SleeperZ

It's the same size as the 240SX, 60mm. Plus it's bolt-on with all the proper linkage to connect to the factory throttle linkage, no spacers. I picked mine up brand new on eBay - it had a "buy it now" for $85, and I caught it within 30 minutes of the initial listing.

The VATN controller should be able to limit boost almost completely with any reasonably sized motor. It would not be particularly difficult to add an external wastegate though, if you can verify the controller is working properly. But it sounds to me like your controller has a problem with opening the vanes enough to limit the boost. Dumping intake is not the right solution to control boost, but you could recirculate it with a weak compressor bypass valve.

I doubt it. The BMW tb I pulled from the scrapyard will not bolt up without serious hole slottage, and the linkage would be another challenge altogether. The 240SX tb can be a bolt-on deal. I am using the Weber big throat, and that is even less work.

No doubt, Lockjaw. I think JWT sells a good product - from the features you mention, you definitely get what you pay for.

Have you tried one? If not' date=' then you should. I like mine, and while it is not a stand alone for sure, it works pretty well, and they can tune it with some simple measurements from the sensors, and a dyno pull with a wideband. I got one very early into the Cobra MAF changeover, and it took a few chip revisions to get me where I needed to be. No big deal. They have so much data on it now, that they are very close to dialed in right out of the box. A side benefit is not having to retune every time you change something, like say a cam. I have not had any issue's with my maf either, and the system has been used for well over 3.5 years. Actually I have had no problems with the system at all.[/quote'] That's one of the reasons I'm sticking with my Z31 turbo ECU. It may not be a JWT, but it is insensitive to engine mods. And the way it is performing with a modified MAF and large injectors, it should be able to deliver the power I'm looking for, for not a lot of money.

I'm going to go out on a limb here, and say the solid pivots were transitional before Nissan moved to the hydraulic pivots. Judging by the difficulty of adapting a smaller threaded solid pivot to a head threaded for a hydraulic, I think the head was originally machined for the solids. When they moved to the hydraulic, they changed the head machining to accomodate the larger threaded pivot. I have seen many P90A heads with solid lifters, more than the hydraulics. I am running a P90A with solids, and it works excellent. The junkyard motor had a sticker on it underneath the grime that said "Remanufactured by Nissan", so it came from Nissan the way it is.

Wow, that's amazing. I'm still a little skeptical, but you are my hero, Scotty!

Not a chance. Carbs do not need pressure (well, more than 10 psi). That thing would shut down completely by 20 psi. Get a Bosch CIS pump off any number of junkyard vehicles - it is vitually guaranteed to outflow the stock ZXT by 50% at 50 psi +. As a matter of fact, I've got a couple with the right fittings that have been tested and will bolt into the stock location. $30 + shipping and it's yours.

Stock cast manifolds supposedly hold up longer because they are thick. Mild steel headers will supposedly rot out very quickly - if you wrap them, you will void the warranty. Stainless should last quite a while.

Header wrap, especially on a turbo manifold, will cause the heat to remain in the headers and they will deteriorate from the inside rapidly. Maybe I'm just parroting what I've been told, but I've heard it from multiple sources. The wrap is marginally useful in racing to maintain exhaust velocity, but it is not good for the street. A heat shield will keep the heat from the intake and brake cylinders, and will not hurt your exhaust header or manifold. Man - talk abut old thread resurrection!

That specification is a bit shy on data. To say a pump will supply 450hp is misleading if they don't state what fuel pressure it flows 70 gal/hr. A lot of manufacturers, like Walbro, will state flow at a low pressure like 40psi. Actual flow at a useable pressure for an EFI turbo may be considerably less - they state it will operate at 100 psi, but I'd bet that's the shutoff pressure, where flow goes to zero. I don't know what pump that is, but I think it may be a Walbro GL392 -- it is probably adequate and the flow characteristics are well documented on the internet.

It depends on your application. You need to figure out how much power you will be making at what boost pressure. Add the boost pressure to your base fuel pressure, and see how much flow you get at that pressure. That flow better be more than enough to make the power you want - if not, look for another pump.

That is way cool, very elegant!

Way to go. I am using Mozilla exclusively at work, with my Linux install. At the moment I can't get completely away from Windoze (certain engineering software), but I dual boot and use Linux applications as much as I can.

That's a big one. Which one did you get? I'm having good success with my OEM pump for a CIS Porsche 911...

:malebitchslap: Hehehe

That sounds like a good deal - they usually go for at least $100-$125. I'd be interested to hear how well it does. I'm running the 1G DSM right now, but I may soon push it past it's boost holding point, supposedly around 18psi. I have a HK$ racing unit that I recently rebuilt, it has a "blue" spring, but I've heard they don't hold boost too well. Not sure if I should keep it because I may soon need it, or if I should sell it on eBay...

Agreed. I think "rice" is the appearance/image of speed. Examples being big wings, big exhaust tips, tons of stickers, bad/excessive lowering, fake rollcages, fake intercoolers/blow-off valves. Some tacky stuff most will call rice as well, like neon, clear lights, "spinner" wheels, but I'm not sure it totally fits my definition... Here is something ugly, get ready to close your eyes...

That sounds cool. You're right about the turbos not having the tire-shredding torque, at least how you describe "popping out of gear" - wow. With my new 3" exhaust, it seems my turbo comes on smoother, and my tires break loose with more reluctance. I kind of like having traction.

http://www.alltrac.net/manuals/GreddyProfecB.html

As far as I know all the EGT probes are the same - type K thermocouples. There aren't any others in use that can take the temperature of the exhaust. Try measuring the resistance of the probe with an ohm-meter - if it is open, the probe is bad for sure - typically the weld at the tip fails.

To make 400rwhp with any sort of reasonable displacement (more than 2 liters), it is not necessary to run 30 psi of boost pressure. It's not boost pressure that makes the horsepower, it's the airflow. All the powerful L28ETs and RB swaps in Zs here are making that power with 20 psi and LESS boost pressure. The key is to get an efficient turbo, an efficient intercooler, a good free-flowing exhaust, and a good flowing head with possibly a turbo cam. The boost pressure is a byproduct of a poorly flowing engine. There are very few turbochargers that will support that airflow at 30psi manifold pressure - that means the pressure ratio the turbo sees is greater than 3:1. Even fewer will deliver that pressure efficiently, and that air will still be HOT! So you need a better intercooler, and that will drop more pressure to cool the air off. IMHO, if you are seriously considering that much pressure, you are talking much more than 400rwhp, and you will need a dual stage turbo setup.

-6 will not affect radiator flow. All the throttle body and air bypass plumbing bypasses the radiator - it's about a -6 size. Heck, I don't have a water cooled turbo, and my temperature creeps on hot days... Since the engine is the main circuit, I'm not sure you can plumb it not to bypass the radiator. Unless you want to bypass your heater core, you pretty much have to take your source from under the thermostat, and the only place to return it is at the water pump inlet.