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Everything posted by A to Z
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On my clutch setup, I noticed that I wasn't getting enough "push" from the clutch master cylinder. According to the FSM, there should be 8.78 inches distance from teh firewall to the front of the pedal (see pic I attached). When I measured mine it was only 6.5 inches !!! so somehow, my rod is 2 3/8 inches too short! I am assuming I can buy a thread on coupling and some additional all thread to make up the length that is not there, but I am noticing that the clutch pedal stop is screwed out keeping it from coming up any more. So, I know I can simply adjust that out to let it come up, but I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem? 1972 240Z
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07-23-2023 UPDATE. Another day in the garage on the Z car. I did some tests and found that my coil is good, ballast is good, but the modules in both Mallory Unilite distributors are bad.....I orderd a stock style breakerless distributor the other day, and it will be a simple 2 wire to the coil affair....So my time with Mallory is over. Moving on. Anyway, I also decided it was time to get the interior cleaned up. I pulled the carpets and the seats, and then vacuumed and started wiping/mopping out the interior. I took a couple pics....some just for admiring the glossy paintjob I now have. Take care.
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07-22-2023 UPDATE: Trying to get it running. Something in the ignition is wrong. I am starting to think that the reason my new Mallory distributor was found by a guy in the back of his Z car unused, is because it is bad. I have a new coil, and I wired it so that the power goes through the ballast just as mallory said.....confusing. I also went ahead an confirmed my #1 TDC, and the distributor rotor is pointing at the 11 o'clock position! Everyone is telling me that is supposed to be #4, but there it is! Supposed to be at the 9 o'clock postion accoring to the powers that be online. Any ideas? I also attached some new emblems, and mounted my K&N electric fuel pump back next to the gas tank. The bracket doesn't look good, but it works. I am running it on a separate line with a 20A in line fuse to the hidden switch inside. It will act as a theft deterrent, and I will have to turn the pump on, when I start the car. I bought a black fuel pump block off plate that matches the valve cover. Engine is DIRTY from all the bodywork and paint, but still looks pretty good. PICS.
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The reason I post my not so great work, etc. is to show guys that you CAN do it yourself, if you can live with just a driver quality. Too many times, I see the idea of "you either have to have junk or full out restored". That doesn't have to be the case. I have a perfect Mustang. It's not so great. You worry about every little thing, this is more of a carefree sports car.
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It has unique, custom flares that are a love it or hate it deal. These are universal fit, and I wanted a one off setup.....to cover the tires AND eat up the wheel well to tire gap. Cost 30 bucks on eBay. I have a backup set, and these were painted Charcoal Metallic with clear, but they need to be sanded and buffed out. If you look carefully, you can see I got them to carry on the line of the stock lip. I get the "It looks stupid" comments as well as thumbs up's, so I don't know.....I like them, they are unique, and I did it. In Japan you see custom flares, but everyone here all does them the same for the most part. If anyone reading this hates them, I can live with that....I like them and few others do as well. The paint job is a cheap paint job. It was either this or DIY with tractor paint, so this is better. I am having to do paint correction. There is dirt and dust in the paint and some areas where the clear is dull down at the bottom, so 2000 grit sandpaper, Turtle wax rubbing compound and a buffing wheel with some compound will fix that. A couple spots where it looks like the air hose touched it when it was wet, that kind of thing. He did tell me he put 3 coats of color AND clear, so that gives me some thickness to work with on sanding and buffing. I had a tad bit of overspray lines on the rubber I have gotten off. 1500 bucks and 5 day turnaround means there is a tradeoff, and ANY bodywork that isn't perfect shows right through...the clear magnify's it. So, the car is unique, one off and I will treat the imperfections as art. and Life so on. Jesus is Lord.
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07-15-2023 UPDATE: Knowing the Z was being delivered back from the painter today, I went out to the garage to keep prepping the garage and some of the items so that I could immediaelty start putting the stuff back on. I glued some rubber washers on to the ends of the bumpers where they meet the body when tightened down, and 2 rubber washers under the rear spoiler. I then added a 240Z sticker to the back. polished out my tailight lenses and then my Z car showed up. Once it was in the garage I started putting the exterior items back on and God willing will do more tomorrow. 5 day turnaround at the painters is great! Pics follow.
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07-09-2023 UPDATE. Car is sanded! I got the car all sanded and ready. Needs a bath and taping, and goes to the painter ASAP. I still have to sand and do some trimming on my flares, but progress. My plan is to have the flares painted gloss black, or a charcoal grey metallic. Such a dusty thankless job. Pics.
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07-08-2023 UPDATE: Sanding continues. I have it about 80-90% done now. I decided to try the Caramel Wheel I got, it actually takes the side stripes off better than wire wheel! I have been going panel by panel with my orbital sander, first I use 80 grit on it to get it all roughed up, then 320 to smooth it out. I work on that panel until ready to go, then move to the next. Using A LOT of 320 grit sanding discs! I am glad I bought a bunch of them online. VERY dusty, but not real hard. Some panels took awhile, as I kept at them until they were done, then moved on as I said. Here are a few pics. :)
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07-02-2023 UPDATE: I spent a few hours in the garage......I went ahead and mounted up the K&N Electric Fuel Pump and Filter I had, and I rigged it up and tested it, pushes plenty of fuel. Engine still won't start....I fiddled with it a bit, figured out it was electic, and decided to give it some thought, and pressed forward on body prep. I removed the flares, the front bumper, front blinkers, and then cut strips of metal out and then bonded them to the inside of the fenders where the side parking lamps holes were. I also covered the antenna hole. Once dried, I will use all metal filler and then Glaze with hardener to block sand them smooth. PICS:
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07-01-2023 UPDATE: I decided to do a little engine work first, by swapping out my old distributor for a new, in box one I bought from a guy online. I also connected up the radiator hose and poured the coolant back in. I went to start, and everything spins over great, but no fuel to the fuel filter.....so the electric fuel pump I bought will be going on. I will do a quick wireup and bypass to see if that fixes it. So, at that point, I closed the hood and went back to sanding. After sanding the hood and hatch, I turned my attention to the roof sides at the rain gutters. I was able to get the left (driver's) side done, and the right side is about 75% there. I tried the wire wheel attachment on the side stickers, and it 50% removes them, 50% smears them. But after that and then using the orbital sander and 80 grit sandpaper, it takes them all off and down to smooth metal. So, forward progress on getting her ready to go to the painter's. PICS: