SleeperZ

If you have searched, then you already know the L28ET is a good motor, and will easily do 400hp stock. Whatever combination of power adders you do, as long as they are properly fueled, will get you there. With only 12 psi and a 50 shot, the motor can handle that easily - just don't run it lean.

The '77 and '78 tanks will not fit right. They are taller because the spare tire well fits a space saver. Lots of people run the stock tank, but the supply line may be a bit small. The '75 or '76 tank should bolt in.

Sounds nice! What intercooler will you be running? I'm not sure the stock injectors are going to fuel your beast at 18psi though - best hp at 100% duty is a bit more than 250hp - I run that at 14 psi (12 psi for you flatlanders...)

Plumb them in parallel, might work ok IF the intercoolers are identical. Dual tubes would be a PITA though.

Those turbos are tiny little T3s, so unless you are going to run both of them, they will not work well. Just get a stock 280ZX T3 turbo and exhaust manifold for a good start on a N/A to turbo project.

I don't know which T5 you are using, but previous discussions here and elsewhere generally lead to this: Use gear oil for all T5s except the world class versions, which use ATF for their "cone sychronizers". If I have my second-hand information incorrect, please correct me, but I know Nissan recommends 90 weight gear lube for the T5 in the 280ZX turbo.

I'm not too hard on my car, but I've used FelPro gaskets on all my L28ETs with no issues at all. Last season I ran a stock motor at 14 psi boost.

That's an open-ended question if I ever read one... Considering anything will fit if you have the fabrication skilz, what do you want to do with the car? Bigger is not necessarily better (unless you want to drag-race only, and don't mind shooting a bunch of N2O to spool the pig).

I ran a stock '78 pump at stock boost (6 psi) without any problems, but I'd go with the turbo pump for anything over that.

Not sure what you mean by problems.... That said, it just works, but I never bothered wiring all the transmission switch crap, except for the reverse light. Don't know if the ignition curves or rev limits are different.

Just because it's a P90A doesn't mean it has hydraulic lifters, so before you jump to conclusions, lift the valve cover and make sure. And the hydraulic lifters (they are actually hydraulic pivots technically) will function perfectly fine for most performance modifications, as most folks do not raise the redline much. So if the head is in good shape, use it. If a "lifter" is bad and is not repairable, that can be another issue, as new ones cannot be found for love nor money.

400hp can realistically and reliably be made with a stock engine, before any engine mods need to be performed.

I am a junkyard rat. My fuel system is all stock parts off various other vehicles. My EFI is from a Z31, still factory. I can't speak to where you get them - keep your eyes and ears open, and be patient, mostly to learn what others have tried so you don't waste $$ on dead ends.

Sounds like it's in good shape. I usually measure between 100 and 110 psi per cylinder, but I live in Denver.

Intercoolers, bigger injectors, aftermarket EFI, bigger exhaust, boost controller.

No the stupid open deck design is a disaster waiting to happen NOT what i would want on a forced induction car. then you would be just like the honda crowd and wait for someone to come out with a block gaurd Yep, agreed.

That sounds very suspicious to me. On the other hand, I've heard some very disturbing things about GM cars, so it could be a lemon tranny even if the shop is on the up-and-up.

I would say that is essentially correct. The only way you are going to make the BOV work on an EFI using an airflow meter (or MAF) is if your idle vacuum is less than vacuum when you lift the throttle at a good rpm. Then you may be able to adjust the BOV to open at the higher vacuum level. Otherwise, use a compressor bypass. The ECU needs the system to be closed, then it doesn't matter if the valve leaks at idle. As soon as you push the throttle, your vacuum drops and the valve closes. Boost should build. This will also happen with a BOV, but your idle will suck.

Welcome to the board. That's a beautiful car, and only slightly faster than my local favorite, Frank Penrose (we Coloradoans stick together, must be the altitude )

That would be a trick if you could get a gauge to read mixture at WOT using the stock or normal narrow band O2 sensor. They are accurate at 14.7:1 ONLY. If you think you are reading 10:1, it could be anywhere between 13:1 and 9:1, there is NO WAY to know. Reason being the sensor responds to oxygen in the exhaust. Guess how much oxygen is in a mixture of 13:1? 9:1? That's right - NONE! All the oxygen has been consumed, it's a rich mixture. The only way to tell the difference in the mixtures is to measure the CO content.

Don't use a venting one for stock electronics. Use the bypass valve from a 90-94 eclipse. I use that and it has held boost to 14psi for me, no leaking. Just plumb the vent back before the turbo.

I've used the turbo model. I don't know if the non-turbo will fuel the turbo motor correctly or not. However the Z31 ECU is LESS ABLE to handle larger injectors, as the MAF cannot be adjusted, except for the idle mixture.

I dont know if you want to put a turbo engine in the Z. If you are wanting to put in a V8 eventually, running the turbo motor may dissuade you from doing that. You might never get around to putting in the V8.

I found a Daniel Mosiman in Castlerock, CO which is about 35 miles south between Denver and Colorado Springs. Other than that, the local directory has no other listings. I can cruise by the neighborhood on Pearl St. to see if the address exists or if there's a Z car out front...don't know how much that helps...