emeraldlion

Pyro, that's the one I initially was going to buy but Jeggs had the barry grant and holley return style carbureted bypass diaphragm regulator for half the price. I guess I'll have to post a review after I run it.

You have a few options. I think you'd be better off buying a bypass fuel regulator and running a return line. Aeromotive universal diaphragm bypass regulator ($125), Barry grant diaphragm fuel bypass from jeggs(65is), and holly diaphragm bypass style(60). I went with the holley. I received the same advice RTZ gave you to run the same fuel pump with a return line.

Yeah, you'll want to make sure the tank is venting appropriately. If you try to take the cap off and hear a woosh then that may be your problem. I vented my tank to the filler neck and my gas cap doesn't seal well enough to allow much vacuum to be formed.

To eliminate the combo switch and have a more simple toggle. I think I've read about the setup you mentioned. I think it is sold through MSA. Right now headlights are drawing the most amps and I thought If I could wire a seperate circuit with better gauge wire and simpler switch setup it might be worth it. May not be. I'll be cleaning my combo switch today to see if it helps anything. Headlights are so dim and my wiring is crappy(like most others). Didn't want to go with a whole new harness right now(I know it's a patch and not a fix). Just would like to get it running right now.

Was hoping some of the electrical engineering guys might chip in on this. I can do electrical work but when it comes to building circuits I fall a little flat. I was wondering what it would take to eliminate the combo switch and create a dedicated headlight circuit so that you just hit a switch mounted in panel to turn on and off. Would it even be worth it? Thanks for the help.

After reading posts from individuals that have ordered various FG hoods and those that have ordered John's hood it would be the best 220 bucks you've ever spent. I haven't read about prodbod but one member bought a hood and ended up doing extensive work before the fit was acceptable.

Thanks for the heads up Tony

I would like an original pair of headlight covers and trim rings that fit well and a pair of quality fender mirrors. Both available but I have other things to spend the money on.

I had to look under Nissan instead of datsun for the make '78 model. full kit 439 or so. I suppose I'll go MSA. Different threads had said good things about the precision kit other than door seals obviously. oh well. Thanks

Am I seeing the price on the precision weatherstrip kit correctly? I went to prp.com and the weatherstrip kit is listed at $440? On the threads I have been reading I expected them to be slightly cheaper than MSA.

^ This is correct. Tissue that has received a third degree has killed the nerve endings. The surrounding tissue that did not receive full thickness burns will continue to feel pain though. I don't work on a burn unit but I would have to surmize that although debridement of said tissue would still not feel pain because nerve endings do not regenerate.

Totally opinion but I like it when the bumper relief is left in the back of the 240. Can't really tell you why, but I do

Epic build thread camera! I bookmarked your linked thread so I can follow both places. If you don't mind me asking where did you order your bearing and drum brake rebuild kit from? I feel shameful for even posting my simple build thread now. My 280 has the body of a columbian super model compared to what your 240 is starting with. I have a feeling you are going to have this whole forum following your build.

MP if you find a shop you consider reasonable let me know as I would like to keep on file for my build. I would also google the Sherman/Denison area. You'd be suprised at the talent up there. You would pay a larger towing fee but may get a break. The grayson county college has auto body classes which feed the local talent and you might be able to find someone who has more reasonable rates for a good spray as opposed to the city guys/shops. Are you planning on doing the body work yourself?

Yes brackets for the bumper. I ordered my brackets from azcar and everything went very smoothly. I am, on the other hand, going to re-fab them with some meatier metal. The metal of the originals is just a little thin for my taste. If you want something that will work, and is fairly priced check with azcarbum, you can't go wrong.

You need to buy the JTR swap manual. It gives you all the info you need to handle the easy stuff like this. Considering the overall cost of doing the swap the 40 bucks on the manual is dirt cheap considering how much it helps.

That is not a dainty girl, I really don't believe those are implants, and I wouldn't say she looks like a man. Not exactly my type either but I wouldn't be that harsh.

Yeah, I got out last night and tried some of the tips listed above. Decreased wire speed, pushed the wire instead of pulling, and then tried the multiple tacks method on the scraps and it definitely worked better than my initial attempt. I will be working on the door so really can't get to the inside very well, but will try the copper on the fender and quarter.

I'm having some mild issues with mine as well. Could someone expound on using the tig rod with the mig to assist in cooling. I can't turn the voltage below 1, have had it set around 2. I am running argon/co2 about 10-15psi. Wire speed between 2-6 doesn't seem to make much difference with .023. I've been practicing filling small holes using scrap metal around 20gauge. I started fine then around edge of hole it just burned right through, I could build the bead a little and got good penetration but it warped too much.

Don't forget the triumph gt6, love that car. I like the front end styling. Has a menacing grin look front head on, other than that I'm not a fan. I don't understand the "shooting brake" terminology though. Might someone explain?

Please disregard. I must have needed more coffee when I did my search this morning. I just found the photo I needed.

So the JTR books describes the linkage for the overdrive trans. I was just wondering if anyone had any alternatives to trying to rig in the th350 trans linkage. I don't know didn't try the right phrase but my searches didn't bring anything specific up.

Lol, Tony D mentioned waaay up top about methane-filled shite floating before flushing. Just thought I'd offer up that little tidbit. It was in no way pertinent.

Actually, toilet floaters are from fat. The higher undissolved fat content of the turd the greater the propensity to float.

Hmmm. Thanks for letting us know, I think I'll sleep better tonight