don't see anything obvious that's wrong in your MSQ. Double check all the settings you've changed and maybe start a new tune from default and try again.

There's a lot of fuzzy information in this thread. All North American N/A EFI motors use some type of a VR sensor in the distributor. All L28et motors have a sensor that outputs a square wave signal, so they are hall/optical. The '81 L28et has a crank mounted toothed wheel with a VR sensor, but it has circuitry to clean and shape the signal so the output is identical to the 82-83 optical distributor. While the L28et uses a hall/optical type sensor, you still should select VR input. I think the benefit here is the VR circuitry has filters to clean up the signal. Just follow the DIYautotune guide that winstonusmc posted.

It should be the white wire if you're using the DIY harness. The black wire goes to the common ground wire they use. So the black wire should ohm out to any of the other sensor grounds.

I like what this guy did for his BMW, the entire build is pretty interesting to read. http://77e21.info/mscampossensor.htm As for the VR distributor route, I had considered that too. If you ground off 5 of the nubs, it would work. As for which one to keep, there's a specific angle you want to shoot for that I can't think off the top of my head (it's in the MS3 docs). The distributor isn't ideal for various reasons like shaft play, possibility of breaking the pin, etc, but it should work.

Yeah there's a surprising amount of info to read. On the front page of this very forum in fact. But anyway, I wouldn't recommend getting a v3.57 board. It will really limit what you can do with it down the road if you want to make any changes. Stick to the v3.0 board.

Read some of this and read some more. Using google with site:forums.hybridz.org will find many topics on both your questions. There's also the Megasquirt FAQ section. I would recommend to get a distributor (280z or 280zx) and go from there. Once that's working, look into EDIS or even better, no EDIS and use MS in wasted spark mode with an ignitor and coilpack of your choosing.

There's only one way to do the outputs for spark, so I guess they got rid of those config options with MS2. In MS1, you had to set all your outputs you were using and if you did it wrong it didn't work. So yes, just pick wasted COP and based on the number of cylinders, it will know what outputs to use. I'm not familiar with the v3.57 board, but the spark outputs are out of order like that with the v3.0 board.

No matter what you use to trigger MS, you'll still be interfacing with the same circuitry. If you have no RPM on the stim, you need to fix that before anything else.

With a VR sensor you don't really need to do anything other than connect the correct jumpers. The stim should give you rpm without any trouble, but in car, you will need to play with the trim pots a bit to clean up the signal. So basically, if you don't have any RPM on the stim, you might want to check the whole circuit for bad components/solders.

I'm not really sure what size that rail is for. It says the ID is 0.5" and my 3/8" npt tap says to use a 7/16" bit (.4375). I'm guessing an M14 tap would use a slightly smaller hole, say 13mm. So it will either be just right or you'll need patience and a big wrench. I'm going to be making a new rail in a few days and opted for the -8 size so I can use 1/2 NPT to AN -6 fittings on the ends.

The optical distributor outputs a square wave signal to the ecu, you could try tapping into that. I grabbed this from the Megasquirt guide: Dizzy side ------------ Harness Side Red (12v) B/W White (MS trigger) G/B Green (not used) G/Y Black (gnd) Black Try teeing into the G/B wire and see if that will work for whatever you're using.