olie05

I just looked in my haynes manual, and it shows a picture of the adjustable setup on what they call an "early" type slave cylinder. It appears to have a two nuts, one that sits against the fork and one that locks the first nut. It also has a spring to hold the fork against the pushrod. (P.89 in haynes manual.) That said, What is the purpose of an adjuster on this piece? Would you adjust it with some preload on the clutch so that the Throw out bearing is always up against the springs or what? I've never had any problems with my solid push rod, even with a stiffer pressure plate. Please enlighten me -Oliver

If I remember reading my haynes manual, 240z's had adjustable clutch pushrods from the factory. Datsun decided in the later years that it was self adjusting somehow and used a solid rod. -Oliver

FYI we all have Z's... and on the topic of being different, No one has ever done a hyabussa engine into a z before, maybe you should try it? ON3GO is planning on doing a S2000 swap, and others have talked about it so I would say that in a few years there will be someone with an S2000 powered z. No one has done a rotary into a Z, except for Auxiliary, and even he has not completed the project. From what I know no one has done a CA18DE(T) swap into a z... so theres some uncharted territory for ya. Whats wrong with the engine in the car now? You should really drive the Z around and enjoy the L engine before you go ripping up a car you've never driven. At least then you will have something to compare your swap to. Good luck with whatever you decide to go with. -Oliver

why not use two seperate throttle bodies? I think two throttle bodies would look cool, but i guess getting a proper linkage for them would be alot harder than the TB you are going to use. Have you measured clearance against the fender with that setup and added the length of the vette throttle body? -Oliver

mine still works.

yes, I have PAllnet's rail. It is very good quality. You really don't need to do any other modifications, other than maybe replace the little rubber hoses between the rail and injectors. You may have to find another place to mount the FPR, however. -Oliver

Just yesterday I went to a "track day" at the new track by Houston, Motorsports Ranch. Basically it was all the instructors from the lone star region PCA getting a chance to run the track for the upcomming PCA DE that was going to be held there. I got to ride around in a Lotus Elise, with a driver from Alara racing. That guy could drive! He was complaining, however, about how through the corner the car had too much porsche in it. After saying that, he started jerking the steering wheel in the middle of the corner towards the inside, and he would hold it for about a second, and the car wouldn't do anything. I guess it was the cars dynamics, like too much understeer or something, but the car would not rotate with the jerking of the wheel. (he made his point to me lol)

heres a few attempts at chopping em up to help you visualize... and..

i would really get the complete engine. Picking up all the parts seperately can really add up and become a headache. Get a complete engine with all parts (if your not set on a turbo conversion it will be cheaper) and you will have everything you need, plus the spare parts you already have. Further down the road if you decide to, you can rebuild the longblock that you have and just swap it in with the parts you got off the "complete swap" engine. This would be the most cost and time effective option. -Oliver edit - I just read that you have everything except the tranny ecu and harness and DP. Depending on where you live, transmissions can be easy to pick up. (I can get one for about 60 bucks at my j/y and 150 if i'm feeling too lazy to pull it myself) Ecu's and Harnesses are very easy to come by, and if you're feeling creative a megasquirt system and harness will take care of that and give you programmability. Some members on this site will be willing to make you a "performance" downpipe for a reasonable price also. If you were missing the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, injectors... etc, then I would get a complete engine with all those parts, but you're actually not that bad with the few parts you're missing.

nice enkeis! The car looks Great on the ground! Just out of curiosity, I think I recall you saying that you were using eibach progressive rate springs? I have the same springs on my car and it appears lower than yours. Your car being a 240z it should sit lower on the same springs. What size tires do you run? -Oliver

Thats definitely an upgrade from the low tech engine the RB replaces in that car. Too bad the car itself isn't as well designed as the engine... Its fun to read their comments

Ah I did not realize you could just cut the tops off the tubes and rethread, I thought it had to be done by sectioning. For some reason it seems that the cutting and reathreading method would be stronger than cutting and welding. How come no one has really posted about this method before? -Oliver

nissan l6

I was talking to a porsche guy about programmable ecu's and we were talking about inputs and sensors and such. I told him how many sensors Megasquirt uses, and he said that he only uses a TPS, IAT, Coolant Temp and RPM readings for his N/A race cars. Now it makes sense to me why he is able to do this, since N/A engines are much more predictable then boosted engines when it comes to guessing what manifold pressure there will be, but is there any advantage to this? -Oliver

Wow. First Time I see that. The crazy part is that the guy was already running when the corvette was coming at him. I will definitely be REALLY careful next time I work a corner at an autox.

I thought it was 6500rpm

Yes, this was the only way I was able to rebuild my sis' 4g37 with NO manual!! All I did was find the torque specs, and because everything was in bags and labeled THOUROGHLY I was able to put it back together easily. Mike... what are you doing with those wide wheels you came accross? you know, the 15x10's and 15x12's or something like that? If you're going with volks...

so if the RB20DET fits into the 280zx that easily, why not the Z? Just wondering... Edit: my understanding (now) is that everything should bolt into the Z with the shorter rb20 transmission and z31 mounts, correct? -Oliver

sure, but with four valves per cylinder its bound to be more efficient than the stone age L28et, and with a turbo, just up the PSI to compensate for lack of displacement! -Oliver

I have been doing alot of reading lately here on the fumes because my car was just killing me! So I decided to take off the tail lights and take a look around the sheetmetal, since my hatch gasket was ok and I thought this would be a good place to start. I took of the drivers side tail light and noticed that the gasket was melted all around the top half. I soon discovered that the sheetmetal behind the taillight was bent in (from an accident) and who ever did the work on it only replaced the tail light without fixing the sheetmetal, so the sheetmetal was not in contact with the gasket that was on the tail light. I bent the sheetmetal back to where it should be and bought some 1/2 inch high density foam weatherstrip from lowes. That and a little RTV cured the problem. That was one problem The other problem was that when I took my bumper supports off I forgot to fill in the three holes that take the studs from the support to the body. I put some corks with rtv in that. Another thing I noticed was that my passengers tail light was craked on the inside plastic behind the reflectors. I RTV'd all the cracks as well. Now, I have no exhaust fumes under 40mph and very minimal exhaust fumes above 40mph (with windows open) I get absolutely nothing with the windows closed. Hope this helps someone Diagnose their exhaust fume problem in the future! -Oliver

you should have enough room to run some sort of "fresh air" pipe. Like a brake duct, and not part of the intake system directly, just something that directs fresh air on to your hks air filter. I say use something like that in conjunction with your heat shield, becuase your heat shield is not going to suck up any air (the angle is too steep).