olie05

Nice Find! What are the future plans for the project? Welcome to the HybridZ!!

yes, I too was confused when my post count went from somewhere in th 800's to 600's about 2 weeks ago... doesn't really matter, I just found it a little odd

I don't know about getting a Z to look like that. The side windows and quarter windows would make it hard to believe. The front clip would be easy to make, but then you have to match it up to the lines of the Z. Thats what makes the GTO conversion unrealistic on a Z, the doors.

I don't care what engine the car has... someone give me a 200gt! that is a clean swap!

I like the radiator mount. with proper ducting (and maybe an opening in the hood) it could provide some downforce at speed.

Spend good quality time with your distributor shaft. It is a PITA trying to adjust it in the car compared with adjusting it on the stand. Get the timing right before you put it in the car!

that is definitely an s20 engine... check out the intrusive spaghetti headers and the distributor mounted on the right side of the engine above the alternator. Also in the first set of frames where they focus on the alternator you can see part of the first carb on the right side of the engine. edit: i just noticed another thing... when they are pushing on the throttle linkages the engine is torquing over towards the side that the carbs are on. if the carbs were on the left side of the engine (like on an l-series) then the engine would be torquing away from the carbs...

well if you build the tunnel in a pressurized box and fill it up with a standard compressor, an accurate 1:12 scale setup may still be within your grasp. You would need to run around 175psi, but you would still need a fan that can blow at 100mph. another bennifit to using 1:12 is that the 1:12 scale models are really realistic... all the way down to using actual coil springs

this should make you a believer... also from this page:

from the nasa website:

some racing style pedal setups use two master cylinders and a "balance bar" in between. You can adjust where the pedal pushes on the balance bar to increase the force bias towards one master cylinder or the other. In your case I would assume that you can turn something to adjust the rod going from the pedal to the bias bar and move the rod closer to the front brake MC to give more bias to the fronts. btw any pics? that might help a little. something like this? : http://a1racing.com/images/products/inventory/WIL340-4630.jpg

what an odd intake setup. don't you think a straight pipe would be less restrictive?

wow! so even if you did a 1:12 scale model, the air speed would have to be 1200mph to simulate 100mph? thats faster than the speed of sound!

so, will you be sending the 10% to me for opening your eyes? lol j/k. Congrats on finding rare parts on your engine!

lol I wouldn't pay it, but people are addicted to ebay... example.. there are a set of headlight covers on ebay that are exceeding the cost of MSA headlight covers! They are just plain old acrylic HL covers. I'm sure you could unload a 4-barrel conversion manifold at somewhere around $100.

I'm with rubin, The largest model will give you the best realism. I would suggest a better fan, and seperate scales on the front and back wheels to measure lift/downforce. Also, how are you going to set the car up so that it has very little rolling resistance to accurately measure drag?

If you part it out you may get a little more money. For example the intake manifold, if cleaned up can fetch as much as $100.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/spinwerks.htm for those of you who are wondering

We finally got the mr2 engine in!!! insert shameless plug for self here: http://www.geocities.com/olie005/mr2engine.html'>http://www.geocities.com/olie005/mr2engine.html don't forget to check out the rest of the site: http://www.geocities.com/olie005

the centerlines will look very good, especially if you choose to ride that low!

wow your signature is very deceiving.

i'm no aerodynamicist (sp?) but the roof seems like the best place if you want air in the cabin. let me explain my reasoning: there is alot of airflow over the roof of the car, in fact the air sticks to the downward slope of the roofline towards the hatch (creating lift). This would give you alot of air going into the car. Compared to the high pressure air accumulation by the bottom of the windshield, it seems that the roof would give you more velocity, and more pressure with the air coming in, than say, the stock fresh air vents on my 280z, which would almost be the same as putting the intakes on the inspection lids. I wouldn't do functional "ealonor" style quarter window intakes, because when you open you windows you get lower cabin pressures, so it seems that putting the vents that close to the windows would maybe not be as effective in getting air into the cabin as the roof scoop.

you won't be able to get the front cover off of the crank without undoing those welds.

I used the light-duty light blue silicone to seal off the cracks (from fumes) on my tail lights.