SleeperZ

Let me know if you want the address (or you can look it up yourself - www.qwestdex.com ) I would not hesitate to give negative feedback. Just be sure to state the reasons for it clearly, and anyone concerned about doing business with you will understand. I've done it before myself, and have had no negative consequences...that I know of.

So THAT'S how you treat the parts I sell you!!!

What fuel pump are you running? Most pumps will not flow at that pressure. 75 psi is too high - there is nothing to be gained at those extreme pressures - the stock z system is designed to be run at a base pressure of 37psi. If you need the pressure to flow with stock injectors, fork out the $$ for some bigger injectors and do it right.

Very nice!

I agree, it is a cool idea. And I was thinking only 300lb as a supplement to the existing drivetrain for SHORT bursts, like a 1/4 mile or something. For continous duty, the battery would need to be MUCH bigger I'm sure.

OK, the drive part looks snazzy. Now lets see the electrical connections, alternator and batteries necessary to store and drive 100hp. Should only add about, ohhhh, 300lb?

Aye, I'm an EE. I design power supplies (analog), just got a new job in Aerospace.

I'll add this, to hopefully make the point more clear...in super/turbo charged engines, it's not compression ratio that causes detonation, it's an improperly cooled intake charge. A lean fuel mixture will also be more prone to detonation.

I'd be real interested to know what the ignition curve is for the 300zx ECU as well. Len, I'm not sure what you mean about the system not being flexible in initial advance setting - you can set it to whatever you want...I have mine set to 20 degrees BTDC (stock), but when I'm upping the boost more I will retard it some from there, say 15 degrees. It seems to run fine less advanced, just not as responsive off-boost. It sounds to me like you are running a tooth or two too advanced, as I can adjust my distributor anywhere in the adjustment range (from about 25 BTDC to 10 BTDC) and it idles fine.

Gad that's nice stuff!

ROFL

Aluminum heads will conduct the heat from the chamber better, reducing chances of detonation on the next power stroke. Detonation is what will limit your power - aluminum heads will not reduce your exhaust temperature enough to make any appreciable difference in the spool up time. The weight difference alone could make that power difference up I bet!

Just for your info, I ran a high 13 on the stock pump and injectors before I swapped it out. I don't know how lean I was getting, but it seemed ok. That is about 210-220 to the wheels I think.

I don't understand the issue. Why mess with the speed sensor at all? Why do you need it? I don't think the HK$ stuff needs it, does it?

The stock turbo pump will put out 90 liters per hour @ 50 psi. That's equivalent to a boost pressure of 13psi, not sure how much HP 90 liters per hour is good for.

It does. The original poster just failed to put in that assumed detail. The metric flow rating for fuel injectors is in cc/min.

I like that thought!

Pretty sure Bob meant NTK, as that is the sensor recommended by DIY. If you have a line on the sensor, please don't laugh - share it

From my time slips, using stock injectors and 14 psi boost (about 12 psi where you are), I get about 250hp to the wheels. My setup is very similar to yours.

That's the first time I've heard the turbos are a plague! Is there an innoculation I can get? MO, not worth the effort to swap an N/A - all that work and minimal benefit (ie: no more power, no less weight)...

Good thing I haven't ordered my kit yet....that sucks.

David - the air regulator cannot affect the fuel mixture, as all the air that it passes is already metered. All it does is bypass the throttle plate to provide the higher idle when cold. Maybe if it is leaking to atmosphere...

MSD hp pump at Summit Racing $76.99 for the MSD pump, should be equivalent to the Walbro 255 hp pump. If you need more, buy two...

Yeah, for drag racing it can be a bonus to get cooler than ambient air. I was contemplating running an air/water IC on the street, building it myself, but good grief there is a lot of plumbing and wiring. I was simply not looking forward to toting around all that water, and still having to plumb a giant radiator out front to keep it cool - perhaps not necessary on a drag-only application, but very necessary for the street. I gave in and got an air cooled FMIC, and it works great.

I love it - that is so funny. Thanks