COZY Z COLE

If you want a copy of my wiring diagram and parts needed, and can wait a few days, I'll e-mail it to you . My electrical guru is out at sea fixing a electrical problem on a ship for a few days. My set-up requires no dash switches and low and high speed is temp. controlled switched automatically from low to high and back to low speed. LARRY

Now a couple of video's by the Turbo Meister wouldn't have anything to due with this, does it???? I love boost on a V-8. LARRY

http://www.weberprecision.com/weberprecision1_008.htm LARRY

What year is your car??? LARRY

As far as the sensor for the low speed relay goes we ran it into where the upper radiator hose connects to the radiator. The reason I had the low and high speed controlled in a relay box is so that there is constant power to the box with the ignition on and you don't need a switch in the dash. You don't want low and high on at the same time so that you fry your fan motor. To me a dashed switched fan biggest problem is, not turning it off, but forgeting to turn it on...... Don't ask me how I know this, Make sure you run in-line fuses. Now that should bring you up to about $31.50.... LARRY

I have the 2-speed TAURUS fan with an adj. low speed relay set at 180 deg. mounted on the driver's side fender and a 210 deg high speed sensor mounted on the intake manifold where a heater hose was. These both are routed to a relay box that switches fan speed dependent on temp. I normally run at 192 deg. with just a couple of times last summer that the high speed relay kicked in during a few extreme "spanking" runs. LARRY

If yours is like the 77 model the C-6 connector shown in the fsm wiring dia. in the headlight sch. is connected in a white plug panel on the passenger side by the top of the carpet. It is a black 6 prong connector and has the RW wire in it, part of the body wiring harness not the efi. I think it's time to try a new headlight in yours. I'm still betting on the dimmer switch. LARRY

http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/ LARRY

Your comment has me a little confused. I noticed that you started your other thread on the first dyno session witha a dynojet comment. I have 30 dynojet runs on my car and not one of them was for "numbers" and all of them were certainly for tuning perposes. The dynojet shop in my area is the only chassis dyno for miles around. In the 2 years I used it I've seen from racing teams to individuals use this shop and not one was spending their money to get "numbers". They had spent serious money on mods and wanted a well tuned machine. Now all that said keep up the good work. LARRY

Not likely, the usual culpert is the combination switch. Remove it and check the soldering of the wires on the dimmer lever and the switch.Check your plug contacts. Last resort is to get another comb. switch. When the comb. switch goes bad you can have either brights all the time or regular lights. LARRY

This thread is making my hair hurt!!!!!!! Do you have a Z CAR now? What year and model? What condition? LARRY

Great!!!! Pics?????? LARRY

Have you checked with this member??? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97130 LARRY

Boy, I agree..... This is the first web site that froze my machine since I bought it in 2003, not sure you were looking for that kind of feedback.... LARRY

FWIW, As we all know there are two sides to a story. An interesting follow up to this is on this site's link.... http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=102561&page=1&pp=20 The owner of JGY Customs provides his side to points brough up in that thread in another thread that he provides a link to. The web site linked in this thread is mentioned and a competitor has his hands in some of the complaints too. It's been my experience to take my car, that has a problem, to a shop and have the person there blame it on something that the other shop had done wrong.All I know for sure is in owning and running a small buisness most people don't have a clue what they are getting into...... LARRY

If it idles rough but revs good check the bellows between the air box and the throttle body. This is metered air and any cracks in it will mess the mixture up. Take the bellows off and check for cracks and replace it if needed. LARRY

Hmmmm.... Timing is everything, when this was first posted there was no reserve price. If you notice in the shipping instructions he indicates he didn't know how to add the reserve price to the item...... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99425 LARRY

IMO get the 75 280Z, last year for smog exempt in CA., weight is more but worth it for the added strenght for your engine and it was the first year for efi,. US market for the 260Z was 1974 only. LARRY

Being that I used to live in CUB land as ERNIE BANKS use to say, " Let's play two".....Another great video and don't forget to post when you come up to SAC. Raceway so we can see the live version. LARRY

Might check this out, on the left menu click A/T rebuild kits. http://drivetrain.com/ LARRY

84-86 300ZX Turbo MT & A/T had a 3.54 R-200 84-86 300ZX NA MT & A/T had a 3.7 R-200 LARRY

Best site I've found which contains links and info on many of the above mentioned programs plus much more......... http://mywebpages.comcast.net/SupportCD/OptimizeXP.html LARRY

Go to the Photo Album and look in the Video section LARRY

HANNS,...........DAMN................ When people ask should they go Turbo or V-8 we'll say both and direct them to you. I showed the video to the my better half and she asked," What happened to the other car? " I said," It has a case of a Bad Spanking........" LARRY