RebekahsZ

If you are short on money and long on time-pull it yourself. If you are long on money and short on time, pay $50 to have them pull it. I recommend that you get the driveshaft (there are a bunch of different rear flanges out there). The trouble with pulling these parts is: you can't get a 14mm socket on the axle bolts or the driveshaft bolts, so if they are rusty, you may round them off with an open-end wrench and waste a bunch of time cussing before you figure out how to cut them off. But, the axle nuts and bolts are no longer available thru Nissan, so try not to break them. A dremel tool works to cut them if you have access to electricity, but save them if you can. The mustache bar drops straight down. I would drop the uprights to make removal easier, but you don't need to take that part home. The mustache bar goes behind the uprights on a R200 and in front of the uprights on a R180 (or vice versa), so just drop the uprights-it is just 4 bolts. You may need a piece of wood and a deadblow hammer if there is any rust between any of the axle or driveshaft flanges.. Finally, be careful how you support the car. I once had my front jackstands located behind the engine. When I dropped my rear suspension, the loss of weight at the back of the car and the poor placement of the jackstands allowed the front of the car to drop and the rear to lift-I almost killed myself, so position your jackstands to account for the loss of weight on the back of the car. Grab any swaybars while you are out there, too. Rusted hardware is your enemy. The prices you list are fair.

Lets hope it doesnt sound like hiss and tick,tick,tick! Just picked up from welder for what I hope is the last welding on the main system. Will re-fit tonight and shoot a video if everything lines up. It seems to move so much on welding that I've had to make lots of adjustments even whey I thought all was well. Hoping to DRIVE it to a fabricator to have an extra muffler hangar welded in the area of the muffler tomorrow after work. Then I'm sending the headers to Nitro Plate to get shiney coating. They say it is a 2-week turn-around, so look for threads on my suspension mods that week while waiting on headers to return. Drag racing exhaust cutouts will have to wait until I get the first autocross behind me. Everybody cross your fingers that all these v-bands seal.

Too late but I'm gonna clean up all that I can reach. Will try to be better on cutout portion since that is intended to be my power mode.

Lets try to put it together! Would need to do a breakfast get together on a Saturday so I can get up there and back before my family realizes I'm gone!

EastTNZ-come on down to Lawrenceburg/Hwy43 Dragway when you get it done!

Come down to Florence (about 2 hours away) and see my car. Search my content.

Actually, I feel very much the idiot for being so self-righteous about having to have a Burns Stainless merge collector and mandrel bends (as if this system has any scavaging tendencies-hardeehar). There's probably enough drop-thru at everyone of these junctions to render the system super inefficient. I'd probably be ahead performance-wise to have had the pinch-down style bends from the muffler shop at the trade off for fewer welds. I have to keep in perspective that the reason why I'm being to persnickity about fit is to gain ground clearance and easy servicing of the system. My old L24 single exhaust system was a real ground-scraper. This should be better, but it is truly just exhaust ROUTING, and not a performance-oriented system anymore. The tubing for the cutout system arrived today, so hopefully I can finish the main system this week and start on the fender-exits this weekend.

I don't think the OP is subscribed to this thread anymore....anybody.....Bueler?

One bbbbbillion and counting! I got up at 6 and had my latest "adjustment" to the welder by 7 and got to work at 8. Gonna make another "final" adjustment tonight and take it to welder in the morning. Honestly, it has been something that I have been kind of constantly fiddling with. I still have lots to do before it is finished. I'm really missing my open exhaust right off the headers.

Most of us are happy with the 3.54. For 1/8 mile and quarter with 26" slicks. 3.36 would be for Bonneville. We are lugging around on the street on 6th gear.

The final piece seems to be the hardest to get right. I'm taking the last piece on the passenger side y-pipe to an exhaust shop to get expanded to create a slip joint then perhaps I can finish this up. Some pics are included of my mounting system. The high-temp silicone grommets use a 3/8" bolt. But, some of the factory Datsun mount bolts are 8mm (same as 5/16"), so I made a sleeve out of 3/8" metal fuel hose-perfect!

Broke the v-band bolt on the 3" clamp for the muffler. I didn't torque it hard at all. I think the nut just galled (gauled?) onto the bolt then it took just a little elbow grease to brake the bolt off. I'm anti-seizing them all now. And why the heck are these bolts just a little too short to let me keep the nut on? I have to remove (and drop) the nut everytime I remove the v-band! A 1/4" longer and I'd just have to loosen it.

That's incredible! Hope your fingers didn't stick to the metal in the cold. I would never get that back together correctly.

Remington Model 870...

I have stock fronts and maxima rears. With proportion valve completely open the rears are still too weak to be "balanced."

I'm with 1tuffz. I have the maxima package and it has a great emergency brake function, but it is no better in stopping power than the stock drums-maybe worse. Disc brakes ARE, however, eaiser to work on, so I have enjoyed how easy it is to remove a caliper when I tear down my rearend for coil spring swapping and stuff like that. Unfortunately, the only rear discs that seem to work worth a flip are the Silvermine kit, but they require larger wheels than 15" and I've got several sets of 15" that I use and I don't want to replace them all (daily driver tires, drag wheels, autocross tires). As usual, Nissan did a pretty good job designing the brake system that they put into production 40 years ago.

I like your "spot welds" with hose clamps! With all the drip-thru of welding rod, I'm afraid my exhaust system is really more "exhaust routing" than any kind of performance system. I'm gonna try to cleanout the inside of the tubes as I go on the fender cutout section of my system so perhaps it won't be more restrictive than a squash-type tubing bender.

That would be awesome for up to 2.5" and one could use it for their coil-over convestion too! Can you use it in the middle of a 90-degree bend to make a little pie-cut section? That's where I really have trouble keeping it straight....

You are gonna LOVE keeping those clean! Stock up on tooth brushes.

Have you considered some taller gears in the diff? Whatcha got there now? If you go T56, expect more axle breakage. Also, I'm not in love with my second gear ratio in my 2006 GTO tranny: second gear lasts only a second. I wish the jump from first to second was a little farther. I'm just in and out of second in a flash. Maybe the ratio spread is better in the camaroT56. I would also suggest using an LT-1 T56 in order to get the hydraulics outside the dusty bellhousing. I think you just have to change the input shaft to an LS1 style input shaft. But, if you like dragging stay auto.

Not finished yet, but I thought I'd share a few things I've learned building my exhaust. Marking tubing: cutting a straight line can be difficult. Wrapping tape around the tube doesn't work (tape stretched). A piece of old seatbelt works great. For cuts in the middle of a bend: I tie a piece of string really tight with a surgeons knot. A string wants to find the shortest path between two points. You still may need to adjust the string a bit by eye before marking with a sharpie. Cutting tubing: I tried using both a band saw and miter saw but had a hard time holding the piece firmly. A 10-onch fiber blade on a chop saw jas flex and wanders more than i would have expected. A band saw blade has a "burr" where the blade is welded together-that but likes to yank the piece out of your grip and destroy your piece. My best results have been obtained by putting the tube in a vice and cutting with a thin fiber cutoff wheel on a cutoff saw or angle grinder. Rotate the piece as you go to follow the line marked with a sharpie.

Still slogging away with the exhaust welding-this is NOT as easy as it looks. Re-doing passenger side forward of the y-pipe due to poor fitment. This system is 50% stainless tubing and 50% welding rod! Waiting for more tubing to arrive to get cutouts done. Tore down one Doug's Headers cutout to remove electric motor so I don't burn it up welding-cool, simple setup!

Welcome to the fun and thanks for sharing your video! Please take it well, but here are a few driving pointers: Get into 2nd gear quicker and leave it there-you should be able to go as slow as 10mph and up to 60mph in 2nd gear. Quit putting your hand inside the steering wheel-keep it on the outside with your palm down, and don't hand-over-hand on tight corners-your hands should never cross. Once you are in 2nd gear and dont need to clutch, use your left foot on the brake and your right foot on the gas. There was a lot of coasting in that video-that is wasted time. The next part I would buy, if I were you, is a seat with side support and a harness to keep your body in place-you are flopping all around-the stock z-car seats have the same support as a park bench. A quick alternative to a new seat is a 1X1" board bolted to the floor for your heals to brace on so you can stay in your seat. When you are in a straight section of track-floor it! I only heard your tires spin once. You've got a lot more speed in your current system, but you seem like you are out getting groceries with a helmet on. If you didn't spin out and knock a ton of cones down on at least one run-you aren't trying hard enough. But not on every run...did you have any trouble with brake fade (spongy pedal, ineffective brakes)? If not, you aren't pushing hard enough. You should boil your brakes at least once. Your tires and brake should be hot as hello at the end of the run. What a great club that allows you to get 16 runs! The most I've ever gotten on an autocross day is 8 runs-I'm jealous!

Lord, I'd pay $65 just to let somebody else get snake bitten! Grab that thing.

Just 5-lug it and go with classic torque thrusts. I guess rota doesn't make a 5-lug?