RebekahsZ

I just found this thread and I have learned so much about cage fitment and even space management in a shop (I'm trying to design a shop for myself to put on a very small piece of property). So totally subscribed! Absolutely incredible project. A couple things. I ran my lines inside the transmission tunnel, but if I ever build another car, I will not do that again. There's just not much room up there and driveshafts break (I've broken one and tweaked two others). Also, if there is a problem with the line, you gotta pull your engine/trans/diff. I'm sure you've dealt with it before, but that has just been my experience on the only build I've ever done. Next time, I will either run the lines thru the interior (yeah, I know they can break there too), or along the "frame rail." Your car is awesome, I'm about to go thru the whole thread and all the pictures. Also, think about using a metal battery box if you ever want to do any NHRA stuff. I bet you know your rulebook better than I do, but I think a metal box will satisfy everybody. I have a plastic box to satisfy SCCA, but now that I am adding NHRA racing, I have to re-do it. I get tired of re-doing things (maybe I should reconsider this hobby). LOVE your hydraulic ebrake bracket to the tunnel. But, be advised, you will probably bend that handle within a few pulls-that flat aluminum is extremely soft. I had a similar set up and bent it on the second try of the system. Can you spend some time talking about the Wilwood calipers that have a mechanical parking brake? Please PM the details and part numbers. I can't tell (I've only gone thru 275 of your 635 pictures), but I wonder how large of a wheel is required to clear the mechanical part of the assembly? I have AZC wilwoods on my car and I need to squeeze 15" wheels on my car for drag racing. I'm wondering if I could switch to that caliper and have the best of both worlds.

Ordering parts is my crack. Returning them cause my plan doesn't work is my Debbie downer. Except for the p-brake, the AZC brakes truly bolt on. Be sure to check front LCA to rotor clearance on and off the jack stands before you roll the car. And put at least some torque on the stub axle retention nut before you install rear calipers. Bleeding fronts is a pain because the bleeder is not at the top of the cylinder at the angle they mount. Bleeding rear is a dream. The hardware is so nice, it was the first time I have ever enjoyed doing brake work.

All participants in this thread should be required to wear a smoking jacket, sport an ascott and mumble in a British accent. Tanner Foust could drop in every once in a while to make us feel legit. We could all use words like "bugger", "bloody" and "blymie." Them long tubes sure are a bugger to put on! Blymie, they make me car faster! They look bloody good when I lay under me car, Old Chap! Then we get some idiot movie stars to trash our cars around a track and see who is fastest. We could film it and make a bundle.

Hey, Adam. If you know of anybody with a spare T56, give WarlordZ a call?

What about putting an airbag on each control arm, somehow external to the strut? I personally don't mind the concept of "custom" Z-cars, and I think the airbag z is awesome. But call it what it is-a fun custom. As I try to build and maintain a z that does everything well, I am finding that it is much easier to build cars for specific purposes, ie. custom, drag, autocross, road race and the hardest one: something my wife will ride in. In order to have a car that jams thru corners, it would have to be a different car than one that lays the pans on the ground. I'll take one of each! Trailer queens that park over mirrors at shows are nothing new; they are-what they are.

I think we can jam a knee bar between the stereo and the heater controls (just above the trans tunnel), but my controls aren't installed yet, so I don't know for sure. I have seen a few ITS cars with the knee bar located there. May depend on how deep your stereo is. Another option is across in front of the gauges, and a third is just above the dash board, but I've never removed my dash-does it have to come up and out, or do you pull it straight forward and out?

Can we drop this line of conversation before the moderators block this thread altogether?

After you install the spoiler, try installing a modern, fuel injected power plant. Switching to LS power solved all my hatch fume problems. And the tailpipe is still in the same place.

I've had a good experience with ZForce Productions. On my first order, there was a period without communications. But, on my second order, I had great customer support from Justin. The fit was perfect-no sanding required.

Pictures??

Yes, mightyMax, you are correct. My roll bar builder said he would not build a full cage without a knee bar. But, as Sunny stated correctly, NHRA doesn't require them up to 8.50. I really do think NHRA makes some safety concessions in order to keep the sport accessible to as many folks as possible. I think no knee bar is a concession.

Thanks guys. Want to stay simple, no Aerocatch for me. At least for now, just getting the holes drilled in the right place thru my megadollars carbon hood will be good enough for me. Any pointers for putting the holes in the right places willingly accepted- play-dough (ala plasti-guage) is the plan for now. PLATA-why is it that all the cool hybrids start as piss yellow z-cars. Under 5 different colors, you will find that my car, too, is piss yellow. This is Saturday morning's project.

Installed shorter velocity stacks to raise the rpm of my peak power-dyno session pending . Getting used to those huge flares. Just got word that MSA regular flares are on back order 3-5 weeks. Will call tomorrow to confirm that . Tapping my foot awaiting parts.....

Adding 4 hood pins to my 240z for 3 reasons: 1) I don't want to ever deal with a broken hood release cable again, and 2) my sanctioning body requires them 3) the front of my hood rises and shakes against hinges at speeds over 100mph (it's kind of scary). I've ordered 2 pair of self-retaining hood pins from speedwaymotors.com I'm soliciting advice for a location for the front 2 pins. Any problem with me putting them thru the webbing at the sides of the radiator support?

All a lawsuit would do is put some money in a lawyer's pocket and waste a bunch of good people's time. Get over it - your car is a modified, clapped-out, 40 year old car just like mine is. Go buy another one and get back to having fun. You attitude regarding considering a lawsuit reminds me of a 85 year old son who blames the doctor when his 105 year old mother dies after hip surgery. Life ain't "fair." Just ask our president. Maybe he'll give you a new car to go with a free phone and a job making $30,000 for putting Pepsi in a cup 3 hours a day.

Yeah, I like those seats, but I just junked a set of seats of the same design. For the sanctioning body I am building for, I must have a metal seat. A fabric seat over a metal frame wont do.

I haven't given up yet. I ordered a 15" seat which is 2.5" narrower at the shoulder. But, they are on back order everywhere. Jegs estimated ship date just changed from 1/25/14 to 2/15/14. Perhaps a skinny seat will motivate me to lose those 30# that I need to lose. Ok, 35#. I had a good chat with heavy85. He fitted 17" seats in by shoving them against the tyranny tunnel. I really want to be centered behind the steering wheel. Meanwhile I wait.

Looks incredible. I wouldn't have guessed it was the same car. Very time consuming and it looks great.

With all these central TN swaps going on at the same time, we are going to need to set up an East vs West track day at Hallet or something. And we'll be whooping that ask!

Was your suspension bottoming out and hammering the car? Send us a picture of your car in side profile so we can see if it is a low-rider.

I think Sunny Z is your man for advice internal to the tranny. I don't think the size of the line matters. I think it only matters what happens at each end. I have a couple slave cylinder shims if you decide you need them.

The 26X10 tires hang out the side about an inch and a half. You have to run a stock ride-height and just let them hang out. The rear control arms are an old set of Modern Motorsports. I'm tired of working on suspension-I'm gonna make what I have work.

Maybe I will make a decision on this VLSD I have laying around by then. (don't know why I can't get my keyboard off italics).

26x10x15 Mickey Thompson ET Drag on a 15x8 Draglite. Probably a 4.5" back spacing wheel.

PLATA, you look good in that checkered pants suit. BTW, that's not a model, that's Jimmy Buffet-get me an autograph! Knuckleduster - send that lady to my clinic for contacts, she needs a good exam.