Metro

I read that article a week ago and yeah, it basically just filled me with despair. There's a lot of good things to take away from it though that I'll incorporate into future projects, just with $20, not $2000 equipment.

Sounds like your (stock nissan?) ignitor died.

It's funny how many Z car hoarders seem to be in the northwest. Works out great for me.

I was going to suggest a Borla XR-1 as well. Granted, I only have a L28et, but there's no drone and it's only a little loud at idle when standing outside.

You'll need to build a circuit to output the correct signal when using the tachoout and our old tachs. There's a few ways to do it, all listed on the MS Extra site. I'm using the coil method because I didn't want to rewire my coils. It's basically a transistor and a small relay with the switching part removed (so it doesn't click). Energizing the little coil in the relay outputs the same type of signal our tach are used to. The other popular method is to use diodes on the coilpack grounds, but I haven't personally tried it.

Zip your log file and MSQ and then you'll be able to upload it. What the map sensor reads depends on your elevation and the weather, but around 95-105kpa is pretty normal. It will drop down while cranking due to engine vacuum. On a stock L28et, it should idle around 30-40kpa. The fact that you're seeing a RPM signal is a good sign though.

I prefer Firefox personally, but I would recommend Chrome to anyone else. Firefox is great for developers, but has problems with eating memory requiring a restart every day or so. Chrome doesn't have any of those issues. Granted, my computers are always running and I usually have 30 tabs open. Memory usage might not be a problem for you.

Looks homemade using a blank from Ross Machine Racing.

The throttle cable pull thing they've created seems very cool and it would definitely solve some of my problems with pedal travel.

It would be funny if that's all it was, but from what I read the MS2 chip doesn't use the crystal for timing. The instructions say it can be soldered on for completeness.

I'm not your target market, but that really does seem like a great price for what you're getting.

You have the wrong map sensor set. You should be using the MPX4250 and it's set to MPXH6400 - a 4 bar sensor. I suggest you reload the default MSQ for your version of MS2 and then change each setting by hand by comparing it to other tunes.

The required fuel is the amount of fuel needed for a perfect burn. It will go up or down depending on the size of your injectors. You should set it to the correct amount for your injector size. Most people are running larger injectors, thus the number is lower. The req_fuel value is used as the base for all your fuel calculations. so you need to set it correctly now and then start tuning. Looking at screenshots of my old MS settings for a stock motor, you should have a required around 12. Anyway, you just need to read and learn how to use MS. Then try and apply your knowledge and then come back here when you have difficulties. It sounds like you just fired it up without any knowledge of what you were doing. http://www.msextra.com/doc/index.html

Yeah my mistake, BIP373. It just doesn't work that way. In order to make logic level outputs fire a coil you will need to supply ignitors (homemade ignition module with the BIPs) or an friendlier multichannel ignition module (Bosch? 300zx?) to drive the coils. The other alternative is running COP (such as LSx which have built in ignitors) in wasted spark mode, since I'm guessing if you lack the cam input for full sequential. Anyway to answer your question, there's this thread. It very much looks like you'll be treading unknown waters using the GM-DIS, so if you're new to MS, I would look for other options. Wiring up a homemade ignition pack with a 36-1 wheel is just about the easiest thing you can do with MS and there will be tons of people out there to help you.

I'm not entirely sure what you're talking about, but googling Commodore VT-VY ignition module shows pictures of a GM DIS wasted spark coil packs. You might have seen this article. I removed the old electronics and replaced it with three BIP323 ignitors. It seems like most people go that route. Theoretically you should be able to use them like an EDIS, but you would need to supply the correct signal of which, I have no idea.

When I had a problem with leaning out a specific RPMs, it was due to dirty injectors. I sent them off to be cleaned by witch hunter performance and it fixed the problem. If you can, swap out your injectors for another set and see if that helps.

You need to be more specific in what you're trying to show. From what I've skimmed in your log files, everything looks relatively ok. I'm assuming the problem logs are the short log files of RPM pulls, are showing very rich around 10:1 which corresponds to to VE table going into the 200+ range. With 450cc injectors, I don't believe I ever went higher than 170 in the VE table at 15psi on the stock turbo.

From what you've told us, 70 sounds correct for the #1 tooth angle. With a 36-1 wheel you should see 34 short teeth and the 35 tooth will be twice as tall as the rest. If you're seeing multiple long teeth back to back, MS is losing sync. Try adjusting your sensor's air gap. Then try adjusting the trim pots on the board. Your coil order is correct too, how are you firing your coils? You'll have to remember that when doing the mods for spark output that they're not in order: A = R26, B = R29, C = R27. Also you shouldn't attempt to start the car when the timing isn't set. You should unplug the injectors and crank the engine with the timing fixed to 10 degrees. Then adjust your #1 tooth angle until your timing light matches up.

I'm not all that familiar with ORB fittings, sounds like they're similar to AN fittings. A -6 should have an ID of 3/8th of an inch and a -10 should be 5/8th. I used all AN-6 hoses in my 280z because they would slip onto the hard lines.

Anymore, it's fairly easy to copy a tune between different versions of MS. With TunerStudio, it can read just about any Megasquirt configuration file (msq) you give it. So what you'll want to do is find a car with a similar setup to yours, open their msq file in TS then open another copy of TS and start a new project for your own car. Then you can just manually copy the values from the VE and Spark table into your own project file. I think it's bad practice to just take someone's msq and use it as your own project, you should start from scratch. That way you definitely start out with the default values that MS wants for your code version and adjust from there. It also lets you learn as you go, to find out what MS is capable of and where everything is located.

Thanks, but MS is firing the coils directly and it fires them in sequence. Although the output mods you need to do on the board ARE done out of order, which is a little disconcerting. I honestly haven't looked at them lately. Before I started actually driving the car with MS1, they had a lot of little white flecks from, I'm assuming, predetonation. Unfortunately, I'm in the process of moving and the car is 200 miles away from me at my brother's house. It'll be a while before I can get back to work on it. Although I do have the MS2 ecu and I just picked up an oscilloscope to play with.

What like coils out of order? Seems like it wouldn't run at all. Playing with the spark test last night Coil A was 1+6, Coil B was 2+5, and Coil C is 3+4. It like runs smoothly for a second, then shakes violenty, drops 100rpm and repeats - at all RPMs and nothing readily apparent is wrong.

You should have 35 teeth, with the 35th being the long tooth with a 36-1. You would also be getting sync loss notices in TS, if it wasn't reading all the teeth. I'm not sure how obvious that is, because I haven't really seen it myself.

TunerStudio creates your log files either by going to Datalogging -> start logging or under the Diagnostic tab where you can turn on the tooth logger and log to file. To view the files that TS creates, you would need a MLV. So technically you can create all the logs you want with TS and never use MLV, but that's a bit silly, since you will want to review your own logs at some point. It's free to try, so download it and install it. If you decide to buy it, you can just enter the serial number in to activate it.

I honestly forgot MS2 had a test mode. I bolted a metal bar to the head with some spark plugs and played with the coil tester. The only slightly odd thing was the second spark for each coil was weaker. I suppose this is normal though, with the energy loss going through the first plug. The spark did sort of flicker in intensity, but all in all, I think it was behaving normally. I plugged in the MS1 ecu and cranked it to watch the spark and it looked about the same. I ordered an oscilloscope so I can check out what the injectors are doing when it's running. I'll try the injector test tomorrow to see what's coming out of the injectors, with a fire extinguisher handy. I wish mine ran likes yours did, but it's completely undriveable at all RPMs. It just misses and shakes violently the whole time.