SleeperZ

Hehe, they don't break because they are non-existant in a rotary

I use steel transitions, and fasten it together with straight tubing. MUCH CHEAPER!

It will all depend on how effective your intercooler is at reducing the intake charge temperature. You could run no ic and have to run race gas at 12 psi, but if you have an intercooler that reduces intake temps 100 degrees lower than without the ic, you could run 91 octane. It's not the amount of air in the cylinder that will dictate if the mixture will detonate, it's how hot it is. Naturally, the air from a turbo gets hotter the more you compress it, but if you have an effective intercooler, you could run 20+ psi and run pump gas.

I didn't want to take the chance of busting through, so I tapered my grinding to leave metal in the casting behind the flange. It doesn't have to taper in much, and the benefits of doing a straight 60mm are minimal, IMHO.

That is going to be sooo hot! That swap ranks up with the 2Jz in my book - good luck with it.

I'll let you know later this year as I tune my Z31 system (cost all of $350) - Z31 MAF, Z31 turbo ECU, SVO 370cc injectors (make it rich), adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and fabricated intake to accomodate the MAF sensor in a larger diameter (lean it back out). Tuning? With fuel pressure. All the components should get me 300hp to the wheels, making it all work is the goal anyway.

NPT = National Pipe Thread. They are standard tapered threads typically used in iron pipe plumbing that don't require sealant to seal high pressures. I used teflon tape anyway...I hope it got compressed enough to not get any pieces caught in my injectors, but I ran the pump a while before I fired it up. I didn't take any pictures of construction, but I shall be doing a "shoot" soon to post, so you can see it installed, along with my new 3-1/2" intake and 3" exhaust. Hope it runs as well as I hope!

The company was BRE, Brock Racing Enterprises.

Wow, that is truly low, ratting him out like that. I think it's the dealer's responsibility to make the determination whether to honor a warranty, but to be turned in -- OUCH!

I switched from my turbo intake to an N42 - ported out the end to match my Weber 60mm tb, and ported the runners to match the head. I also shaved out as many of the little bumps inside. I haven't noticed any heat soak problems people are attributing to the lack of webbing, and actually I doubt the lack of webbing has anything to do with it. I retained all the stock heat shields, both on the exhaust manifold and under the intake - I believe those shields are going to keep the heat away. All the webbing will do is delay a heat soak problem for a few minutes, if you are going to have it. The heat shields, by virtue of the small surface area in contact with the manifolds, will keep the heat away. And I don't think thare are any performance differences in the manifolds, just the N42 looks a lot cleaner.

DustyZ - if you are not changing your EFI, do not put anything but stock injectors on your motor. The ECU will control the fuel - if you change the flow rate, it will not fuel properly. When people put bigger injectors on, they always have to make adjustments, and stock EFI is difficult to adjust even if you know what you are doing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2406817317&category=33742 j/k

Oh yeah? I have turbo swastica wheels with 22x8 slicks that say different (Don't have 400hp though...yet) And read the latest SportZ magazine too, seems like Brock agrees with me on tires as well - wide is "fashionable", but not necessarily better for grip... (yes, I'm rambling, and Brock was talking about high speed stuff using downforce, but the principles apply).

My 280 and I weigh 2710 wet (3/4 tank). I weigh 160, so the car weighs 2550. I've removed the bumpers and the AC, I use factory alloy wheels (very light), and I carry no spare. I have also added weight -- intercooler and piping and a T5 tranny.

That is very slick - way to line up the inlet and outlet through the support! BTW, those aren't drag radials on the FRONT of your car are they?

You can run 11's on a bone stock L28ET. Invest in a good FI, fuel system, turbo and intercooler. You said earlier you were on a budget. With a turbo setup, you don't have to touch the inside of the engine - that's when things get expensive, and for 11's (high 11's at elevation) almost un-necessary. Twin turbo is not necessary, and neither is a stroker. I'm sure they are fun to do, but they will cost $$$$. V8 will get you there N/A, and be one of the cheapest driveable solutions.

Hahaha, and I thought I had a dinky set of slicks! My M/Ts are 22x8x15, and they are taller than that DR. Yes, they do stick. I've not run the slicks yet, but I shall be carrying half shaft spares when I go.

Do an offset grind on the LD28 crank, and get a couple more mm on that. Of course your journals will get smaller - could turn into a weak link, and I don't know how you could resize the rods... Just random thoughts - can't get more bore, go for more stroke

Now that is friggin' hilarious.

Well you better let go of that thought right now. The L28 N/A is a good engine, but 300hp is tops, and is hardly streetable. A mildly warmed over 350 will easily top 350hp, easily streetable. Consider your goals, and your options. There is a huge base of knowledge here, and plenty of people who can answer very specific questions.

Do a search for some of Lockjaw's posts on this subject. He has a real trick setup using some 300zx pressure plate on the 280ZXT flywheel. A little re-drilling and I think you can use any Z32 (pretty sure) clutch disc and plate.

Seems as though everything is compared to the Quaife..... --probably not in this lifetime...just wishing.

I have to say that is the nicest L28 setup I've seen on a Z yet. I am looking forward to hearing more about it.

Yes, 250 whp. I do that with stock ECU and stock injectors. You will have to intercool the crap out of it, as your stock CR is 8.8:1, but you can get that with about 14-15 psi boost. The easy way to lower the compression ratio is to use a F54/P90 turbo motor. Otherwise, bolt on a P90 head, but you won't have the benefit of turbo pistons - no biggie if you keep it tuned right so you don't detonate. I wouldn't try to get any more than 250whp out of a stock N/A motor, but I know people who have done it.

The intake manifolds without the EGR are the N42 that came in Federal Zs '75 and '76. My '78 had an EGR stock, and so did the '77 I believe. It depends on the year of your turbo EFI if you had dropping resistors. I heard the '81 ECU had dropping resistors as well as a separate crank angle sensor on the crank pulley. The '82 ECUs and later do not require and didn't come with the resistors.