olie05

I agree with john, and will share my personal experience. I had the same problems with my z, exhaust fumes when I would cruise at high speeds with the windows open, and faint fumes with windows closed. I fixed it by going into the hatch area and sealing up all the little holes I could find, and by replacing the tail light gaskets. That was it! for me at least. My advice to you; Fix the leaks first, and then if you really want a roof scoop, install it. But don't install a roof scoop and expect it to make your fumes disapear.

this is a good read from another forum i visit sometimes: http://www.houston-imports.com/forums/showthread.php?t=269475 here's the meat of the post:

I thought we were talking about light bulbs!!!!

*ahem* According to MS word, it's "light bulb." That whole post could use a little more punctuation. */ahem* lol you hit hybridz on the nose!

one could also argue that downforce is drag... maybe efficient drag, but still drag.

The wing looks good, the stripes are very retro and the wheels are true to the era. I would drive it, and step out of it wearing my AO aviators. edit: it better have a powerful engine to match though... editII: i would go for "period correct" enkei 92's for that ol' school touch.

nice hatch!

do the airhorns fit on to the flange like legos? would the manifold fit on to the airhorns the same way? i'm trying to visualize a possible finished product.

my car has no fumes!!!

there was a new DB9 behind me on the way back from work today and i was reminded of this thread

ever heard the phrase "when you spin, both feet in" ? I would lock up the brakes if I was flying too.

some producer up in universal studios just saw that post and will put an S30 as the main car in the upcomming "summer hit" you just ruined it for all of us!

...as i roll my eyes...

are you serious?

I think I remember the guy jon is talking about, and IIRC, he did only one or two layers on top (just enough to be able to handle the mold) and then he added layers underneath for strength, and so it wouldn't build up anymore.

thats awesome! congrats.

wow i wish... no my setup is stock intake with a cone filter setup MSA 6-2-1 header, 2.5 piping, mandrel bends, turbo muffler. i'm honored by your ITB comment

lol, yes they can make a tensioner that will go to 13000rpms, but they will be hard pressed to get an nissan L to that rpm. oh yeah, search!

hmmm I've never heard of an auto choke on a fuel injected L engine. If you have patience to fix it, it would be worth it, otherwise find one that already works.

that was quick!

Ok, not really much action, just a 1-2 shift from a light. let me know what you think! http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=7532&cat=500&ppuser=9320 Oh yeah, turn up your speakers!!!

sweet! what are the plans for this car? Stock restore... or will it get modified?

true, but then you would only have control of fuel, which is not what alot of people want. p.s. potentiometer tps comes off the 240sx

i think they are all linked to the fuel gauge fuse in the fuse block. Check there first.

I have a problem... My current 2-1/16" gauge sender is located in the back water heater outlet on the head. This renders my heater useless, which is not a problem now, but will be in a few months. I'm looking to buy a 2-5/8" gauge to fill out the clock hole correctly, but most come with 6ft tubing for the sender. I pulled my measuring tape out 6 feet and placed it from the thermostat housing to the windshield and it came about halfway up the windshield, which would mean it would be JUST enough to get that gauge in there. Is anybody out there running a mech water temp gauge with 6ft tubing? or - should I just find one with 12ft tubing?