SleeperZ

That sounds like an awful lot of HP for just 24psi of boost. Seems that the redline would have to move up past 7000 rpm to get that kind of power out of a L28, and a god-awful amount of porting and camshaft work. Seems like JeffP has done much the same, and he's still putting just 400+ ( just 400hp )to the ground. I mean really...seriously...can a L series block even deal with 700hp???? Maybe I'm not doubting the power so much as the power with only 24psi...Isn't Scotty GNZ running more than that, maybe 27 psi with a MUCH bigger motor, and putting down around 500-600hp??

Thanks very much for the info. 3" exhaust here I come!

Oh man, you get all the races, nobody ever tries to race me.

Ya, it's 280s that need the adapter -they have a different stub axle. The 280 stub is reputably stronger than the 240, so some folks are replacing their 240 stubs with 280s, THEN they have to get an adapter to fit CV shafts. Personally I'm going to wait until I start breaking U-joints before I go through the pain of CV shaft conversion. Some individuals with righteous knowledge of racing and suspensions are running 10's and 9's on U-jointed axles.

I would say that could have something to do about it. When you drive a turbine with your exhaust, you will develop some high backpressure, especially with your turbo

That is absolutely true. And the Z32 folks I know for the most part have good attitudes (although some rival their MKIV Supra counterparts )

To answer your question, the Z32 folks paid LOTS more money than you or I, so for them to feel good about it, it must be __________ than a first/second generation Z. (Pick two: faster, quicker, higher quality, more comfortable, better looking, cheaper to repair, economical, better handling).

No wonder they don't allow linking, then they couldn't do the 3 or 4 popup windows for advertising That is some very nice work there - truly the most bullet-proof IRS one can bolt in. (Keeping in mind the C4 vette IRS is not "bolt-in").

What's up with that???? Everybody knows any boost over 20psi will split that sucker right in half...maybe he doesn't have the NAAAAAAWWWWWWWWSSSSSSSSSSSS installed right

This sounds like a similar problem with manual boost controllers. The fuel pressure is regulated with a spring on a diaphragm, and when the spring gets hot it loses tension, dropping pressure (or in my case, boost rose!). Sounds like a different pressure regulator may be needed - I've never noticed this problem with a factory regulator...

Ron, anyone else...? I'm bumping my question on the previous post.

Access is denied.

Ron: In my Summit catalog, they show the Dynomax Ultra Flo round 3" inlet/outlet muffler as having a 21" overall length. Is this the muffler you used? If not, it sounds like 21" may be too long for fitting in the stock location with 3" mandrel bent 90* bends? If yours is really a 19" model, what is the part number (if you still remember and don't mind?) I notice the oval 3" Dynomax as being 19" overall length...is that the one you used? It just looked like you used the round muffler in your pictures...TIA

Sell it on Ebay - the Honduh guys will pay $$ for it. It's way too small to be useful.

Scotty - I broke my old mount just like you. I thought I was clever, and made a piece of angle iron just like z ya describes! So much for originality, but it's simple and it works.

Just post up the offset of the wheels, and whether you have coil-overs or stock suspension. The calculations are quite easy.

This is the path I took for my Street/Track car. Coilovers and adjustable ride height with wider tires would be cool, but with the 1" lower springs, Tokiko strut inserts and the strut spacers, I am more than happy with the Z's ride, both on the street and the track. Ya know, even bone stock, the Z's just rock for handling.

For my 280Z, the three inch exhaust is MUCH simpler than a 280ZX. From my down pipe it is a straight length of pipe with 2 90* mandrel bent pieces at the end. I have not actually built this yet, but I am running the exact thing in 2-1/2" right now.

The stock wastegate may suck, but you should be able to get more than 14 psi out of it. Some people run the stock turbine and wastegate to 20+ psi. What happens if you restore the wastegate actuator rod to original length and up the boost with your controller? Can you get more boost that way? The obvious question about making sure you have no leaks in your manifold (or BOV) has come to mind?

The name of the solid ones is "Brute Force", made by Neapco. Do a search in the drive train forum, and you can find the exact part number.

Correct - I slotted the ears of the trans mount. If for some reason my T5 broke, I would get a welder friend of mine to fabricate a crossmember for me second time around...

The oil feed is plumbed into the oil pressure gauge sender. You could probably buy a brass "T" and a banjo fitting and plumb it yourself, or buy a new stock oil line with the compression fitting on one end and the banjo fitting on the other.

LOL, at least he could have posted the image, so folks wouldn't know the original host.

I would think that for this to become a worth-while swap, it would have to be able to measure more air and meter more fuel (big injectors) than the Z31 or 280ZXT ECUs. What was the HP rating of the M30? IMHO, all the sequential thing is good for is a nice low RPM response, and most ECUs will end up going batch at the top end just because you run out of time to open and close sequentially.

I used the trans crossmember from the ZX turbo - it comes close to fitting. The best solution to making it fit is to cut it and reweld about an inch offset into it. I went ghetto (I'm not a welder) and slotted the trans mount and the trans each about 1/2" and made it fit. You should be ok with the flange. I retained the flange on my R200, and had a custom driveshaft made.