SleeperZ

No - no factory turbo is an upgrade for the ZX, with the exception of the factory GN turbo. It's still a T3 though. I know people who get a GN wheel grafted into a ZX T3, the benefit being a moderate compressor upgrade in the T3 housing, which means no J-pipe modification. IMHO, if you go to the trouble of a turbo swap, and you can handle a small amount of modification and fabrication, nothing beats the T3/TO4 hybrid. It bolts to the stock exhaust, and connects to the intake and wastegate with minor modification. Huge performance increases are possible.

T3/TO4 hybrid, B or E.

Here is a description of Zirconium: "Zirconium is a hard, lustrous, grayish-white metal. The mineral has been known since ancient times, but the existence of elemental zirconium was not known until the late 18th century, It is abundant in S-type stars and is a component of the sun and meteorites. It is very corrosion resistant and is utilized extensively by the chemical industry where corrosive agents are used. Zirconium is routinely found with some level of hafnium, since separation if the two elements is difficult. It is a highly flammable solid and a dust explosion hazard. " Doesn't sound like an engine material candidate to me...

Oh ho, yes I see. Well, no wonder it was running so lean at 20 psi - the air flap was completely maxxed out - worthless POS anyway... You might not get dyno gains at your previous boost pressures, but tuned right, you will get reliability.

This is a very confusing post...first you say you are using an SDS, then stock electronics with a flapper??? I believe the two units are mutually exclusive. If you were running too lean at 20 psi, it seems to me you need to richen it up at that map setting, and reducing the boost will not fix your rich condition. In order to make that kind of power on a stock motor at 17 psi I think you are still running dangerously lean. As for tearing up your halfshafts, there are many folks who can run with more power and not break them - what are you running in the 60'? You will certainly find buyers for your drivetrain parts here, and plenty of support for a 4 link setup, but it sounds like a lot of work and expense that may not be necessary...have you considered replacing the halfshafts with the CV jointed halfshafts? You can retain your rear end and suspension - Scottie GNZ ran 11s with a CV jointed R200 independent rear end.

Have you checked into simply moving the spring perch up so the top edge of the tire you want to run is below it? I believe this is what Scottie GNZ did with his 240Z; I'm not sure how much room it gave, but it would be at least as much if not more than the coil-over setup. You might have to build some custom springs to keep your ride height.

SWEET!!!!

I agree with Scottie, especially about the Volvo intercooler. You want to run the TO4B up that high, a good intercooler is a must, as the B is less efficient than the TO4E, and you need more cooling to keep your intake charge cool.

I'm not sure I buy the cast iron thing being better for a turbo application. Cast iron is a much poorer heat conductor, and will retain more heat in the head - this is a BAD thing. Hot spots will create more opportunity for detonation. I can't relate to the comment about an aluminum head causing more lag than an iron head??? Doesn't make sense to me how the exhaust temperature is going to be radically different given the same air/fuel ratio - you are correct a cooler exhaust will not drive a turbine as effectively, but it seems to me the exhaust temps will be similar, but the aluminum head will cool the chamber better for the next stroke. Of course the L series motors all had aluminum heads, so I can't compare with my experience, but there seems to be no real issues with the aluminum head on an L series, with just four bolts around the cylinder and the different heat expansion coefficients...

Don't know anything about the swap, but you should do it for sure if others not knowing of it advise against. Those are potent motors, and will make the car fly!

I've not heard this about the N42. My understanding is '81 was the first year for the turbo motor, and they used an F54 block and P90 head. Some of the N/A zxs of earlier years used the N47 head, but I've never heard a N42 head used on a factory turbo. That said, 8:1 to 8.5:1 compression ratio is not that big a deal for a turbo setup. You can easily run factory boost level with no intercooler, or a bit higher with an intercooler.

What about the one-way valve that keeps the vacuum in the booster. When you go faster, you don't have as much manifold vacuum -- maybe it's leaking back into the manifold?

Damn! That should do it

Ouch is right! What would it cost just to do the whole thing in titanium?? Is this for the TT repair or your new header for a T70?

Wow, that is a nice piece. If you are still in the emailing frame of mind, I would like to see the CAD drawing for it too

It's just like nitrous except for the fact propane does not add oxygen. The cooling effects may be similar, but propane is a high octane fuel, where nitrous is a buffered oxidizer - quite different in my mind.

I like turbos and intercoolers as a power adder just because they don't run out. Everyone has to top up with fuel, but that's it with a turbo motor. No nitrous refills, no water refills, no alcohol refills. Just seems like a technically elegant and simple solution to massive horsepower

Turn it 90* or so, either direction, whichever way it will go. Then lift it off.

Scottie runs the GM computer. I believe it is loosely based on the Haltech. The confusion arises because he ran SDS on his L28ET before the GN motor swap.

Would it do that even if it was properly set up? I would think your engine would survive even when burning out if you supplied the proper fuel-nitrous mixture...

What RENN said, unless you really like to fiddle and get frustrated (like me).

That's a new one, Jiffy Lube has a dyno? I guess it doesn't matter, I wouldn't let one of their monkeys touch my car, let alone drain the oil.

And the answer is...... No. The reason you can't run pump gas on 12:1 compression is the temperature rise for a 12:1 compression - on a turbo with 8:1 the temperature rise is a whole lot less even though you started with lots more mass under boost pressure. The "effective" compression ratio of a turbo is just that, an "effective" compression ratio. It doesn't have all the qualities of a high compression motor, just the power giving qualities

And it only draws 15 amps....hmmmm.... P.T. Barnum said "there is a sucker born every minute", and it obviously still holds true.