CarJway

I know its a long shot, but looking to see if anyone is willing to sell their PDK Strut bar. Picture below for reference.

When I purchased RCA's (Bump Steer Spacers) I asked if I was sent 8.8 hardware by mistake. (Instead of 10.9) I was told that in this specific application he would rather have the fastener bend then break. Implying that the 10.9 fastener could possibly break before the 8.8 would bend. There are other members that have much more fastener knowledge than me, and could further clarify/elaborate on my comment above.

Great build! I see you have poly bushing in your Tension Rods... Might want to take a look at the thread below, as there have been some rod failures due to them... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/22762-scary-tension-rod-failure/

This is awesome... Thanks Derek for putting in all the time, and this might just stop me from putting a F20c into the car!!!

I use a Mocal thermostat Sandwich plate with a Setrab 25 row oil cooler. I'm currently making 400whp in an L28 and it seems to hold on the track. If you don't want to spend as much on a Setrab cooler, check out Earls. It should be around half the price. Part number for the sandwhich plate; SP1T

Give Isky a call, and tell them what your goals, purpose of the car, etc. They will work with you to build something that suits your needs.

I've been intending on this swap for months. Glad to see someone else doing it, and taking pictures. Good luck, and keep the thread updated!

Have you looked at the Precision Billet 5858? I currently run that turbo with a cam, and if I recall from my last dyno session, boost threshold was around 3300/3400 at 19lbs. No one that has been in my car has ever used the word lag to describe how the car comes back off of boost. I do see that the power levels you are aiming for are the 300 range, so this might be a little on the larger side. For reference I am running a stock l28et block, making a little under 400 whp. (car is used for road course/driven hard every chance possible) I will try to dig up a dyno plot with boost on it...

I am currently running a Spec 3+ with a fidanza flywheel on an L28; my car makes a little under 400 whp, and equal torque. Don't expect the clutch to drive like a honda, but its definitely manageable on the street. I also have no problem daily driving an evo9 with a dual disc clutch through traffic, so use that as a reference for driveabilty comment. There is nothing more frustrating then being on a dyno/street and your clutch slips. The Spec is a little pricey up front, but gives you room to grow. So, if you don't plan on doing much more than NA turbo, you may look at something else, but we all know how that story goes. I plan on using E85 and being in the mid 400's and fully expect this clutch to hold. I only drive the Z to abuse it, and the clutch has taken everything I have given it.

I am looking for the screws/hardware to attached both halfs of the plastic column cover. There should be 4 small narrow screws, and 2 other machine thread type screws. Total of six.

Window switch; unless you are controlling the solenoids via a standalone no switch is needed. As you will control this via the ECU. Set the juice to cut off 250-400 rpms before your redline. I give that buffer, for any type inconsistency in what you are using for a trigger. I had the same setup you described (WOT/Arm) and it cost me 2 head gasket jobs. For the small price of a window switch I think its needed. Placing this in the pipe; since you are boosted, you are going to have to worry about sealing the lines going into the pipe. Vibrations wouldn't be my worry here, but rather sealing everything on boost. As well, placing this in your charge pipe with the bends might not be an issue due to positive pressure in the intake tract, rather than vacuum alone carrying Fuel/Nitrous. I never got into a boosted nitrous setup, but nozzle placement/bends might not be as critical. BOV; I can see where you're coming from. But if anyone thinks your a ricer, let them see what a 'ricer' L28 is all about... I would probably go with an open to atmosphere to avoid any added complications.

My experience with N20; gone through 30+ bottles and sprayed 150-175 wet in my mustang. I made a bunch of mistakes, decent size nitrous back fires, etc. The key with it, is it is only as safe as you make it. Having the appropriate safety measures like a window rpm safety switch is very important unless you are running this via a standalone. Pressure pure, etc. I don't think any of the suggestions made for nozzle placement will be optimal. You should have the nozzle 3-6" in front of the throttle plate, with the straightest path possible. Atomization is critical with a wet shot, and placing it behind the throttle plate doesn't seem as this will occur. Paths to runners could separate this process and give unwanted results/performance. I wouldn't worry about puddling, unless you are running a large 'shot'. Velocity is going to be important to avoid that, and if worried don't spray until the upper RPMS'. In my case, I was spraying 150 above 4k and never ran into any issues. I would run the nozzle in the pipe between the intercooler/throttle body. If you attached a picture we could gauge how large of a 'bend' you have. There are also controllers that will progressively spray via RPM to ensure items like velocity are present. As for the BOV; having fuel go through the turbo isn't directly an issue, as this is how some blow through setups are. Some will state that the gas drop lets 'can' damage the compressor wheel, but you will have to further research that. I would further look into any residual fuel going through the intercooler. I am not mentioning the N20, as it is an accelerator to the fuel, and why I am only mentioning the fuel. Is there a reason why you cannot vent to the atmosphere and possibly avoid this worry? Keeping this looking clean should be easy; place both solenoids in a fender and only run the two stainless lines for the nozzle. I hid every aspect of my N20 system. My purge would run under my car, and I would only purge when doing a burn out to keep the noise/puff cloud a secret. I have only touched on some points to get started and didn't go into full detail but can certainly share all my explosive experiences...

I am looking for the pulley that is located at the top of the engine, for the power steering pump. Let me know how much shipped to 20879.

I welded two 3/8" or 1/2" T3 flanges on my manifold to get the clearance I needed.

Got this done at Mandrel Bending Solutions in MD. Straight through Vibrant muffler sounds crisp/deep at all RPMs. These pictures are very old so don't mind the dirt/grime on the car.

If you were only looking to fix that dreaded bind when lowering the car, a helper/take up spring may have been another option. Helper Springs = http://pitstopusa.com/c-133004-springs-coil-spring-accessories-take-up-springs.html Spring Spacer = http://pitstopusa.com/c-133219-springs-coil-spring-accessories-spring-floaters-spacers.html

Check out these threads for the spacer... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/74434-10mm-12mm-ring-gear-spacer-information/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/62957-how-to-make-10mm-to-12mm-spacers-for-a-r200-ring-gear-without-machine-tools/

Yes, if you're running coilovers...

I am currently running a 17x8.5 +20mm in the rear with a 2.5 inch spring and it clears. This is with no spacer; its a very close fit, but it does fit. I had to cut a section of the weld on ring to make this work, and clears fine with regular old lead weights too.

For the "release bearing"; do you hear a chirping, gravel/rumbling coming from the center of your car? Does it go away as soon the bearing begins to make contact on the pressure plate? Not sure why the spring would have fixed your issue, and think there is something else here. I am also in the SS area, i'm in Rockville.

You could also go with the 13" rotors, and keep the 4 piston calipers vs 6 piston calipers. Dave at Arizona Z has the brackets to do this, and is the setup I went with. I haven't gotten to take this to the track yet, but I assume it should work fine as others have noted with the 12.2 setup.

I ran into the same issue; I purchased inner tie rods by a company named 'Rare Parts'. They only have the inner driver side, but that isn't an issue since I am running custom outer tie rods. Part# is 26575 I have put less than 100 miles on them, so no real comments on their durability.

I personally have had issues with external Walbro 255l pumps; I have had two fail on me in less than 1000 miles. (I run Aeromotive filters prior to the pumps) I have run them internally for years without an issue, but externally I have had no luck. I have switched over to the Bosch 044 fuel pump.

The post is a "Sticky" in the drive-train section. My car is a 78.

I had binding issues with the Z31 axle swap, and is why I went with Jon's axles. I drive a 280z; in my install thread you will see some rough measurements of what is now available after the axle swap. I never took measurements of the originals, but I recall my driver side axle, with the cage being flipped was a rough/tight fit.