RebekahsZ

There is a T5 in the classifieds forum today.

No, I can't tell, but why does it matter? Does it work? Honestly, all of the master cylinders work fine-all this mumbo jumbo you read about what size to use is just so much bench racing BS. You can just get a new or rebuilt one pretty cheaply if it is shot, just know that rebuilts are hit or miss and may only last a few years. But, the NEW ones aren't always any better. PM me if you are having any trouble and want help.

I'm loving every dark gray z-car that I see. Looks great with some CF accent pieces.

I don't know, but I can help you speculate and perhaps you can figure it out by inspection. I've been dragging an LS2/T56/240z setup with 435# tq for 2 years, and (I shouldn't jinx myself), nothing has broken yet. I dump the clutch at 4000rpm when I launch. I have burned up a clutch by trying to be gentle, so I since have determined to dump the clutch and let the tires do their job and so far, so good. I have Z31T halfshafts which use a different style of CV joint from what I see in your photos (I went to your link, too). I'm running 250# springs. I have been constantly researching other folks on this site since I started my build in order to try to avoid breaking and here is what I've found. Bias ply slicks are a good plan as driveline shock absorbers-you are running autocross/roadrace tires that have SUPER stiff, super thick sidewalls-as tires go they are pretty heavy and they are really more for lateral traction as opposed to linear traction. They are the polar opposite of the bias ply slick which is super light, has super thin and flexible sidewalls, and I run them at 15-20 psi to make them even more flexible and shock absorbing. I can fry my R6s or A6s at will, on any surface, you need to get rid of them until autocross day when you are gonna do some cornering. With my slicks, I have to be in water to spin them. I have had wheel hop twice-once in the burnout box and once at an autocross on street tires-and I got off it just as soon as I realized what was happening. I think the trick to avoiding wheel hop is to avoid spinning. At your power level, you should be fine with 8.5-9 inch slicks, but if you can fit them, I'd go to 10" slicks and be done with it. It takes a little getting used to, driving 100+mph with airbags for rear tires, because the car kind of swims down the track, but I think it is worth it for me to be able to punch it with impunity. jnjdragracing (second fastest ET on the forum) just snapped BOTH his axles after years of reliability with bias ply slicks-what changed? It was his first time running drag radials-the very first run. With bias ply slicks and an R200, he carries both front wheels half way down the track. Your 60' times kind of suck (sorry to hit you when you are down), you have got to be spinning like crazy-if you have 400# of torque, you ought to be 60'-ing in the 1.5s or perhaps 1.6s. I'm running 1.5s consistently with an occasional high 1.4, but I can't cut a good light to save my life so I can't take credit for being any kind of driver! Your 60' times are what I would expect from a stock L24 with slicks, so something isn't right, right off the line-you aren't getting that power down. Check your ride height-if you start too low, the axles are at a severe angle both at the hub and at the diff. If at all possible, you want to start with the car up a bit, then to squat to straight under power. Check your CV spline engagement-SunnyZ had a problem with his axle being too short and it jumped right out of the outer CV. I would think that 400# springs would keep you from squatting too far. Shoot some video of your car and watch for bouncing of the tail, squatting of the rear and wheel spin. If there is not enough rebound dampening, that could contribute to your wheelhop, though I really think just not spinning via slicks will pretty well manage that. My tires "chirp" on gear changes (I do lift off throttle for shifts), but they don't spin or hop. Check that sway bar to ensure that it absolutely couldn't have hit the axle-that force could have translated thru the axle to the diff and broken the cover. Check torque on all your driveline hardware-is it possible that one of the studs that connect the diff cover to the mustache could have loosened up, then caused a crack in the cover that propogated further. I gave up my sway bar just to be sure it doesn't smack the axles-you can live without it. Hope that helps-I hope I haven't jinxed myself for this weekend by opening my trap. I'm gonna be working on my shock settings specifically using video to help me "see" the effects of the individual changes. I'm hoping to get 20 or more passes Saturday night, hot lapping as traffic will allow.

With the way we have to grind down the poly bushing on the RTmount to conform to the snout of the diff, it really weakens the poly. I have torn the bolt out thru the poly such that it rubs on the case of the diff metal to metal. I think I have torn the second one, but it is still restraining the diff fine, I think I hear the metal to metal click. I'm hoping it will hold together till winter when I hope to modify the rt mount to use some other bushing. I'm dropping the clutch at 4000 with slicks.

Gonna be SICK!

Plan on having it for a while. Make a place to work on it. One major project a year to be done in winter time. Just try to keep it running in the summer. One major event a year. Try not to bite off too much at a time so you don't get frustrated and burned out.

I understand your pain (as much as I can)-you are probably the wisest amoung us. Ive thought about selling mine many times-theres tape residue in the back window from the last time ten years ago-didnt get a single offer at any price. Im back in love, but my finances have improved and that has taken a lot of pressure off of the brittle threesome that includes my wife, my car and me. Plus, age has chilled me out a good bit. Drag racing and autocrossing have also provided more inexpensive racing venues close to home and both venues are easier on the car than road racing. But, now that you have resolved the issue in your mind, just sell it as she sits. Don't put one more tool to it. Maybe one of us can afford to get a head start with our dreams. Be sure to put it on eBay with a big reserve and figure out how you can transport it internationally. But don't try to fix it-that will just add to your anguish. Dont part it out-that is the same thing. The next owner might want to put an RB or some other powertrain in it.

Put a v8 in it and be happy.

Had rotors re-turned thinking maybe the shop used too fast of a cutting speed=same, rough rotors. Ordered new rotors, all four rotors that came on were wrong. Found a set of old front rotors in a box at home. Took them and the rears to a friend who has a brake lathe. Replaced a front hub, replaced two wheel studs ( rough threads even when new). Gotta replace dust seals on calipers (stiff and cracking-smell like burned rubber). Gotta have car ready for drags on 7/13 for more grudge racing and test and tune. Sent a wheel to AZC to test fit on Dave's mock-up to ensure good firmest before ordering the AZC kit for my first winter project.

I paid my man $200. I pay him what he asks. He had somebody pressure test it and solder over his welds too looks totally stock (welds are on top).

I recommend finding someone who will cut tank in half, clean it and re-weld it. I cleaned mine three different times and still had plugging of my filter and line. Just too many hidie places in there to get it clean working thru the little access holes. Super trouble free since I bit the bullet. DO NOT sand blast it!

Speedway motors has kits for this stuff and their prices are usually pretty good.

Wow! Super clean.

Only thing worse than one aggravating car is two aggravating cars. Feeling your pain, just went out to install new rotors (replacements came this week) and found that rears are wrong diameter and fronts are for 280z when I have 240z hubs. None of the replacement parts fit. Good thing I keep my guns and bullets stored in separate places.

If you haven't adjusted that big adjustment screw, I would move that down the list and check bushings first like the others suggest. Greasing is quick and easy if equipped with a zerk(not all racks are greasesble).

I bought my fronts ten-fifteen years ago from somebody out of business and I don't have the part numbers to try to find a replacement (one of them has lost all rebound dampening). The rears I got from Betamotorsports two or three years ago. After brakes and a cage, I'm gonna pony up for some double adjustable Konis. Nitrous keeps getting pushed back down the wish list.

I feel ya-I've chased every excuse to avoid going out to tear down my suspension to tighten a gland nut AGAIN! This forum helps me procrastinate and I can only offer emotional support for whatever you do. I hope you win the lottery this week and ship the car to MTI to have Matt's crew keep it up for you and you can just fly in in your Lear Jet, take off your ascot and buckle in. (Matt is gonna love that description of his operation)! Being builder AND driver is a lot to ask of yourself. I'm trying to be builder in the winter and driver in the summer. I just wish you could get a break.

At that price, think about shipping an open diff to johnc for his LSD unit. I think he performs the same service for about the same price. I'm so tired of CLSD chatter that I'm eager to try a helical.

SunnyZ-my main priority at the next night at the track is to play with different shock settings on my Illuminas. I'm gonna start with the fronts on 1 to allow as little rebound dampening as possible. Rears will be on 1 for first run, then I'm gonna go to 5 in back then work back down. I had some bouncing in back with my rear shocks on 2. My 60' times were poor and I noticed on video that my rear is bouncing and I'm breaking traction on shifts. Gonna try to video document since it all happens too fast for my eye to catch it. Gonna paint a stripe on my sidewall to monitor spin.

Thoughts: The race guys suggest some toe out-I like a little toe-in to avoid wandering and darting on the street or strip. Does it pull at the same intersection-with wider tires, my car pulls on rutted surfaces-a lot. Put my skinny front tires on and that gets lots better. I tried to get the slack out of my rack once by tightening the big adjustment screw and it kind of acted like you are describing. Try backing that screw off just a touch. I now accept a little bit of play in the rack and all is cool. Have you greased the rack? Lack of grease?

Oh, man! Mike, you might do really well on that car to Rocky Auto on the international market (I imagine only a sultan or sheik could afford it), but I'd hate to see you eat all your hard work. Please, please reconsider. If I had that car, I would just de-tune it and race it with a more conservative setup. Put a $1000 junkyard LS in it bone stock (don't even pull the heads) with no control systems on it and wear it out. It is almost like you've built it so well that all your super sophisticated upgrades are just fighting you. I'd love to have that chassis, but I would hate to have to maintain all the supporting assemblies: if you had a $1000 engine, could you live even without a dry sump system (I don't know)? I'm not anywhere near your level, but my motor still has the same spark plugs it had from the junkyard! And I'm having a ball. Dopey rednecks have a lot of fun with our cobbled up cheap shi...consider joining the redneck club rather than pulling the plug.

Have somebody push in your clutch or brake pedal while you watch the firewall from under the hood side of the firewall-it moves a lot. Pretty flimsy right there. Plus, are you ready to totally reconfigure your master cylinder locations? That guy has done that-where's his booster? It's a big project with little reward. I have done a bunch of "upgrades" on my car that wound up being a waste of time-as I get older and busier, I'm TRYING to limit that sort of thing.

Put up or shut up, and never stop having fun; the first post after a dyno chart should be a timeslip! Eager to see another turbo build, but don't get stuck in the garage while the weather is nice and the tracks are open. How many weeks we got before the first snow, SunnyZ?

Congrats, you luck dog! Just pull the rear cover off - viscous looks very different internally. Viscous is heavier than a CLSD. Don't know how they "perform" any differently. I have been frustrated ted by my inability to get my CLSD to stop chattering and banging, so a VLSD may be a plus, especially for a street car. If you drag race your car, 3.90 is good for 1/4-mile, but kind of sucks for 1/8-mile. For 1/8-mile you would be better off with 3.54.