510six

I am looking forward to a ride when you get it put back together.

I posted previously that I was hoping for 30 mpg with a 3 liter Lseries stroker using an AEM EMS with full sequential injection and using a dual fuel gasoline /E85 setup. The primary(gasoline) injectors are Honda 240cc units when under boost the fuel is switched to E85 using 6 1600cc injectors and 2 380cc injectors. The results after 500 highway miles was 31 mpg , it should be mentioned that the transmission is a T56 six speed with a .75 and a .50 overdrive the engine turns only 2100 rpm at 70 mph. The motor used is a bone stock N/A N42 , the built 3 liter will probably suffer a slight mileage penalty. I was pleasantly suprised, I did use almost 2 gallons of E85, but that was only under boost and not regular (or legal) highway speeds. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

http://www.aemelectronics.com/tru-boost-boost-controller-gauge-757 I have seen one of these work very well on an turbo Honda. http://propartsllc.com/spekGaugeController.php?subCatID=20

+1 on the better balancer.

If you use a z31 ECU Nistune is an option. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/81216-nistune-questions-get-them-answered-here/

Using a Spearco water injection kit with 12 psi and a small T4 turbo, the IAT temps wouls be 95 -110* or so on an 80* day. The air filter was right off the inlet of the turbo, the IAT is right after the TB in the same location as the the stock cold start injector. With 220* IAT a physical or chemical IC would be good insurance against future engine damage.

Randy , I found this link. http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2220363

I ran a distributor some years ago with a MSD Digital 6 and SDS EFI, the timing was retarded with an MSD Boost Timing Master. The setup was used due to a large shot of nitrous being used, the Digital six failed twice and was repaired by MSD on both occasions. I would keep the MSD unit as far away from exhaust heat in the engine compartment as I could get it.

R5671A-8 NGK gapped to .32 using a Ford SHO coilpack with an AEM twinfire CDI. The E85 takes a colder plug and more spark energy to ignite than gasoline. For your setup a set of the same NGK plugs in the 7 heat range would work fine I would gap my plugs down to about .30-.32 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NGK-4091/

The only changes that had to be made in order for the tripple disc to fit was that the "pivot ball" length and the throwout bearing holder were both reduced. The T5 bellhousing in my car (to a T56) has already been modified, so the lengths will probably be different. The tripple disc clutch has better street manners than the sintered iron setup, but it is still an on/off switch.

I am running a 10,000 rpm tripple plate clutch as the dual disc slipped on the dyno at 440rwh, the kevlar discs are proving to be less of a maintenance issue than having the flywheel wear surface and the clutch pressure plate rebuilt every 5k street miles. If you are making less than 420 rwh the dual disc clutch should work fine , over that a tripple is in order. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2071134/6

Sounds like the front pinion bearing in a long nose R200.Mine made a high pitched noise past about 30mph, replaced it and the whine (it is a relative term with a solidly mounted diff) went away. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/64073-r200-nla-front-pilot-bearing/page__hl__R200%20pinion%20bearing

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/wheel.htm So you are retarding your timing under boost in a similiar manner to using a shot of nitrous. It works, I would start out with about 15* in the higher compression NA motor on pump gas under boost.

There is another option http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/40006-930-cv-jointed-shafts-finished/page__p__324875__hl__porsche%20930%20cv%20joints__fromsearch__1entry3248

Running the colder plugs is a good step in the right direction, I still would suggest using a CDI, a quality unit can be had for less than $200. If you are still using a distributor a loose bushing or a worn bearing can let the distributor shaft "wobble" and create spark scatter and incomplete ignition esp. at high rpm. When I was still using a distributor a new bushing was made using aerospace plastic and it eliminated timing issues. http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/Summit-Racing/Product-Line/Summit-Racing-Street-Strip-Multi-Spark-Digital-Capacitive-Discharge-Ignitions/?autoview=SKU

What type and heat range of spark plugs are you using? If you are using a NGK BPR6ES the plug is to hot for anything over 10-12 psi I would suggest using a set of NGK BPR7ES-11 gapped to .30 or .32 this will help to eliminate potential hot spots in the combustion chamber. Running a CDI ignition IMO is not a bad idea as the extra voltage keeps the spark from being "blown out" as combustion pressures rise. Methanol injection provided it is tuned correctly will provide octain and cool intake temps and these are never bad things with a forced induction motor.

Broken skirts, the several L28's I have seen with broken skirts are two turbo motors running 17+ psi on fairly large turbos with stock cast pistons. The third was an L28 with a shot of nitrous, the thing all of these motors had in common is that they detonated due to less than conservative timing on pump gas . With a cast piston NA L28 conservative timing with pump gas is the ticket to engines living , because it doesn't take much detonation to break stock pistons. Currently with a stock NA L28 on E85 246rwh was made with 28* of timing under boost, this was possible due to the higher octain of the E85 and the CDI AEM (EMS) ignition . Years ago I ran 80 10 lb bottles of nitrous through a cast piston L28 stroker in a year with no engine failure, due to fairly conservative timing and a MSD digital 6 CDI on pump gas the car ran mid 12's. Using a methanol injection system will also enable more aggressive timing due to lowering the intake temps and raising the octain.

"Should" is the operative word here, the vss signal to the AEM failed (broken wire) otherwise we could have compaired the speed on the dyno vs. the speed signal dattalogged to the AEM. "Just the motor was bone stock, like the internals, j-pipe, ECU? Or are you running an intercooler, better turbo, exhaust piping, Meqasquirt etc... This makes me really want to turbo my car." The L28 is an N42 rebuild , the turbo is a T67 , the fuel is E85. This should answer the rest of your questions. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2071134/3

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/65005-intake-mani-portingtoo-much-for-a-newb/page__st__20__p__609736__hl__ported%20n42%20intake__fromsearch__1entry609736 Coating the exhaust manifold and the heat shield would yield better results, I coated the intake manifold because I had been given a partial bottle of Techline CBX and figuered an extra thermal barrier couldn't hurt with the exhaust and turbo right under the intake. Testing with a lazer thermometer of a friends intake with a uncoated exhaust, heat shield and intake was a 40* difference between mine with all items coated.

Dynoed the car today, had a bit of a problem with the dynojet dyno. The AEM CDI ignition on the car puts out to strong of a signal for the dyno jet to read rpm, so the tune was mostly guesswork. The bright side was that 20 rwh was picked up with the tune 246 rwh @ 7psi, the motor is a bone stock N/A L28 on E85. The dyno operator/owner is going to do some research and the rpm will be taken next time from the sequential injector feed or using an optical sensor off the front dampner. With a proper rpm (torque) graph tuning to 9-10 psi on the stock bottom end shouldn't be a problem. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

http://www.turbophile.com/technical/diy_catch_can.html This is a pretty well setup catch can. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ep/airoilseparators_homebuilders.html or an aircraft style.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us After trying several possible solutions to keep oil smoke from coming out the exhaust after boost (the ONLY time the car smokes oil is right after boost .The crankcase is vented with one 5/8 hose out of the block and another out of the valve cover into an aircraft style air/oil seperator which has an oil drain back to the pan. The motor is a Nissan L 28 bored/stroked to 3 liters forged piston, Cunningham rods, with a T04S T67 / T3 ball bearing turbo with a oil restrictor and a 7/8" drain back to the pan , so the drain and the restrictor were not the problem. It was suggested to me from a friend who has to use a electric smog pump from a mid 90`s LT1 F body modified to act like a vacuum pump.The pump is activated with the supplimental fuel pumpcontrol (thanks AEM) for the ethanol side of the fuel system on the car which activates after 2k rpm and 40% throttle.A circut is being contructed to allow the pump to operate for 5 seconds after boost. http://www.turbobuic...g-pump-how.html The car is smoother at rpm under boost and smoke after boost is not as noticable, this should be be better when the pump is allowed to stay on after boost.

Do you have a picture of the turbos compressor/turbine wheels? That would help a little. To make this a relevant and non-pointless conversation, you need to tell us what wheels(compressor and turbine), what engine, compression, cam, intake, fuel system, exhaust, goals for the car. etc. Only then can someone give you a meaningful answer. +1 for this paragraph.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I had a Total Seal $%&^* ring break in my motor and the rings prematurely wear the other cyl,the 3 liter stroker was pulled out of the car. A temp solution was found by way of a recently rebuilt $200 NA L28e motor from Craigslist, the car was recently tuned to 8 psi with the T67 and using E85 as fuel under boost. The car feels pretty quick esp considering the bone stock L28. On the plus side the pistons are still OK, but another block will have to be race prepped(to the tune of about $600 worth of machine work). I am currently using a Chevy LT1 electric smog pump modified to be used as a vacuum pump,it works great but needs to stay on for a few seconds after boost to help evacuate excess crankcase pressure. This is a circut made to do just that. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=SKUrM0dwXao

Like the tech at Precision Turbo said " what do you plan on doing with the car". I plan on drag racing the car and doing some street driving, not using the car for Auto X or roadracing the T67 would be ill suited for that application. If you are planning on drag racing the car or would like to stand a snowballs chance in hell in a roll on vs. a supercar the T67 is a great choice esp. with a ball bearing center section IMO.