olie05

i will have nothing to do with you if you get a pantera *shoves nose up in the air...* J/K!

that set up looks like 3 dcoe throttle body kits with a pipe joining them. It should not be that hard to do with TWM's dcoe throttle body kits. Definitely need a programmable comp. No point in doing all that work and keeping the AFM

I probably should mention that the junkyards i'm talking about are Z-specific. There are two here in houston... (that I will do business with)

surely someone must have a link to the entire episode?

I had the opportunity to see this car in person a few years ago at a drift meet. The guy is on houston-imports.com and goes by something like "poor boy wong" Back then the car did not have the two turbos, it was just N/A and had a huge wing on the back... it was still killer. I think its an autologic car. The car is amazing... here is a pic of it before the turbos.

so... how does it use the engine to cook the dogs?

What a blast! First time I have gone autoxing in about a year. I have never autoxed on the suspension setup I have now, which includes adjustable shocks all around and stiffer springs. I was also using hoosier r3s04's in the back and kumho v710's in the front (i'm cheap i bought used) anyway, heres the vid: http://233k.highmileage.org/280zvid.html also, check out http://233k.highmileage.org/280zphotos.html for a couple of pics of my car at the event I'm pretty sure that vid was my fastest run (66 something seconds) Enough to beat a Z that was running in BSP...

bjhines is that a corbeau forza?

ok my nose is stuck to far into the book, and at the same time not far enough into it So, HEI is totally unnecessary when using a vb921 coil driver, yes? you can tell I don't want the HEI module!

From what I have read the HEI module allows you to convert an AC VR sensor signal into a square wave signal. if that is true, why can't we just use the optical distributor with the available "optical input" circut option for the V3 pcb, thus eliminating the HEI module?

i wouldn't call them TPI... that implies tuned port injection, a chevy thing. More like direct port Fuel injection.

oh yeah, make sure your battery is putting out at least 7.5 volts... anything lower will start doing funny things.

perhaps the serial cable is faulty? Check the bounceback with hyper-terminal.

yeah, you either have to plug it in or fill up the air tank... they do not mention what the range is on the car.

I was thinking about the rheostat idea... that should work.

its for a clutch... so i have to know how far the button has been depressed, so i know how far to actuate the clutch

i'm looking for a pushbutton switch that can has resistance values instead of on-off. I guess it could be called a push button POT. It will be wired to an actuator... anyone know where to find such a thing?

Braap, that is very good news! I'm very glad I caught this problem early. Jon, you tlakin to me? ok well yes I will probably put a mark on the a/c pulley and a corresponding one on the alt/WP pulley.

That instrument cluster is sweet! *cough* so is the slant-nose *cough* who said that? not me...

Those are some pretty pulleys... they are pricey though. I spent a few good hours on the car today, and got a few things accomplished. Namely, installed the other harmonic balancer, installed the ac compressor and flushed the coolant system... here are the pics of the carnage: Pictures of the rubber... notice the "bad" side and the "good" side: The other balancer... lets see how long this one will last. The proper way to remove a balancer: BTW, I was able to move the outer ring of the old balancer by hand, but I had to use the "claw" to remove it. The new balancer does not wobble