olie05

yeah, check out the Fuel injection bible. It has a very nice if-then-else type diagnostic that will hunt down your acceleration problem. also do a tune up. It will go along way.

no pcv?

I play guitar sometimes, used to be in the jazz band at my highschool, but now mech. engineering has taken over my life.

for the mid mounted sr20 you could use the fwd transmission and mount it longitudinally. Then you could use the left/right drive shafts as front/back driveshafts to the differentials.

The car looks great!

cool...

how long did it take you to do all that on ms paint?!?

My z has been in pretty much the same state since I repaired it after the accident. For those who didn't know, at the end of last summer, a lady cut me off in her SUV and I swerved to avoid her, but ended up hitting a guy in a jeep cherokee. I totally collected off the lady, and with the money I bought a new fender (only thing that needed to be replaced), a used right front strut assembly, front tokico illuminas (to complement my koni D-style adjustables), G-machines t/c rod bushing set, new tie-rod ends, and new ball joints, two used swastikas, and 4 new kumho's(yes thats how much i got out of her!). I haven't done much after that, except gutting the interior to fit all my junk for the florida trip I made over spring break. I replaced the 3.9 with a 3.54 for fuel economy on the trip (28mpg average!) I am currently (very slowly) collecting parts for megasquirt. For the summer: Finish painting the car with a roller. Install and tune megasquirt. Use steelies for street, use swastikas for autox. I have an excel spreadsheet that tells me what I need to have done by the end of the summer (given all the free time I have) and the total amounts to a little more that $1000.

z-ya, what makes you say that? It seems to me that with MS you could seriously lean out the mixture in the cruising range, and save alot of gas over the stock system. Also, eliminating the AFM should help increase the efficiency of the engine, and give back some mileage.

911's were air-cooled. If it originally had the bosh *-jetronic system with an afm flap it should be about the same as installing it on a watercooled car, except you use a cylinder head temp sensor instead of water temp. Or you could use a oil temp sensor, but I don't know how much more (or less) reliable that would be.

that car looks ripe for an l28 swap

aha. found it: <--- haha its a "tan" smiley compared to the other ones!!

I understand dynamic compression. I will restate the question clearly. An engine with slightly excessive dynamic compression (i.e. low durration cam, relatively high static compression) detonates once it reaches operating temperatures. Does this same engine run perfectly fine before it reaches the critical temperatures depicted by the graph? example, 11:1cr L6 with a STOCK cam!! (not my setup, but an extreme example) If you look at the graphs, does this engine hold off detonation until the engine temperature goes beyond the corresponding slope on the graph? I hope that made sense! Edit: I may have figured out why there is confusion. In the graph it shows that the higher the temperatures are, the more octane the engine needs to prevent detonation. If this is true, then can one also assume that a detonating engine is less likely to detonate at temperatures far below operating temperatures, such as those seen when first starting up the engine from ambient temperature? sorry for the run-on.

congrats on the swap! More power is the way to go anyways. I would never get away with pulling the engine in the street, but I would NEVER try it in your driveway... that thing is steep.

lol... "welcome to yesterday" reminds me of work... "Oliver, I need this done yesterday."

Does this graph imply that an engine with excessive dynamic compression at operating temps will run perfectly fine if it has just been cranked up (cold engine), right before it reaches that critical temperature point on the graph for the octane used?

on the bright side, you have already pulled the dash twice, so the third time it will be a snap!

Our school is just starting the FSAE program. It actually started at the beginning of the semester. So far we have only gotten one donation for a less than adequate amount, and we're trying to compete for 2007! Hopes and dreams will pull us through! anyone want to help out and donate? (tax deductable.... )

73 green machine is right. The 3 groove pulley I had, the PS groove was removable, with the bolts. Check to make sure your bolts aren't covered in dirt and oil.

lol, theres nothing wrong with crx's. ok let's see, I guess i did hijack the thread a little don't get a porsche, unless you want to spend the rest of your life working off the debt you will accumulate for replacement parts. 90-94 eclipses are a cheap option, and quite fuel friendly. Hondas will probably be your best choice, for cheap parts and good bang for the buck... but if you work out a deal with your mom, that would be an even better choice, because you would get a maxima out of it. also, how soon do you need a car? Once my friend finishes rebuilding the mr2 in my driveway, he will be selling his 99 altima for apretty low price. Can't speak for him now, but if you're interested I can talk to him and see. -Oliver

a friend of mine and I are in the process of building up a road race/DE car. The flares are about 4 inches wider than stock. The wheels he runs right now use a 1.5" spacer on the rears and a 1" spacer on the fronts. The back wheels for that combo are about 10 or 11" wide. Moving those wheels to the outside of the flares would require a much larger spacer, and we are concerned about wheel bearing loads. I know the placement of the centerline of the wheel is what really determines what loads the bearing sees, but is there any advice for this kind of set up? also, where could some good (not too pricey) wheels be found?

my best guess says they're kodiak wheels.

how bout you put aside 1k to make your car reliable? wouldn't that be the cheapest option since you already own the car? You don't have to worry about fixing any new problems you don't know about, transfering titles, insuring two cars... etc. get a laptop, and a premade MS harness and your car will be reliable.