olie05

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104570&highlight=intake+manifold 'nuff said

who says you need to have a turbo motor to run an intercooler?! lol

yeah... haha I already carry that around in my car, you know, just in case!

ok thanks for the replies! I have a toolbox, with metric wrenches, 7-19mm, sockets (mostly deep) from 10-24mm (with some sizes skipped) and I have an adjustable wrench, channel locks, a 3" extension, a 6" extension, Lug wrench, original wheel chock, original jack tools and jack. I will have a spare tire for the trip... btw all the tools i listed above, I carry in my car all the time... the question remains, which items should i buy at the dealership, and which should i buy at the local parts store?

he got it in a lot along with a parts car, but they normally go for around $300 around here... thats a bare engine with no manifolds or anything on it. I would consider this swap a big downgrade from the l28. the engine of choice from the 944 would be the 3.0L I4 16v and DOHC from the "944S" model. I think they are rated at or around 250hp, N/A. ...are the flat 6's subaru's?

I'm getting ready for a trip to florida in the z, and I want to make sure I get some parts that wont fail. Would it be worth the extra money to buy a few parts at the dealer? The parts i'm looking to buy are: alternator/waterpump belt thermostat set of spark plugs and wires possibly a distributor cap How much of that can be purchased at the local parts store with little to no loss in quality? Also, are there any other things i should replace/check before going on such a long trip? oh yeah, i'm changing the oil and filter before the trip.

A buddy of mine asked me to pick up a engine for him while i was in austin this weekend... so I did... Wow!! my car is almost tucking tire with all that weight in the back!!!

add 800cc's

nice! That waste gate opening up will sound amazing. don't forget to put a heat shield for your brake MC!

Nice job! definitely one of the nicest "new school" looking z's

thanks! that explains a few things.

Hello... You may recognize me from my recent thread, "help brake feel is not what i want." ok... well now I'm curious. Why did the brake feel the way it did? ok heres a diagram: now what i don't understand is the red shaded area. That is where there is a spring... the question is... does that red shaded area get filled with fluid? and if it is supposed to get filled with fluid, if it somehow is filled with air, will it cause only the front brakes to work well? also, how does fluid get into the red and blue areas? the green and yellow areas are pretty obvious...

I fixed it!!!! It was the MC all along. I suspected it from the "very short hissing sound that maybe lasts about 1/2 a second." either way a good bench bleed and good all wheel bleed helped me get the pedal consistent. E-brake just keeps getting better too!!! Now i just have to adjust the pedal itself. Any tips on that? I want to adjust it as much as possible without actuating anything. Obviously that is the point of adjusting the pedal in the first place, but how do I know where that point is?

I think that K20A2 (or is it K20A) is doing its job... Did you hear the whine it had at the HIGH rpm?

nice!! its about time... remember the day we took it there? yeah... you need to do something about the engine for sure. White smoke is not going to fly with a nice paintjob.

this is taking a long time to update... but i found another link that might lead me to my problem. I found a small puddle of brake fluid one morning by the left rear drum, and later found out that the brake cylinder was leaking. I replaced that, bled thoroughly, and i still have the same problem. Of course, now when I stab the brakes and hit them again, the car stops very predictably. I also found that my automatic adjusting mechanism was not working at all on the left side, so thats fixed now, and my e-brake is tighter than ever! Ok, now I gotta get off my Lazy A$$ and take back that brake MC. Oh yeah, the reason why i suspect the brake MC is that when you first hit the brake pedal, there is a very short hissing sound that maybe lasts about 1/2 a second. I'm guessing that is either air or fluid running past the rubber pistons inside the bore of the MC. Hopefully replacement will fix this problem...

i have an idea... get one of those towing mirrors, extend it all the way, and weld in 1" square steel tubing behind it, pointing towards the offending car at a 45* angle from the side of your truck. The "girl" will see the new towing mirror, aim for it, and then wish she hadn't...

456.00 Kilogramms equals 1004.57 Pounds