SleeperZ

Actually, he specified a ZX. You don't need to swap the tranny. Pretty much just the wiring harness with the ECU, the AFM with the ducting and the distributor. Get the fuel pump too, but you can run stock boost fine with the ZX pump. And you will need to run a custom exhaust.

Can't beat the price, eh? Cheaper than the stock jobber I got at the Pick-n-Pull for $20

Maybe it's your rotary

I'm certain Shane could pipe in on your setup Evan. He's run high 11's (on slicks) with the stock motor and 420cc injectors (JWT FI). You may get the flow out of the intercooler - he was running a Spearco. My opinion is you can get very close to your goal with what you have. It isn't necessary to cam the engine (although it is fun ), but you may need a bigger turbo. The TO4E comes to mind, and possibly with a better flowing hot side wheel.

Wow, that is quite impressive. One thing I notice is the majority of the fast ones are supercharged, and there is only one turbocharged - the FASTEST! Go TURBO Baybe!

Yes. Keep looking - there are lots of them out there. I have 2 spares in my garage, and get word about 1 a month in the Pick-n-Pull yards. Why? I've personally done that with two motors now, with ZERO issues. Motors run well and strong, haven't had one go south on me yet. Shane's been doing the same, just drop a stock motor in and run 12s and 11s. He's only broken one in 5 years. The L28ET is a remarkably strong reliable engine. You shouldn't have any issues with wear, and if you keep your eyes open for obvious problems, you can run engines with 200k miles. My original engine had 175k miles, compression high and even, with only some valve seals giving me a puff on a quick rev. 400hp is not hard. It is so simple to bolt in. Just put your money into an intercooler, fuel system and engine management, and use the stock motor.

Hehe, yup, the import racing too. I'm in process of installing a loop so my new slicks can be legal (faster than 13.99)

What is the need for loops on the halfshafts? I don't think the drag racing authorities require them, do they? I suppose it would protect your suspension on breakage, but I'm not sure it's the same safety issue as the drivshaft loop. Just thinking out loud. It sounds like a good implementation, but you will be adding unsprung weight (irrelevant for drag racing, of course).

Yeah, I saw it. Pretty nifty design, but they were advocating uncorking it on the street for your occasional street race Then when you cruise by the cops, have it remuffled. That's going to be a monstrous setup, but I haven't seen any suspension tricks on that yet to stick all that torque that thing will churn out. And gads the money they are sinking into that thing, custom billet brackets, complete crate engine, custom driveline parts I'm sure the sponsors are grinning.

For some reason, the V6 Mustang drivers seem to think they are at least as fast as the V8s. It seems more of them try to street race anyway. One word... SLOW

I am running the stock fuel system with 250hp to the wheels (stock fuel injectors, stock FPR, Bosch fuel pump). I am running the Z31 ECU, and I'm not sure if it can drive the injectors more effectively than the stock 280ZXT ECU. I am fairly sure I'm starting to lean out at the top end, as I see EGTs getting to 1600F or so. I consider 250rwhp the safe maximum out of the stock fuel system (without resorting to band-aid fixes like RRFPRs and such). You can achieve this power level with a hybrid turbo and intercooler, like I have, at 12psi sea level (I run 14psi, but I'm at 5800' elevation).

Just throw the turbo on. The AFM will measure all the air going into the engine, and will fuel it appropriately. Only time you have to worry about fuel issues is when your boost gets much higher or you change injector sizes.

Welcome to the wonderful world of turbo rocker arms. I was unable to get a price less than $18 each.

I hooked up my speed sensor, found out it did nothing, and left it unhooked. I am also not running the knock sensor, as it is faulty, and gives my Z31 ECU an error code unless disconnected. If you have the F54 block, you might as well connect it though. O2 is recommended, but you don't NEED it. Pretty much all you MUST hook up, like LEN said, is the AFM, the crank angle, and the head temperature. Don't forget about the throttle position sensor, it makes it a bit easier to idle. Obviously you need the fuel injectors, and the air regulator is nice on start up. There is a pair of solenoids that run the emissions equipment you might need hooked up - the EGR and the idle speed control. And yes, no thermotime crap or cold start injector, just CHTS and knock on the right side of the block.

Most hybrid turbos use the stock exhaust turbine. It's what I use, and I will be looking to get 300+ hp (at the wheels) this spring before an upgrade becomes necessary. The only reason anyone uses the 300ZXT turbo is for the center section, as some of them were water cooled. The turbine was the same as the 280ZXT. The years to use are '85 and '86 I think, as '84 was not water cooled, and the '87 and later units were T25, not T3. I had my original turbo upgraded to a T3/TO4B, V trim, from JCR, and it's been very reliable - 6 years, 10k miles, and 14 psi.

CSI claims their electric pump draws about 70 watts. Holley did a dyno test on one of their conventional water pumps, and at 5500 RPM, the pump drew 3.6 hp, or about 2686 watts. Electric has a clear advantage horsepower wise.[/QB] Wow - I would not have expected such a dramatic difference! It does stand to reason, as the pulley-driven unit must be extremely over-driven in order to cool effectively at idle....but 3.6 hp, WOW!

If you line up well on #3 (I've never had a motor much past #1), personally I'd replace the chain. It's getting close to the service limit.

Bahahaha, I just had to laugh at that. For higher power applications, the Centerforce clutches apparently can't handle it. I'm at 250 rwhp on a Centerforce II, no problems, but I will probably go to a Clutch Masters unit after I shred the CF with more power.

The cam timing is done with the tight side, the slack side should not enter the picture. If you turn the crank clockwise to TDC, the notches on the cam gear and the tower should line up. Hopefully the tight side guide is not interfering with the process...maybe install the slack side, but time the thing first, then install the guides?

Ah, that's too bad. The "speech" happens to reflect my sentiments, and what I perceive to be true in our administration today...

The tension is applied with the little shoe at the base of the curved guide. You cannot set the tension, oil pressure sets the tension. Your best bet is to align the guides as best you can to the chain, assuming the tensioner is applying pressure, then tighten the guides. The oil pressure tensioner should then be set to go.

I may be wrong, as I often am, but the differences between the 2JZ and the L28ET (yeah, 3.0 liters) are significant. The 2JZ is 4 valves/cylinder and has a crossflow head; result - gobs more flow. The 2JZ also has a higher redline. I haven't checked the specs in a while, but I think it can spin at least 1000rpm higher. I think the T78 would be a huge pig on your stroker, but a full T4 would probably work very well. The Supra has good street turbo options like the T66 as well, which might work better. The 2JZ is capable of 600+ peak rwhp. No one has touched that (yet) with a L28ET. If you don't know much about turbos, hold off on buying and study up. It is way too easy to buy the first thing, then 6 months later figure out your mistake.

We are truly in a sad state of affairs. Kevin S., I couldn't agree more with your point of view on this. Personally I won't have guns (for a variety of reasons), but suffice it to say I do not desire to have that right to own firearms infringed. It is a shame the country couldn't be filled with more peoply like we HybridZ'rs, 'cause I don't think this crap could happen then. That quote from Roman times is sooo appropriate. Bonne chance, T-Z.

Sweeet! After hearing about Jame's dyno results (getting more hp than the N2O shot from the intercooling effect), and now you, I'm becoming a believer.

Huh? Do as I say, not as I do? I paid $750 for a wrecked, but running 280ZXT, and swapped it all in my '78, bone stock, before I started modifying. I will always recommend that route, don't try to turn a non-turbo into a turbo if you have the option. Not saying it can't be done, it's just much easier to find a donor.