SleeperZ

I swear, that Ferrari GTO is a work of art. It leaves me in awe - I love seeing the Zs converted to replicas of that - most worthy.

I'm biased, I prefer an L28ET over a V8, given those two choices. But neither one is "unique" as they've both been done by dozens of people. In addition either one can be built to beat just about everything on the street. I know, I'm no help.

Mudge - I am not using O-ring injectors. I tapped my fuel rail for 5/16" hose barbs, and converted my 370cc injectors to 5/16" hose. Z-ya - I agree that ECU resolution can affect how well a certain injector can be controlled. Most stock ECUs can probably not control a higher flow injector well, and that could be the root of most idling issues with a higher flowing injector. Peak and hold (ie: low impedance) injectors can fundamentally be operated faster, resulting in a potentially wider range of operational duty cycle. A low impedance injector is nailed ("peak") with a high slug of current to open it quickly, then the current is reduced to hold it on. Setting up the magnetic field to induce movement in the injector is very slow - a high initial current helps it along. Once the injector is open you can reduce the current to "hold" it open. If the injector current is not scaled back, the injector will burn up. A high impedance injector cannot be overdriven like a low one, and cannot be opened as quickly. Perhaps the newer technology high impedance injectors can operate as fast as the low impedance ones now, but that certainly was not the case when the L-jetronic was developed.

Very good.

That's what I used, 2' works perfectly, and it was the cheapest I found. Perfect size for tapping 3/8"NPT on the ends.

ditto. will be installing in the next few weeks.

Low impedance. Stock ZXT injectors are about 2.2 ohms, most of the higher flowing injectors are low impedance. The reason is low impedance injectors activate faster, making them more useful over a higher range of on-times. For the same flow rating a low impedance injector will idle better than a high impedance one.

I've alsways run the stock ignitions, but if your distributor is running the MSD OK, no reason to change it, the Z31 ECU shouldn't have a problem. The ECU does have a wire run to the negative of the coil to sense the ignition signal - if it is missing it will give you an error code (don't know if it affects performance though). It probably doesn't, because there are several people using Z31 ECUs with unmodified 280ZXT harnesses, and that connection is not made. I modified my 280ZXT harness will all the Z31 sensor hookups, just because I didn't know at the time what needed to be wired. I didn't go with a Z31 harness, because it will locate the ECU on the passenger side.

It is a problem. You will have to space the turbo off the exhaust manifold to clear the compressor. And the downpipe may not fit anymore. That's what's keeping me from getting a bigger turbo at the moment, but I may enlist my local stainless welder friend to cut it and reweld it so I can use it.

Use the Z31 everything, including the harness. The wiring is not difficult, but take your time and be sure of what you are doing. I am thinking you will have to rewire the fuel pump, and connect the main harness to your EFI relays and give it the ignition and start signals from the ignition switch. Also use the Z31 ignition - I am using it with my Z31 setup and I'm quite happy with it. Be sure to use 280ZXT fuel injectors (they flow the same as Z31s but will bolt into the stock fuel rail), unless you can fit the Z31s.

That's REALLY big. I didn't see an exact match, but it looks like a T66! Here's the Turbonetics link: http://64.225.76.178/main.htm

Pretty sure you need sophisticated balancing equipment to build a turbo right. You probably could do the rebuild, but it will not hold together.

I'm halfway through my ECCS upgrade right now. I have upgraded the fuel system (Bosch pump, SVO 370cc injectors, AEM FPR) and now I'm building the intake. I'm adapting a stock Z31 MAF into a 3-1/2" pipe, and getting a custom sized K&N to sniff from the front of the car. I should be able to tune close to stock by adjusting the fuel pressure (it's running fine with the MAF and 370s by turning down the fuel pressure to 24psi). But now with the modified MAF I should be able to turn up my fuel pressure to 40 some psi and my boost to 18psi or so and get close to 300rwhp. I highly recommend a hybrid turbo. The stock turbo really is just a hair dryer, and is way out of it's efficiency range over 10-12 psi, although it has been pushed close to 300rwhp at 18psi. I'm using the stock turbine with a TO4B V trim and it's a really good street turbo. It spools like stock, even with my 2-1/2" exhaust, and it flows efficiently to 20psi boost.

The A/R should be cast into the housing since it's a housing-only spec. If you can reference the center of the housing, pick a spot on the scroll and measure the distance (radius) to the center of the tube. Then measure the diameter of the same spot on the scroll, divide by 2, square it, multiply by pi (3.14159) to get the area. Divide the area by the radius to get the A/R. If you want the specs on the wheel trim, for Turbonetics, who published data on the wheels, measure the inducer and exducer diameters and match them to the chart. That's what I did for my Turbonetics turbo. To the best of my knowledge no one else publishes that data - I tried to get data on a Greedy turbo - they said NO.

I'm sure you're trying to make a point, but to what end? It's been my impression this board is committed to civility. So what if people ask inaccurate questions? We don't need to coddle them, but we don't need to abuse them either...

Nice! My Greedy Profec does the same thing. Lots of fun.

LOL. I voted for Nissan 6yl, and then notice a separate item for L28 What gives? L28 is my favorite

I disagree with the right representing democracy and the left representing dictatorships. There are plenty of examples of dictatorships existing in right and left wing governments.

I can't answer for sure, but a TO4 turbine of .96 sounds like it would be a real chore to spool up. Honestly I don't know how a smaller engine like a Mazda rotary can use it either.

Given my time slips, 9psi with intercooler, I was only putting about 190-200 to the wheels. Depending on your fuel quality, tune and elevation, you should be able to run 10 psi without an IC. You may even get close to 250hp at the crank, but keep it safe. The intercooler makes such a huge difference in safety and power, I will never run another turbo without one. Oh, time slips 9psi intercooled ran from the low 14s to high 13s. Did I mention this was at 5800' elevation too?

That's not been my experience at all. I was running 9psi with no IC last year. I bolted in my IC, set my boost controller to 9 psi (same reading on my boost gauge - referenced to the manifold). I then compared my time slips. With the IC at the same boost level I picked up 0.5 seconds and 5 mph with the same 60' time. The cooler, denser air will make the difference EVERY time.

Actually, what you are asking is not clear. You need to find out how much fuel the pump will flow at your static injector pressure added to your boost pressure. For example, a stock Z runs 37psi static pressure. For 15 psi boost, you will need a pump that flows enough fuel for (guessing) 300hp at 37 + 15 = 52 psi. You are probably looking at something like 200 liters/hour at 50 psi to be on the safe side.