RebekahsZ

I can put a good used set of boots on the mail Friday for free if it will help you. I can send you all four as a gift. Pm me an address if you want them.

Blake, can you make the changes 1tuffz made in order to make these headers fit a 240z without mods? If they fit a 240z they will fit a 280z but not the other way around due to differences in the width of the trans tunnel. Perhaps you could make these mods at the same time you make the mods for the starter.

If you want them and want to wait, I can put a JTR steam vent tee fitting with sight glass and a 3/4 inch tilton master cylinder(the small version I think the 75 series) in the mail. I planned to sell these off later it would be Friday before I got these in the mail.

I'm having trouble with a little oil coming out of my stock diff vent. If it continues (I could be a little over filled) i plan to add a little hose to it and remote the vent a little so the oil doesn't run all over my new,pretty diff. Anything wrong with that plan? I think this is on subject so please gently correct me if I'm thread jacking.

Emerald lion, you know WAY too much about ladies handbags.....Not that there's anything wrong with that...

Those headers are so pretty. I was going to sell mine because they don't fit a 240 well. New plan: hold onto them and build a 280 next. Gotta build a pool and a big shop first. Keeping these beautiful headers.

Where did you clearance?

Taking the engine and trans out will take a few hours. Working around it will be weeks of agony.

Hoping to get back to strip Sunday and will be working down the ETs primarily thru increasing launch RPM. I'll let you know if it breaks. Contact jnjracing to see how much carnage they created to get those wheels up.

Sure. Text me your number and I'll call you to cut thru the fog.

So long as you have a vented cap, yes. You will have air sucking into tank thru vented gas cap pulling vapors off the tank to be consumed by the engine. That keeps your tank at about atmospheric pressure.

On a 240z there is a little triangular tank in the passenger rear fender. It is a vent tank. It has no charcoal in it. I don't know about other models. It needs to vent somewhere. That is what the vent line in the engine compartment connects to. It used to vent the fuel tank vapors into the carburetor air cleaner where they got sucked in and burned up. You can just hook that into the throttle body so long as the port used is before the butterfly. If all your vent lines se in good shape, the fuel stink associated with the z car is from an over rich mixture and the subsequent unburned fuel stinking up the exhaust which then gets sucked in the hatch by the low pressure zone behind the car. If your new setup has computer controlled fuel injection your car will be less smelly due to better fuel metering.

Oops. My bad. I thought you were running the LS1 tank. I need to learn to read. I have a stock 240 z tank. I chucked the charcoal canister and ran a single vent line up into the inner fender as high as possible then looped it back down under the car to open lower than the tank ( to limit fumes ) and I put a little filter on the end to keep spiders out. I eliminated all but one vent. I thought it would be ok but I have to fill really slow to get a full tank. I built an internal sump into the tank trying to copy a 280z internal sump/baffle. It doesn't work perfectly and I do fuel starve on turns below 1/4 tank. My next tank will have a larger vent hose ( like 3/4 inch instead of 3/8) and an external sump hanging a few inches below the tank with an internal pickup,access hole and drain plug. If you plan to leave your tank stock, I bet you can run a line from the charcoal canister to the EVAP port on the throttle body. So long as the port is before the butterfly the little vacuum leak shouldn't affect tune. be sure to put a cleanable filterl before the tank. All tanks are dirty, even new ones (manufacturing debris).

Send a pm to AeroZ. He just worked on this on his car. I think you just vent to atmosphere.

There are two kinds of sway bars you can use. The 280 style which AFCO copied or the Suspension Techniques style which mounts behind the diff. Send a pm to bjhines or look at his exhaust photos and you will see pics of that bar. Pm him to see how you route it around the cv joints on cv axles. Long lead time at manufacturer for that bar. Shox.com just had some made. Call them and ask for Arthur. Johnc also sells them I don't know if he has any in stock. I can send you pics next week of a 280 bar on my car. I'm out of town. Call me and we can dais cuss the merits of each bar. 256-366-4685.

In theory yes. Does your swaybar go under the driveshaft or around between the fuel tank and the differential? If you keep stock u-joint axles and use a 280z mustache bar you will be fine. If you change to CV axles, then you will have to shorten your swaybar links to 4" (this is with a front-mount swaybar) and space the swaybar down from the chassis about 1/2" to keep it from hitting the driveshaft flange when the car is up on jacks. I did this swap last week. Search the forums, I saw a post on this very subject yesterday that was complete with photos. I used to live in Galveston. I miss it. My LS2 came from a wrecking yard in Houston. Don't mess with Texas.

Click the "Donate" link on the tool bar at the top of the page. I think you can pay the "donation" of $20 with Paypal, then you are ready to go. In regard to the diff problem. Look for an open 3.90 and swap your carrier into it (easy job). 3.90 open R200s are very easy to find. There is one on the Nashville Craislist for $30. I initially hated my 3.90 when I was running 24" tires, but now that I've mounted my 26" drag slicks, I'm warming up to it. The problem with it when running street tires was wheel spin requiring an instant shift into second, then immediately into 3rd. Now on slicks, I get better traction and with a larger rolling radius, I have more time in each gear. Go to my video in the Videos-drag racing forum to see what a 3.90 LSD with V8 and slicks looks like. Unless you get really tall tires, I don't see much point in going to even lower gears if you have a V8. Now, a L6 is a totally different matter - gear low for track fun, but that is in exchange for highway misery. If you move the ring and pinion out of one case into another case, you will have to check the pinion shimming and carrier shimming. I would have to get professional help making sure the gear lash was set properly. If you keep the case matched to the R&P with all the associated shims and spacers, then you can move carriers around. Does the VLSD come with axles? The inner CV stub is different on a VLSD vs a CLSD (and I imagine a helical too).

I had a package on my porch from Blake on Saturday.

Just had a really fun drag racing night on John Mortensen's shortened axles with my LS2-powered 240z. No problems - what a blast! Thanks John, my second set has arrived: prompt delivery!

Most cars aren't totally square from the factory. Take all your measurements on a level concrete pad, like inside somebody's garage. Measure at your desire ride height, not on the stands. It probably doesn't really matter if one side has 3 degrees of camber and the other has 3.2. That will still really help your autocross. If you notice, johnc's alignment recommendations have ranges. One range is for street, the other for race. I've run the race specs on the street: you will be hooked up, but you will also really eat tires. Get each side (about) the same, but don't kill yourself worrying about being totally perfect; it won't matter that much. The alignment spec that matters most is toe-in becaust that effects how both tires interact with each other. Set ride height first; all other specs depend on that. Once you have it mocked up pretty close, take it to an alignment shop for final check. I've been close to perfect, and other times I've been off by a mile.

More like a Mulligan, since I have to do everything twice. Besides, my DBW throttle pedal spacer is wood too. Rust, termites, what's the difference! It takes me 15 minutes to make a block out of wood; it takes me all day to make a block out of metal. In the end, it is just a block.

Buy it and run it. The worst that will happen is that your car will sputter - then you will know whether it is good or not. If it isnt up to it, it won't hurt anything.

Some photos

There was no competition! Honestly, I got there so late due to heavy surgery schedule, being on-call for the hospital, wife being non-negotiable on supper attendance, and a jazz rehearsal, that I just bearly got the car warmed up and it was time to go home (poor attendance made the track owner close at 10:30 instead of the usual midnight. The C5 presumed that I was going slow, then walking away from him just to make fun of him. He was acusing me of "messin' with him" when really, I was having a hard time keeping the car in my lane and off the wall (there is a limit to how low bias ply slicks should be inflated). I think he expected some close racing, but the more used to the tires I got and the more confidence I got with a little drift as I went down the track, the uglier it got for the old boy. I think the car can go a lot faster with practice. I was not dropping the clutch, rather leaving the line like I leave a stop sign on my daily drive. It was a total blast. My timeslips look like crap..I was terrible at the light, etc. I'll start working on it, then post a decent timeslip when I can. I might be able to test and tune next Sunday after church at a different, nicer track. I live 1.5 hours from Huntsville in Florence. You should come for a visit. It is an easy drive or I'd come to Huntsville to hang with you.