olie05

I'm hoping some of the GN guys will chime in here... My dad has an Olds cutlass with a buick 231 V6. he has done a top end rebuild (replacing the heads, new gaskets new hyd. lifters) The problem is that it is running on 5 cyl. The car is missing on the #6 cyl. Is there any comon problem that we should start looking out for in diagnosing this thing? The engine is the odd fire 1984 version. btw the way we checked for this was by pulling a spark plug wire at a time and grounding it, to see if the engine changed idle characteristics, and when we got to #6, the idle did not change. There is spark to that cylinder, so what would be next on the list? thanks -Oliver

I wouldn't get the falkens. those tires are crap compared to a pair of bfg's. I ran those ze512 in 205-50-15 and i could kick out the back rather easily... my kumho ecsta 711 225-50-15 are much better (for grip). I don't know if it has more to do with the size, but the difference is very noticable.

this is about as much info as i have on 280z trannys from the Zgarage2001: Nissan called the '77-80 trans a "wide ratio", while the '81-83 is called a "close ratio" 5-speed. The early one has the lowest 1st/2nd gears for acceleration, but a wide spread between 2nd and 3rd. The later one has a taller 1st/2nd but a tighter spread between 2nd and 3rd. It also has a much taller 5th for cruising. Your choice. According to a Z Doc friend who rebuilds transmissions, the early 5-speed is a 4-speed with 5th and reverse sharing the same fork. He said it's common for people to "blow" 5th gear as the fork is weaker. He said the later 5-speed is a genuine 5-speed and is stouter. I call the early one a 280a and the later a 280b to keep them straight. as for t-5's not sure...

wow! from the pictures I say that is an excellent find for $900. Looks like the driverside floor rail is bent though. very little rust repair, and it should be ready for hybridization...

i think the v has potential for more power, given a simpler design. For example, the crankshaft on a v6 will be much shorter than one on an I6. Also, since rods can share crank journals, then there are less metal parts to cast into the cam (or cut or forge) and you get a lighter crank... of course you run into the problem of having to run two cams just to get single ohc. The V configuration of the block helps to strengthen the whole thing.

lol thats a big four!

surprisingly the guy at my friends dad's shop put some antiseize before installing the plug.

it doesn't fit behind the passenger seat?

megasquirt?... yeah i think thats what you meant... there are ways to do it. You have probably already read this, but here goes: http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/nitrous.html

not quite, grumpyvette. I was going to fill it myself if I had been able to get the side plug off myself. So in reality, in this case a 5 foot long section of plastic tubing... etc would not have done the trick. more like all i needed was a lift, to allow me to put FULL force on whatever wrench (or pliers) was attached to the plug. not much you can do with a bolt that needs about 140ft-lbs to remove and the car is about 1 foot off the ground. I have decided to just let this one slide, and let it be a lesson learned.

I would have if i had gotten the plug off my self.

oooo you should do a comparison of some sort between the stock manifold and this! I'm sure its considerably lighter than the stocker too, right?

yes! please post your wiring diagram, and estimated cost... I would love to have some BRIGHT headlights... maybe an aiming system to aim them right into the eyes of oncomming SUV's that don't know how to dim their headlights!

Heres what happened... about 2 months ago, i had to change tranny's because old one went bad. I didn't have a pump to fill up the tranny with, so I took it to xpress lube. They filled it up for like 25 bucks and I drove away happy, with a lubed up tranny. well, I got a wild hair up my a** and decided to replace the rear main seal on the tranny 2 days ago. I spilt quite a bit of gear oil, so I decided I should top it off. I went to my tool box and pulled out the closest fitting wrench on the side fill plug. (17mm) I think i spent about an hour trying various methods to get this side fill plug off, but nothing. I decided to take it back to the xpress lube (the last people who touched that plug). The guy at the shop says he'll top it off for free, but it turns out the guys there couldn't get it off either (ha!) and the manager proceeds to inform me that they must have used their specialty 'Impact wrench that fits into tight crevices' to tighten it the last time, and that they don't have it at the shop so they cant take it off. ooookkk... wtvr. So this morning I went to a local shop that does mostly paint and body work, but also some maintenance (lubes alignments), And the guy was actually determined to get it off, unlike the xpress lube wimps... He eventually got it off in about 1 1/2hrs, and didn't charge me anything cus i know the owners son. I feel like i got the run-around with the xpress lube people. I even have the old drain plug to prove how hard it was to get off. Anyways, what should i do about this, shut up and take it like a man, or cry my eyes out in front of xpress lube until they give me free stuff? or maybe a strongly worded letter to corporate office? I need ideas here people! btw this morning's little trip to the shop made me miss 2 of my classes... xpress lube definitely put me at an inconvenience. thanks for reading through all that!

Hope you don't mind me putting your post on a diet I was wondering about this pic... This is the portion of the roof that comes down behind the quarter windows and next to the hatch cutout, correct? In the pic, is there a re-enforcing piece of metal, or is that just light playing tricks with my eyes? I am curious because i recently noticed that the paint on my Z has cracked in this area on both sides, after installing a stiffer suspension.

I can just see you sitting on a milk crate taking right turns real slow so you don't fall out of the car... lol

like the wheels! they look like they kinda stick out in one of the shots... maybe an excuse for zg's??

there is a reason to use the block, but there are a few reasons that people don't use it. Pros: Taller deck height, gives room for a better rod/stroke ratio than a normal deck height l-series. cons: it is front sump, the head bolts are 12mm, l20b front cover must be sourced out, 83.5mm bore doesn't allow for a really big bore size. I can think of about 3 people on this board who have either thought of going the ld28 block route or who have actually done it.. oh yeah, search and you will find. -Oliver

for shame... i pull the bs flag on you. (And i don't mean the back spacing flag...)

i can't decide... perfectly clear tail lights or awd kit? lol

lol... sorry i don't have an answer to your question ted, just that icon is funny... lol

WOW! if you look on page 6, they have a genius device that keeps the chain tensioner from popping out when not under tension!!!! Double wow to the kameari gear tensioner setup... although i have seen that one before several times... ohhhh chop top z on page 42

No prob. The reason why braaap couldn't see them was because he was opening them up in notepad... BTW Ed, what was the problem and what did you change? and I couldn't see them at first because i was i MSnSE mode. Had to go down to MSI mode on MT. Z-YA, Do you think you could post links to those maps in this thread? Possibly in .msq format or as screenshots? I'm guessing the 19lb injectors are the stock N/A ones and the 26lb are the stock turbo ones, correct?

lets see some vids mike!!! oh yeah, i'm curious to see your modded wiring diagram... probably wont do me any good with your 300zx trigger wheel... congrats!!!

Here are Jkubes maps: