hanomon

Tim, Lol dude you would not believe the day to day goings on in this house! First off I'm closer today then I was yesterday to starting this car. It has been quite a learning expierence, as I'm typically a nuts and bolts guy. These relays and this high tech stuff gives me slight nogin'-throbin. Don't get me wrong, I'm having a blast with it all! Reason the two 60amp fuses feed the ignition switch is they go to a DAB or (delayed accessories bus). I won't be needing all those bells and whistles so, I've decided to use those circuts for other accessories. Door popers, windows, tunes etc. About the ballcap/shirt offer, my bank has confirmed the deposits from Paypal so I'll be confirmed soon and you will have my contribution. Mahalo and Aloha. Dave

My-bad, bogus post. The component in the print I was refering to is the ignition switch, not a relay! Duh.

According to the service manual schematic on the starting circut, the drawing identifies this only as the ignition relay. No mention of Ampers rating. So my question is two fold. With two 60amp rated wires entering and one exiting, what would be the amp capacity rating? and what type of relay would this be? DPST, SPDT, or DPDT. The old Datsun relay is only a 10amp circut. I'm sure I would fry it if used. Thanks, Dave

If you don't mind soldering or splicing a few lines 3 or 4, I'll send you an extra DLC out of an IROC. I believe it was a 95'

I have the service manuals for that spicific year, and in these two volumes of info I remember reading that each PCM is designated at the factory, issued a identification number (bar-code) for each vehicle according to various particulars for instance, manual-trans vs automatic, In my cast vin-J or vin-P two different engine options. I don't know how interchangable those control modules are between yrs 95' to 93'- 94' various models makes etc? I have the tuner cat program also, but have yet to explore it as I'm just firing this beast up today. Yee-haw!

I have a 94' LT1 and these O2 sensors are heated on this vin-p vette.

A few years back, I knew a guy here in San Diego (Kazumi) he use to work for the then Balboa Racing Team or BRT now Mossy Nissan in national city. These guys were taking out approx 10lbs from that L28 block and fitting them with Chevy Vega pistons. I could contact him and get exact numbers. I think it brought the displacement up to around 3150 or 3175?

Kind of like a Gospel theme. New life for old things. Swift, simple, with plenty of power to get me their. Not of this world

I instaled the computer behind the fire wall in the space where the wipers were.

You should be fine with that new well. I got a pair of flowmasters up under that left side with the stock spare-well. Had to hack a bunch out from up underneath where the bumper suport was to get them wedged up in their.

Depends on what model vehicle that motor comes out of. For example if you get it out of say a Corvette, the CR is approx 10.5 to 1 thus making the supercharger or turbocharging a bit difficult. Where as on a lower CR motor like 8.5 or 9 to 1 this is much more doable. Exhaust, what do you mean by stock? I'd say probably not. Welcome to the forum. read-read-read, and then read some more bro! Any specific questions you can PM me as I've installed a 94' LT-1 out of a Corvette, and am finishing up on the wiring.

Back in my homeland (Hi) spam is a delicacy.

BOOM TOWN huh? Boom-boom-out-go-the-lights! Rocker Pat Travers predicted our current (ha,ha) electrical conditions. Either our state's elected officials were too stupid to forcast the elect. need or, they just like sending our monies to other state's power generators?

I had a difficult time reading my print also. Took the page to Kinkos and for $7.50 had it blown up 250x about the size of an actual blueprint. Way easier to decipher.

I'm what you might call a cold weather whimp. Raised in the Hawaiian islands, I come here to SoCal and if it ain't 75deg. my tropical blood is chilin'. Wow Tim, you're hard core dude. No sox on your feet yet? Last night got way down to <60deg. I had to break out my Ugg-boots! Ok, so would you like a salary or, health care benifits?

Limited-Slip-Differential?

Nice work, could you make it a removable hard top? That would be sweet for cruzzzzzzing here in SoCal. AKA topless car country.

What model is your vehicle? 240-60-80-etc? Year? 1) Do you own a shop manual for it? or have access to one? 2) Is an electric circut tester/multi-meter an item in your toolbox? Its (probably) DC powered if you do have one, Is the battery good? If you answered NO to 1 or more of the above, I believe resolving those will bring you much closer, if not right to it. Chances are someone here is able to provide you with the info you seek. However, some basic (important) info is missing from your question. Not trying to be a wise guy, I'm just trying to lead you in the right direction. Dave

Phantom, don't mean to pirate this thread but, those fan relays you mentioned failed, what type were they? Were you able to identify the exact cause? I'm assuming you had 2 as you used the plural in your post. Fan-1 and fan-2. During the repair did you replace exact or did you modify? (upgrade amp/curant ratings)? Stock or aftermarket? brand names? Sory for the barage of questions but I'm fixin' to wire up the fan circuts real soon. Thanks, Dave

Yes I have picts, I can email them to you if you wish as my Zcar build link is under construction. Yes, it is that yellow insulating foam you refered to and, I forgot to mension if after applied, it can't breathe, It won't dry completly. In other words, if the air dosen't hit it, and more is better (mobeta') it stays gooey. PCM is the main component of the LT-1 computer system. it stands for (Powertrain-engine Control Module)

First let me start out by saying that I'm not an expert body guy, so these are IMOs and observations. I think the viscosity or thickness is proportunate to the ability to knock it down with sandpaper. Example; Bonod is about like bread dough or peanut butter and, is harder to sand down. Where as cream fillers like Feather Coat, are more like pancake batter or yogert and will sand out much easier. So the thinner your filler, the better they tend to spread on, and then blend out. As far as thinning or cutting them, as long as you're using a polyurethane bassed product (resin type) styrene or monomer additave will thin it out to a desired consistancy. If I'm way off here, perhaps an autobody pro will chime in to correct me.

Looks like that's another >100hp minimum. I was just ckecking out the install instructions on line about 2days ago and I was thinking, (ok I was dreaming),huummm. Then these picts post. WOW yeha baby. To quote some Disney dude, (maybe it was that little green cricket guy with the tophat) "See...dreams CAN, and DO come true"

Vents to atmosphere

When I mounted the PCM in the void where the wiper assembly was, I molded it with that expanding foam STUFF from a hardware store. The part was placed into one of those thin plastic gerocery bags which allowed the foam to conform very tightly to the part to be housed. The result was great! The PCM popped right out and left a nice snug perfect fit. That STUFF has good thermal properties also. (although flamable when ignited) we torched a piece as an experiment and it burns real good! Another old-school (trick) technique I'll share here from my surfboard manufacturing days. Save yourself a lot of sanding by laying a piece of waxpaper over the area (especially when using matt or hair) will leave a nice smooth texture. Any lumps/bubbles can be rolled out while it is still workable and you can see right through it. Be sure to peal it off SHORTLY after it begins to kick. Waiting too long here will melt the wax and actually bond to the paper, making the after sanding step a nightmare.

Thanks Guy, I found a couple adjustment screws behind the tach. Assuming these were calibration points, as one of them was factory-tape sealed. I applied a low voltage signal across the leads and measured with a multi-meter as I turned the screw back and forth watching the voltage fluctuate only in one direction, the signal dropped when the other screw was backed out. So that tach can be calibrated rather easily verifying it to the hand held strobe-a-tach. I found the flow path in the (IC) circut tonight. This should work fine. Those rechargable hand tool battries are great for testing partrs at the junkyard prior to purchase too.