emeraldlion

Honda crx HF would be a decent candidate. Cheap, easy to work on, and kickin gas mileage. I think they're cool looking too. The si was the "performance", but I've heard stories of the hf getting 35-40 on the interstate.

I see. That would make more sense then.

I am wondering why you would go to the trouble of finding a replacement setup and not go to disks? If you are keeping drums why not just replace the tired old parts, put in a rebuilt or new wheel cylinder and upgrade your pads, and keep aluminum drums or find some if you have the iron ones?

Heck yeah. You drive a super right? Should have macpherson struts, I've seen some german supers with 2110cc engines that were built to handle on a budget, and worked.

I may have seen 65 once with a 30 mph tailwind! I must have needed a serious tune. Most of the time I was cruising 55 and still got crappy mileage. Course I was 17 and most of it was rigged.

Holy crap! Until the cheap a$$ gex engine crapped out my van only saw a best of 18 ever with the pict. Did you have the reduction boxes removed or was that with? course that gex block may have been my problem

Has anyone looked into or attempted using a chevy horseshoe shifter from an early camaro/chevelle? I've always liked these shifters and would like to incorporate it if it can be done without too much modification.

Yes but then the heart would no longer be VW/porsche. The nostalgia there is a beautiful thing. One of the sexiest looking handmade italian designed volkswagens with the refinement of years of improvement over ferdinand porsche's original VW design. IF anyone is an avid reader, the book Small Wonder is an excellent read. It's all about the history of VW.

I will probably always have one early VW, will probably never get rid of my kombi. They really are great cars, easy to work on and will take a severe beating and still run.

OKay after a moment of apparently not thinking clearly, I read that post again an had a little more insight. Thanks Tony. I wanted to tee the line so I could run the line to the filler neck also. I also was planning on running a -8 because I had read somewhere to run one size larger than your feed. But after reading some of the posts on grumpysperformance I found that -6 the entire way would support my needs. Thanks for the help.

Thanks Tony. I guess I need to recheck my tank. I have a '78 280 and I was under the impression the outlet was 7/16 the return was 5/16ths and the vent was 5/8ths with the other lines I capped are only 1/4inch. I am going to run a -6an feed line from the pump but don't want to run a smaller return line. I think I've confused myself some by reading to many posts with too much false info, trying to mix npt and an.

Sorry for pushing this but it is going to take about 80 bucks worth of an fittings to create this setup and I don't want to spring for them if someone knows that this wouldn't be appropriate for whatever reason.

You know, this really is a great post. I think( do to the nature of the addiction) most of us here "snowball" our plans and dreams for the car. It seems great to have these cars and dreams of a big block would be great, but I think there is a lot to be said for the average swap that doesn't go wild. I've been ragged a little for not going with anything bigger than my little 283 chevy, but I want to have it mostly reliable and easy driving other than balls to the wall power.

RB26 ^ Not to rain on your parade but unless the oval window was grafted into a later body(which does happen) Then your oval window had to have been earlier than "59. In 58 they went to the square window. Regardless it was a nice choice for a first car. Would love to have a oval window with semiphores and a 2210cc engine dual weber idf's.

I had a 73 ghia. It was a blast to drive. I love volkswagens because nearly everyone smiles and waves. My '62 kombi and my ghia got the most. Even with a fairly mild 1776cc engine and twin dellortos it felt fast enough to be plenty of fun, I can't imagine what the above is like.

I was planning on using the 5/8 vent line that I have running to the filler neck, putting a tee in the tube near the tank, and routing a -8 an return line to the tee to use as my return. Is there any reason that this is a bad idea? All of this is in an attempt to route new and large enough fuel lines using my stock tank without modification Should have said this is a sbc conversion carbureted with no plans to exceed 400hp

Sometimes it's the obvious that we fail to recognize until someone points out the error of our blindness.

Congrats! I can't wait for this moment with mine. Probably not for a long while still. Keep us updated.

Wow, that is some heavy wrist hardware John. I am sorry to hear about it. I've worked with some orthopedic guys here in Dallas recovering patients after surgery, it's not fun. I pray the best for your surgery tomorrow, and hope you find peace with whatever decision you make on the car.

What do you guys think of the inglese Weber dcoe induction manifolds? There is an adapter to the 4150 flange for twin dcoe's, and quad dcoe's. I think the quad would be a bit much for my little 283, but the twin 40dcoe would be neat. Lend a little hood clearance as well maybe? The adapter is only 200 bucks, and if I keep an eye for a deal on the carbs and rebuild them myself it might not be too much. Would also make for an interesting turbo system if I wanted to upgrade later.

Meh, I have to go to the LS side for this one kamikaze. Yes it is more expensive for parts. Overall I'm not so sure the swap costs any more IF you are comparing a similarly sized and powered sbc. The ls is just a better more sophisticated starting point. If you compare a solid well running sbc combo running 300 to the wheels with easily sourced parts then it will probably be similarly priced to the ls swap. (lq9 or lq4 setup). I went sbc because I like carburetors and fiddling with my car. It will never have DD status, always hobby car.

Be careful which bypass style regulator you choose. I would get one with at least -8 ports, and make sure you get a regulator that will dial down to the lower carb psi. If you talking about v8 4 barrel I think the concensus is 5.5-6 psi with the return regulator. I don't think your stock return line is going to be able to bleed off enough pressure from the efi pump. I haven't verified it but I think that is my problem right now. I have been unable to dial any less than 9 psi using 5/16 feed and return. I am using a holley 12803bp regulator. I am thinking about using 5/8 and using the vent return line on the top of my tank, but unsure if that is too large. There are several respected members that support using the stock pump, and I agree. It is a good piece of equipment that is quiet and will flow a lot of fuel at low pressures. I think my return is just creating too great of a restriction.

You got me John, but your reasoning for the fuel lock does make sense. I have to assume that if there are at least 2 decent reasons then there have to be more. It's not that I want to half-A** the job, although I did want to run less line. Potential Heat issues and avoiding vapor lock are two decent enough reasons for me though. EDIT- I would like to add I appreciate everyone being constructive and being my sounding board.

That does make sense, especially if you are running small tank, low fuel levels, or hard racing. In my application though, utilizing stock tank, street driving, keeping fuel levels above half tank, would the remaining fuel in tank not be sufficient to cool the returned fuel? Especially if the pump you are using is not operating at full capacity( efi pump operating at carb pressures with appropriate bypass regulator and large return lines offering no resistance).

Ok so friction causes pressure drop(thank you for clearing that part for me RSI), but that is why the GAUGE is at the carb and not in the rear. So that the pressure you are reading is most definitely what the carb is receiving, and you adjust your regulator so that gauge reads appropriate pressure for your carb. Grumpy's post did have one entry that said mount regulator close to carb and run return line back to tank, but as of yet no one has explained why it needs to be that way other than ease of adjustment. I'm not trying to contradict everyone but looking for a good reason as well as understanding.