SleeperZ

I am running a non-EGR N42 intake, and a stainless downpipe. Colorado is supposed to have visual emissions inspection as well, but they only seem to look for a catalytic converter and a sealed gas cap. The '78 never came with a cat, and I still have a carbon cannister. For three years now, no one has flagged my lack of EGR.

The cores together would probably work fairly well. A friend of mine who drags a DSM has used his stock IC to run low 13's. So it may be restrictive, but you can get the flow out of it. But I agree with Lockjaw, those damn DSM intercoolers will go for at least $50 each on eBay - one I sold for $75. So unless you are a wizard fabricator, get a good premade IC financed by eBay.

LOL! When I took mine off my turbo for the first time, I just cut the tube. Then I got all the nuts loose from the tube ends, and had the tube rewelded. If you like, go ahead and destroy yours - I don't use it anymore, and you can have my welded one!

Well since Scottie posted it, not knowing a whole lot about domestic engines, my guess is it's a GN motor, 3.8 liters. But maybe a Syclone motor???

I've got a trashed T3 turbo that came with my junkyard engine (it has no actuator though). I can remove the wastegate swing valve and ship it to you if you want. Just cover my shipping, the valve is free. PM me if you still need one.

That is truly an unbelievable hybrid!!!

You'll probably need some bigger injectors than stock Z31s. Those are only rated at 260cc, same as the 280ZXT units. You should be OK with that intercooler too, but you should consider a much larger turbo -- that 3.0L V6 is being choked with a T3. I would think a stage 3 turbine (T3) coupled with a larger TO4B or TO4E compressor would be appropriate, and fit to your intercooler better as well. Just run a transition to 3" to the inlet, and run the 3" out to your throttle body. You'll have to get JWT to up your boost and reprogram for larger injectors. Strange the ECU controls boost - you can't adjust that yourself?

Well, the turbo and IC were 2", and the throttle body was 3-1/4". I kept the pipe small until I had to neck it out, but I didn't want to do it all at once - talk about killing flow velocity.

I installed my Eibachs backwards (fronts in rear and vice-versa) and that's what happened. The progressively wound spring goes in the back.

Email him and ask how it cools the air - response should be entertaining....

This is an older picture, and I've redone the intake - no more PVC crap - it was starting to flow on me, as well as be a PITA to keep hose clamps tight. My IC pipes start at 2" from the turbo, through the intercooler, then I expand out to 2-1/4", then 2-1/2", then to 3", and a transition to 3-1/4". Yeah, it was some work, but I intend to run this setup for a while. I had to run an electric fan, obviously there is no room for the regular one, but at least I didn't have to go to a pusher type.

I think you have to use your '78 dizzy, as they are different not because of the tranny, but because of the ignition differences between '78 and '81. The ZX radiator will fit, but you will have to drill new holes in the support for it.

I matched my exhaust manifold to the turbo gasket (which matched the turbo inlet precisely). I couldn't believe how much of a lip there was - had to be a casting mistake, especially since the gasket matched along the top edge.

What Lockjaw said...and I still can't believe that thing was not pressure tested before it shipped. When you pay that much for a part, it damn well better be right!

That's very surprising to me. Have you got any pictures you can post of this? Wow, major problem.

I think you'll be making a mistake turbocharging a 10:1 compression motor, especially with a n/a performance cam. To make power without having to use race gas or serious ignition retarding, you need a low compression motor, at most 8.5:1. 10:1 will shell itself under boost.

You don't need the pump control do-hickey. I seem to recall the connections to make are at the relay box under the hood for ECU power and the start signal. I also had to re-wire my coil, but it may not be necessary for you.

I can't believe you've found no information on this. This is a frequently discussed subject. What it comes down to is it's quicker and cheaper to find a 280ZXT donor and swap in the motor and electronics. You can bolt on a myriad of parts on the stock Z motor and have a less-able platform for a bigger time investment and possibly more $$. But the stock ZXT swap with a good intercooler and exhaust will beat down the hordes of stock mustangs, just bump the boost to 12psi or so, stock turbo fuel system. And you don't want a header for a turbo swap, you want a turbo exhaust manifold - you bolt on a 2-1/2" or 3" exhaust at the turbo outlet.

I haven't heard of anyone using stock electronics with the ApexI piggybacks, so I'm not sure they are compatible. You best bet is to invest in the stand-alone EFI computer up front, like SDS, and not have to worry whether the stock electronics will function how you need them to. It doesn't sound like you are up to doing much fabricating on your own, so to get to your goal of 300rwhp you may have to open your budget up a little. $800 for the ApexI stuff sounds expensive for what it may or may not do - I intend to get the 300rwhp with stock electronics (Z31), but I am on a very tight budget and don't mind fabrication. It sounds like you otherwise have the right idea on parts, virtually identical to what I've got or will get - injectors, throttle body, hybrid turbo, good intercooler, 3" exhaust. I made my own fuel rail for less than $50 - fitting one for barbs is very easy, it's the "O" ring stuff that is hard. Of course I spent way too much on my fuel pressure regulator (AEM), but I needed the low pressure capability. Don't forget a good high pressure/high volume fuel pump with an adjustable regulator.

Mostly because the EGR is missing too. Some people think the non-webbed N42 is more prone to heatsoaking, but I don't As a matter of fact I think it may be less prone to getting hot from the exhaust, provided the heatshields are in place, as there is less surface area exposed to absorb heat.