TheMission

I want that bracket! I'm interested in the bracket setup as well! Your measurements and drawings would help a bit rather than having to redo all of that when getting hands on the maxima brackets. It seems like a much better option to run the two parallel systems for hydraulic rear brakes to get around that issue. I may end up taking on this project this summer as well, it's just the machining of the brackets that gets me down due to cost. I wish we could have found interest and pitched in with you to reduce cost for us all to have the dual caliper rear disks.

Lots of work, but depending on handle, it could be cool. I'd just add actuators and an alarm or remote lock system. I run lock actuators and stock handles with mine and did away with the key holes. If I have a failure, I still have my hatch in a worst case scenario to get into the car.

Coilovers a finally on... I have a bit of space to go lower in the back, but running out of adjustability. I'm definately much happier with the car's stance. Here's a couple crappy pics in the garage, as it was hailing outside all day. Still love the way the engine sits in the bay.

They were stock, but I don't think that even lowering springs would do the trick. I think only sectioning the struts or running coilovers gets the car low enough for me. I did get the fronts finished today, but the back I still need to do, as it's just taking longer than I expected... Here's a pic of the fronts-

Today I hopefully have that problem nixed. Had a local guy come out and weld the top camber plates on and got the tubes welded to the suspension components, so tomorrow I'll touch up everything and hopefully have some pics of the project. I won't be back on the road for a bit, but at least getting the c/os installed and will be done with the biggest needed change. I'd like to make some local events this year and this'll touch up one of the things I really disliked about the car, it sitting way too high.

Here's a great big pic of the S12+8 calipers with the right pad setup for reference... I'd check the pads, plus check the caliper to see if it even says s12 on the side anywhere. If you need new pads, I just look for 1983 toyota pickup 4wd and they come right up.

After 10 years and multiple builds I know one thing. Good paint is hard to do. I have a painter friend and I never even try anymore.

I've begun deconstruction... The Front Suspension is totally off and the rear is down to the spindle pin and folded out. I have to cut the tops to weld in the new plates and weld the tubes onto my cut suspension pieces and I'm good to go. I disassembled my exhaust manifold and am throwing on a Disco Potato to fix the old turbo issues. Next week all the parts should be in for the new turbo, 4x4 calipers and rotors, as well as finishing up cutting the tops out and then finding me a decent welding hookup to get them welded in. This summer I'm switching to a Series II ECU, and going MAP, so I'll be able to throw in some injectors, turn up the boost and hopefully get to 300 or so whp and I'll be plenty happy with the ride. The only later things are control arms and lsd swap, but they'll be next year probably.

They ended up going for 571... dang.

I use the PC680 too and love it... In my old build I had a yellow top, due to stereo gear and it was insanely heavy. I have the 680 rear mounted under my hatch area and it's so light and small... works great, but I do run a small displacement engine and no significant electronics.

High HP cars, Low Tact People. Not a proud Z moment for me, as they came off rather lamely to me. That whole night of shows was disappointing, especially the hour of Kent Police chasing around imports, as they stated that I must be looking for a street race, as I have a drift charm hanging off the back of my Z. Apparently if you have a drift charm, they can tell that you are a street racer.

Air Bags - Aftermarket, no way - so much technology is the sensor and timing system to even get close to doing a DIY on that. Seats and Harnesses are an idea, but if you flip wearing a harness, you really want to have a roll bar over you, as the harness typically won't let your body lean forward and you could damage your neck or bad quite easily as a result if the roof crushes in on you. Then, if you have a roll bar/cage, then you really want to be wearing a helmet anyways to protect your soft head against hard bars. Upgrading your brakes, tires, and suspension with modern alternatives and getting them set up right, combined with safe and aware driving skills is pretty much your best option driving something initially made in the 70s. No matter what, if you get T-Boned hard, or hit Head on in a Z, it's not going to turn out a fourth as good as any modern car. This solely due to the massive improvements in construction technology, materials, testing, and regulatory guidelines any car made nowadays has to have. Crumple Zones, Air Bags, Cross Beams, and on and on. You can really only make small steps toward increased safety in the Z.

I'm in the same boat with upgrading my rear diff to handle more power, but decided that it wasn't technically too difficult to drop it and weld it up later, so I left it and will let the open diff go until I want more grip and just do the work later. I want the R180 from the subaru for one reason- Bolts right in. With the Axles, it's pretty much plug and play, as well as running easy and available options for ratios and types of lsds I could run a R200, but then I need the mustache bar and other mounts as well as probably wanting to upgrade the axles anyways.... It'd be cheaper I guess, but new axles and a "newer" lsd seem like a better option if I want to run something other than a welded diff.

Here's a link to one option for flared out fenders/quarters for the Z. I know there are others out there as well, but ZCC is close by to me and I see his stuff around more. http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php?ref=azcarbum&dt=73726

I'm glad you found us over here... It's actually part of the forum rules for us to not attack the "purist" way or all the other styles of modifications/engines, OEM, non-OEM, domestic parts/import parts/JDM only.... I love it and I'm sure you'll find it refreshing. It's a pity that you're around the world from us in the states, as you work looks spectacular and your offerings are what a lot of us really are looking for. There are a decent number of guys who make parts, but nothing on the scale you guys are doing and with the variety of really nice pieces.

I agree with Blu as well - If this class is killing you and the curriculum/staff is the primary issue you are facing, by all means take the same transferable class at a local community college. There are more options and may have different curriculum and more helpful teaching staff. I get what that question is asking, but it doesn't fall under the traditional definition of a couple as their is no rotation involved. It's essentially three "ropes" pulling on each other, where y axis "rope" and x axis "rope" are pulling with their stated force at a 90 degree angle and you need to figure out what angle and force the rope C is pulling at so where the "ropes" are connected remains stationary. Future work will definitely bring more of these issues and you may generally not get the option of changing people/problems, so it may be best to double down and embrace the insanity, as life outside of the education world is rarely as flexible. I'd also invest relation-ally in possible tutoring/partnering with someone who is doing better, as it'll reduce your homework time significantly and help you over the hurdles. Rarely should we take on things alone, as even this forum shows us that with Zs, support and wisdom/knowledge of others gets us much further than what we can on our own.

I agree with Six_Shooter... IF your going for straightline drags, that amount of power with a tubed rear and such will be fine, but for a street car, it's way too much to control. You are going to want to go ls1 direction for huge power, but there are a ton of different options for less power and great balance, or less power, and great fuel economy or weight. You can get 350hp out of my setup without too much trouble and be pretty well balanced and light doing it and have an insanely fast Z. I wouldn't want 500 hp under me in a Z... I'm stopping at 325whp and that's already scary.

Just like many, my builds almost stop completely for winter. Time to get back going! Here's what she looks like now- I know need to uncover her and take off the wheels and suspension to install the coil overs and Toyota calipers. This summer I plan on engine upgrades, but it'll be nice to get it dropped a bit as it looks wacky all lifted up. My stock turbo is leaking oil, so it has to go. I really want to do the whole big deal with a disco potato, ems, and injectors, but I want to do it right and it looks like 3k to get there. In the next few weeks I should get some progress and post up updates.

The "Vortex Generators" are available online. - http://www.vortekz.com/ I just needed something to break up the blue on the roof and I like the look... I'll run the ZCC spoiler eventually, but they'll probably never do anything but look nifty. I've heard/seen guys running the MAF after the FMIC, but I'll switch to MAP when I upgrade the turbo, injectors, and ECU next year, so I didn't bother with having it anywhere else but the stock location after the intake filter and before the turbo, as when I do that, I just kill the whole intake pipe setup and run a filter straight to the turbo. I won't need the Recirc BOV either, so I'l run it open.

Right now, stock 180... but that's next year on the plate... I'm planning the subie sti r180 with the adapters. I think that's the best solution I've seen. Next year/winter plan is brakes, front and rear arms, rear diff and cvs, and engine upgrades. Also the ZCC spoiler. I solely wanted to get it on the road and troubleshot this year in more stock trim, then hit the mechanicals and such when I get the bugs worked out. I've already had to tweak a few things (Move the stock o2 sensor location because there just wasn't enough firewall clearance when the engine torqued, and knock part of the firewall back 1/2 inch to give clearance for the turbo elbow to not vibrate against it.

Well, It's roadworthy and driving around a bit. Before anyone comments, yes, it's as high as a monster truck and the coilovers are sitting in the garage to fix that, but I need to have the plates tig welded in, so they are going to have to wait a bit till I can arrange that setup. The inner door cards are needing a bit of modification as well, so I will install them later. Otherwise it's just tint and a few little things like front blinkers and I'll be good to go. I took some pictures in an industrial park today just to show what she looks like now. Enjoy-

The Good, The Bad, The Ugly The Bad - I didn't get my rear Flares on yet... I ran out of time last night and now can't work on that aspect till I get the car running... which brings me to the ugly. The Ugly - The nuts holding the turbo to the manifold all decided to back out and it ended up separating my turbo from the manifold by like an inch.... oops, my bad. I have locking plates being shipped today, which I should have used in the first place. When taking apart pieces of that section (which I'll finish tomorrow) I noticed oil on the air inlet/outlet side of the turbo, which aint good, so I'll look at that as well now that I have to take that whole side off and apart. The Good though is that I got the exhaust on and it's nifty. Before my turbo snafu I was able to drive around a bit and that was plain fun. The coilovers are here and now I just need to get it back running to move forward on the other things. Here's some nifty pics that show an almost completed car (Way, Way too high without the coilovers and missing the rear flares)

Wheels arrived! Tomorrow is more little things to get ready for exhaust/work next week while I'm off work.

I have some updates from Today's work. I have the door handles and door window frames in now. The rear terminals are on and good. Also got the dovetails on the doors and the side window's framed up. I couldn't get them in without help pushing from the outside. I fitted the front valance, but it's only clamped on really. Here's pics of what it looks like now... which is more "carlike" The front bumper will go on when I get the valance figured out.

No proof, but I'll cast my vote in the no way it'd make a difference without tubing camp for certain. The air would need to be directed specifically to them to allow any measurable effect.