fusion

Thanks for all the comments everyone

Thanks for all comments. Jmortensen, great pictures. I was thinking I could just cut the mount off flush with the engine side frame rail, weld in a new angled plate and mount the bushing there. Would save a ton of time with spot welds. NewZed, very interesting idea, thanks. That could be a great solution. Upon initial look getting around the tie rods could be an issue, but not out of the question.

I just hope Apex and other vendors offer the super 8.8 option. By the way, I posted a new thread that I would appreciate if you suspension experts would pop in and give your advice:

Hi guys, looking for advice/comments on a question I have. I am in the process of building a 5.3L turbo 280z and am looking at my downpipe routing down the passenger side. It's going to be tight, and I was looking at the tension rod mount that sticks out into the engine bay. If I could use a shorter tension rod, and fabricate a new mount outboard towards the tire, I could gain a bunch of space. (See crude picture) I willingly admit that I don't know how this would affect the driving of the car. I could do both sides but only need the passenger side. The car will not be tracked, just a street car with a couple of drag passes a year. Thanks for any advice.

Hopefully someone else can contact him so he can give his response.

I did email ohmster many days ago and asked him to respond. I am surprised he chose not to.

I emailed TTT and they said they are working on a Z power cradle for the super 8.8.

Yes I saw it, it looks like a great option. The more options the better!

The super 8.8 is a superior diff to the regular 8.8 so I hope both companies offer the super 8.8 option

Thanks for your comments. Maybe splitting the pipe into 2 smaller pipes will allow for a better tuck around the diff. I'd MUCH rather run it out the back.

Thank you. I am in the process of building a 5.3/turbo 280z and I am very interested in using a super 8.8 diff. I am going to install the engine/trans soon and fabricating all the mounts. I want to mount the engine/trans at a downward angle that is equal/opposite to the pinion angle, especially since changing the diff pinion angle seems much less straightforward than a solid axle. So when using your kit, the pinion angle is -2*? Also, how much lower is the pinion flange than the transmission output shaft? Also, I am very interested in raising the diff up higher into the body, to gain ground clearance for exhaust routing. Could you highlight in pictures or a diagram of how this would be accomplished and how much clearance could be gained? I would be willing to cut the body depending on what is gained. Thanks

When this was installed in David's or anyone's car, was the pinion angle measured? How can it be adjusted if need be?

Anyone else? I'm especially curious of any input on going over the axles or out the sides in front of the tires.

Thanks man. I will certainly consider oval tubing. I'm hoping others chime in as well.

I am building a 76 280z LS/turbo car. I was planning on running 3.5" single exhaust. I may reduce it to 3" after the trans. I would really like to run it all the way out the back. Upon looking under the car, this looks like it will be a sizeable challenge. The car already sits fairly low. I am planning on running a super 8.8 diff. Looks like the 3 options are: 1) run it under the diff and around the gas tank (Camaro tank). This is probably the easiest, but would likely result with the least ground clearance 2) run it above the axle next to the diff. Looks really tight, maybe even tighter with a super 8.8 and beefy axles 3) run it out in front of the rear passenger tire. Might be room to make a 90* turn right after the passenger side frame rail and sneak it out in front of the sway bar. Would have to cut out seat belt pocket and modify exterior sheet metal so exhaust exits right in front of tire. This option has very limited room for a muffler and I'm concerned about noise and fumes in the cabin. Does anyone have any advice or pictures? It would be super helpful. Thanks

I emailed the owner a few times to ask about a super 8.8 version. No sense in my mind to use the explorer diff. He told me they were working on it. He was initially fairly responsive but haven't heard anything from my last email. Can you give more detail about the bushings and your experience?

Thanks for the comments everyone.

Hello, I cut out the seat bracing in my 76 280z so I could run different seats and put them directly on the floor. I could weld in a 2x2 square tube back in where the forwardmost brace was. I would weld to trans tunnel on one side and the inside of the rocker on the other. Is it worth it? I know these cars benefit from additional bracing but not sure if this area matters. Car has a 5 point roll bar. Thanks

Thanks a lot. According to the information on the website, that must mean than the deluxe are 0.066" and the STD are 0.033"

Hi guys, From my research it appears that the Marugen shoukai ZG flares are the best quality. I believe the only place to order is from RHDJapan. They have 3 types: standard, deluxe and special - in order of thickness. Does anyone have experience with any of these and would have a recommendation? I am leaning towards the special, but the website says they have the deluxe in stock and I'm assuming this would mean I would get them much faster. Also I'm not sure how thick is good enough. Has anyone used their wider ZG flares? I didn't see any mention on the website about the thickness or even how wide they are. Also, someone in another thread mentioned using jessestreeter.com to order? Any thoughts? Thanks

If the area in red in my picture had a passageway, then the wires running from the front to the back wouldn't need to be in the interior space of the cabin. It would just be a cleaner install, IMO. Your point of the wires still being in the footwell is a good point. I will be doing a complete rewire and won't be using the factory connectors. It looks like if the area in red was opened up, a passageway could be created. Maybe not though, I'm not sure what's in the way in that area. Thought I'd ask if someone has done it or at least knows what it looks like in there.

Thanks for your reply. Has anyone ever opened this area up? It sure would be nice to not have wires in the cabin.

I have a 1976 280z. When I got the car, there were no wires running from the front to the back for the taillights/etc. I believe that the factory wires run in between the body and wheel well on passenger side. But how do they get up to the firewall area? It looks like they would run perfectly in the channel of the inside rocker area, but I cannot fish anything through the area right at the base of the wheel well/door area. (See picture) How have others done this? Pictures would be really nice. Thanks in advance

How much are the axles and what power level will they hold? Thanks

Thanks for your reply. Anyone have any pics/info on mounting 3 point belts with a roll bar? Is mounting any parts of the seat belt to the roll bar make sense?