240Z_Master

I think these are the bad boys I'm looking for.

I found this posted by one of our members in a different old thread... The specs for the 1970-89 Z wheel studs are a 12mm-1.25mm thread, and a knurl diameter of 12.87mm. The early Z cars used a 32mm length, but your 280Z probably has the longer 36mm studs. The 280ZX's and Z31's had a 40mm long stud and the 240SX used a 42mm one. The longest ones (that I am aware of) that will fit your hubs can be found on the rear of the Nissan Quest Van. It is 47mm long.

The studs for the 240Z [Mine is a 1970], are the same length front and rear correct? Also what year Quest studs are you folks dropping in? How much further in mm does it stick out than stock? :EDIT Nevermind just read On3Go's post.

That makes sense, thanks for the info.

Why do you say that? You say that a scoop behind the plate to vent air to the rotors is horrible?

Yeah, I noticed that on early early 70's. My 10/70 didn't have it.

I was talking to Auston [240Hoke] and we were talking about the typical routing the air to the rotors like SCCA cars or what not. But has anyone cut out a hole on the backing plate and welded a scoop to it? Nothing major, more like 18/20g sheet metal that gets bolted or welded onto the backing plate to direct air right onto the rotors? If so, please show me pictures of how you cool your brakes via hoses/scoops whatever.

mmm, 9 grand.... just the thought of that is damn cool. Almost brings back memories of the Mine's BCNR34 in the Best Motoring vids.

If you ned help getting an AEM ECU I might have a wholesale connection on that. But also AEM is a plug and play unit so wouldn't you need the OE harness?

Not only that, they got good prices. I got my Fidanza flywheel from them for a good price for my RB.

Maybe you should get a new GF, see if that solves your problem. Haha, just kidding.

I had a feeling it had to do with the fork or the pivot.

Owen if you need help making copies let me know, I can coem over with my lappy and we can burn away if need be.

That's why I was wondering if someone had one so I could get a copy and share the costs.

I actually just bought the Haynes manual online for like 13 bucks shipped off of Amazon. So I'll just wait it out until then. No need to scan and email them. Thanks for that. Paint Code is 919. The color was only available up to 8/71 I think. I am in love with this yellow and it looks really nice. My front air dam is Urethane. I can get wholesale on Xenon products [the company that makes my air dam]. Or you could just get it from MSA for more. Contact me if you have any other questions.

Is it a CD? Or the actual manual?

I have searched far and wide. I also don't think that I should spend 70 bucks at courtesy parts for this also since they don't even have a 1970 or 1971 CD. I really need all the torque specs on the suspension. If anyone has a copy of the 72 Courtesy Parts CD or any other PDF's? Can you e-mail me the PDFs? Or make a copy of the CD, and I'll shoot some money your way for shipping and troubles? Please help me out anyone. -Quoc I would like to invest in a Haynes manual if anyone asks. But I would rather have the CD.

Anyone have the 1970 or 1971 Factory Service Manuals? I really just want to know the torque specs on the suspension stuff. Engine doesn't really concern me. PDFs? Email them to me?

Owen, if you have it on CD or DVD I could come by and grab a copy?

THanks Jamie! I was considering the kit, and haven't decided if I wanted to do this or not. I was merely trying to find information for HybridZ or those of you who wanted to find info about the kit. I knew a few things about a few of the different style trans mounts and what not. So I wanted to check with McKinney for everyone that's all. They are sort of local so that when the kit is done, I can go there, check it out, and inform the website of my findings. Ask questions etc... Will keep you posted!

Whoa whoa whoa now. I understand what it takes to modify the RB26. That's the reason I went with the RB25 and all of the research I did for both engines. Just kidding Jamie, but yeah don't assume we're all noobs =P.

I guess anyone can fab anything. But if the kit has already been done, all you would really have to do is pay for the parts. Take it to some other shop they'll charge you an arm and three legs for "labor" and "custom fabrication". I was just curious and asked a buddy how much it would cost to fab a tranny mount, and he said 300-400 bucks. And my motor had to be in, if I didnt have the motor he woulda charged to mount the motor etc... Take it like this, a shop will charge for everything!

Kind of like the old style SU Carbs with the water running through the manifold.

I belive it is just a bit of small piping for water.