olie05

Ok the story gets better... (obviously worse) anyway, today I replaced the battery and the loose negative terminal, did several checks with the voltmeter, even though some of the bars on the digits are missing, but it still works. Standing still (no key, no engine running) the volt gauge reads 12 volts. Put the key in, turn to ON position and the car will do one of two things, 1) continue as normal with a very slight voltage drop, or 2) go down to ZERO volts immediately. With the new battery I did hear the selenoid on the starter click a little, as if it were trying to engage the flywheel, but no turn-over. I think there is a short somewhere... I hate electrical gremlins. I checked all my fuses, I looked at all the connections I have made in the past and double checked with my multimeter... I'm soo out of ideas right now! I just remember that I DON'T remember hearing the relays clicking under the dash when I switch the key to the on position... now what relays are supposed to click again? ugh I hate this car!!!

My alternator will still keep the car running if I jump the car, but I think the battery went totally dead on my way back from austin. Here's what I think happened: I took the corners hard, and shook one of the terminals loose, namely the negative one. Then I drove all the way home with a half-way loose terminal (unknowingly). I'm assuming that is what caused the battery to not be charged, and I have my headlights wired directly to the battery. So the car drove all the way home on the alternator, again assuming here, and the battery must have been almost dead by the time I got home (3hr drive). I don't know about that battery stuff... I can get a free replacement if I want, so I'm not too concerned, just wanna drive my car!

I went to start the car this morning, and nothing. Here are the symptoms: Volt gauge reading 7-8 volts just standing (normal >12) When Key is put into on position voltage goes to zero There is not enough power to engage the selenoid on the starter The car almost did not start with a boost, but eventually did. Here's what happened (i think) First of all I have those crappy autozone battery terminals. I drove up to austin yesterday, and drove back the same day, and took some backroads at speeds that only a datsun could take them at (had the tokicos on 3) and I think i sloshed the battery around alot, enough to loosen up the terminals. Halfway through my journey I went to get gas, as I was leaving the car didn't fire right up they way it normally does... kinda took 5 or 6 cranks. This morning I got nothing. I double checked and I didn't leave my lights on or anything simple like that... I bought some better battery terminals so we'll see if I can drive my own car tomorrow. The other option: A MINIVAN!!!!

I run no a/c and I had heater all winter, but due to my current water temp gauge sender location, I can't use the heater anymore. The defroster hardly works without the heat in it. I drove the car without heat for a bout 1-1/2 years and once I put it to use I can say It is one of those things I will not remove.

craftsman=lifetime warranty

I seriously doubt that was made for a left hand drive car.

looks really clean! I like the chrome spark plug cover, nice touch!

do a search on "ls1" you will get alot of results... it is a V8, but it is a reliable v8 if installed correctly. The 6 will be straining to get to that 400hp N/A. It is possible turbo charged, but not without alot of effort.

You have dished pistons and an N42 head. That will give you a stock N/A compression ratio. Dished pistons are the way to maintain proper quench if you have a N42. Flats are the way to go for a p90. You can use the stock turbo management on your setup. In fact you could even use the N/A wiring harness. It's been done before. Search!

could that FWD midget be the first FWD car ever?

haha nice! I would totally get one of those. I wonder how it works?

Why did he ask "what engine?" if he was such a purist? I think he was trying to see if you were one of them HybridZ-ers. he's probably one of those guys that goes around saying, "I had the shop install (insert-overpriced-performance-part-here)"

Are you using the oval piping to save space? Also, how does oval piping get measured? the big diameter or the little diameter? just curious...

wow hybridz can be harsh! about the bumperettes, It seems like anyother shaving proceedure. Remove the bumperettes, and then see what you have to work with.

bring back some kameari chain tensionsers!!!!

That would make a cool two-stage shift light!

I'll take the OS giken headed L-series with the spaghetti tube headers And shouldn't that "l24 equipped GT-R" be equipped with an S20? It does have a sexy valve cover though. thanks for the link!

check fuses first. Then move on to wiring, look for loose connections in the wires from the sensors. Look for something rubbing against a wire, andalso somehow make sure the gauge is still functional. good luck!

I'm not too familiar with turbo's, however Did you use a flare nut wrench on this nut? I was doing brake jobs on my car with a standard open end wrench, and i was shocked at how much of a difference the flare nut wrench made.

I'm curious about this janspeed header bieng a work of art... any pics?

he obviously raced the wangan midnight car and caught it on a bad night... duh..

found this while surfin' the net: http://www.tavia.com/free_degree_wheel.html

look a little closer... He welded the bracket he made onto part of the turbo. that bracket holds the wastegate actuator. I think it will work fine.