hanomon

Super clean and stright 1975' 280-Z from Classic Cars.com = $3,300 Slightly used (63k miles) 1994' Corvette LT-1 eng/trans on ebay = $3,000 Watching your kid brother's 40k$ Porsche shrink in the rear-view mirror = Priceless! For most things there is Master Card, for everything else . . . HybridZ.org

Here in CA, on the DMV's web site, we are able to type in a desired plate (up to 7 spaces) and see if it has been issued or is accepted. I tried RICEATR and it got rejected as well as I XLR8 and UD LOSE, so I settled for the MUTANT Z.

MUTANT Z

Tub it!

Mech complete. Engine elect 95% complete. Body 75% complete. Family factors minimized to non critical levels....Priceless. Yes, I will be starting this baby up very soon (with in the next few days). Mahalo/Thanks for the continued support.

Anybody know who has a yellow 72 or 73 with a V-8 on East bound 78 5-26-05 in San Diego's (tri-city area). The wife and I were crusing homeward when we spotted him. She gave him a thumbs up and he let us hear it...Sweeeet! That car was clean. Hope to see it again, close up. Good job, who ever you are!

Welcome Kris, Yes. That is if you don't want to twist your Z when you stomp on it. (assuming you have an older model 70's). Where to start you ask? 1) Use the search feature here on this site (most of what you need to know has been discussed previously). 2) JTR has a few publications you may want to invest in, good resource material. 3) Read the Announcements at the top of the page (posted by our administrators) and, all the stickys in the various forums here.

Yes! that's it. Thanks wheelman, U-da-man!

Can someone with an LT-1 tell me where on the female end of the factory clip do the Red-Tan-Yellow wires go off the engine oil sense? I know the center bottom is blank but, I'm clueless as to the locations of the three leads. Me being the retard that I am, neglected to notice exactly where in the clip they were before removing all three of them duh! I've fed the entire modified factory harness through a 3/4" gromet hole for the firewall (took approx 5hrs) as almost every wire had to be seperated from it's clip and then reattached. All the others went well after that oops, however, my service manual dosen't specify where on the clip they are and I don't want to pay the enterance fee$ for the jy just to go look at one.

Dude, you own a Bridgeport vertical mill? That's my wife's favorite machine. She's a machinist, and she wants one real bad! Sometimes I kinda' wish she were a seamstress. A few hundred bucks for a Singer or a Viking is easier to cough-up than 4 or 5 grand.

I went into the local autoparts shop and told the guy behind the counter if he would have a problem letting me hunt down the hose for myself, from whatever he had in-stock. After telling his manager what I was building and that it wasen't simply a matter of "what year and make model vehicle is it?" He said "ok" and lead me back to the hose-rack LOL. Celing to floor, and end to end hundreds of hoses. "Good luck" he says, "we close in 3 hrs." 25min. later "Eurika!" Looks like I found one. Got home and close enough, It worked. Try asking them folks at the parts store if you can look for your self and, Happy hunting.

They come in various lb. spring rates; 15-20-25-30-etc. we used 15lb.ers due to the fact that these aint' Chevelle doors. Mine work fine. Don't know if you could get enough leverage/thrust from the hinge area.

mas8230, Sorry I reread your question Not accuators, "popers" Ok, on the driver side lower right. On the pass side, lower left. I'll try and get some picts posted with these locations.

I've got a lot of 280 parts from the 1975 donor car laying around here including the R-200 (3.54:1) Way-way-way cheaper than Ecology bone-yard. I live in Oceanside. Almost done with this swap, come by and check us out for some ideas etc. PM me for contact info. As for collecting pre-project info; use search function, read, read, search, read, serrch, read, read, then read and read some more. You've struck a gold mine here at HybridZ.org (seriously) Dave

I have them mounted to the support beam (that runs the entire length of the door front to back) attached to the inside. Cable is only slightly curved to reduce any binding. A small curved (to match the actuator housing) piece of plate was welded to the top of the beam, attached by 2 hose-clamps. This will allow you to manipulate the actuator back and forth, for subtle adjustments.

Kinda' depends on how much water you drive through. I see you're in Ga prolly way more rain than here in SoCal. As long as that weather seal between the body-pannel and quarter is good, you won't need to worry about splashing up into the door hinge area. I have used this space for much of the wiring as I ran all (except engine) wires through the frame and needed some where to transition the loom from inside to out. But then again I don't plan on getting soaked unless buy a soapy sponge in a bucket once in a while.

Just another welcome back here to us Larry, or as we say in the islands where I'm from, "Aloha" I too have gained Z-knowledge from your previous postings. Good to hear the Mrs. still at your side. (me on 3 too) That really stinks about your automotive losses. I hope you reap huge there. Again, welcome back!

Nice!

If you're looking to calibrate it? The old boiling water and mercury bulb thermomiter or, verify with a infared/digital type. Speedo, The guys at JTR were a big help. The web is loaded with sites to caculate this. Do you want a direct or converted oil signal? I'm using the stock Datsun sending unit off the GM block (same threads) 1/4" NPT.

When I instaled the Fidanza (aluminum) flywheel on my 1994 LT-1, the manufacturer's spec was 68ft.lbs. This value was confirmed via phone call with one of the factory tech reps. Hope that helps.

Should be no prob. I've got two 12" Audiobahns back there on a 1/2" piece of bullet-proof plexiglass. Sounds good.

Try S&P Street & Performance. They have tons of LT/LS stuff. I got mine there. Thermal coating in and out, should keep things cooler too. Yes, they fit. Kind-a pricey though $$

I've got one from my 75' 280. If it will work for you, it's your's. I'm in Oceanside.

I'm using the seats out of 1995 mitsubishi eclipse AWD. I'm 5'6'' and they put me a bit higher than the stock seats. I like the increased field of view and the adjustment options are sweet!

During my install, the passenger's side upper and the driver's side lower tunnel needed some masaging.(with a sledge-hammer) Also you can add clearance by die-grinding down some of the bell-housing casting ridges on top, and on the pass-side. I've got a B&M short-throw shifter. The hole was relocated approx 3/4" further back than stock. Hope this helps Dave