Turbo Meister

Thanks for the comments, guys. "FasterbyFosta" The gauge that wraps all the way around is my fuel pressure gauge. The one below and to the right is the boost gauge and it only makes 17 psi. "COZY Z COLE" Yes, I leaned it out a little, :nono: too much. Won't I ever learn!!! I am getting a Pop-off-valve since the Blow-Off-Valve is not activated by a WOT backfire. Hanns

Last week at Irwindale Raceway my Z suffered a vicious Backfire just after I installed the new PROFORM Carb body and primary billet metering block. This engine has never backfired at W.O.T. and thus I was quite surprised to hear a gentle POP about midtrack. It appears that the pressure of the backfire blew 3/4 of the welds on one side of the Airbox containing the carb. It didn't come totally apart because one of the BOV studs anchored the 3/16 th inch thick aluminum plate to the lidframe. However, the blast nudged the BOV against the inside of the hood louvers plate, punched it out and sent it spinning into the air. The below video was slowed down at the point where the louvers left the hood so that it could be seen. It was too quick in real-time to be observed. So the pop won't be heard because there is no audio when slowing down the video speed. The engine seems to run ok and the turbos still spin so I'm hoping the only damage was to the hood, the airbox, and my pride. Hanns I wonder if John Coffey can fix the airbox? http://album.hybridz.org/data/509/damage.wmv

Just got back from the BBQ. It was still going strong when I left. Tim, Thanks for the great food, you are the BBQ Meister!! It sure was nice to talk to everyone there and hear the interesting stories, especially Bartman's youthful escapades. Tim, you are a fortunate man with all your neat automotive toys (as in full-size cars) and tools and gadgets, etc. I'm looking forward to the next get-together. Hanns

So let me get this straight! The Z will become a racecar with the high compression 406 while you build the Twin turbo 357 for the Monte. Then when you have some miles on the TT357, it will go into the Z! Can the Z trans and rear handle the 406? Why not get insurance, etc for the Z and put in the TT357. Then drive it moderately until the rings seat (restrain yourself ) . I only put 50 miles on my rings until I punched it. My suggestion is based on the fact that I don't want to wait so long until another TTV8 Z roars to life on HybridZ. Hanns

My Z said it doesn't want to drive to L.A. "Something about TRAFFIC and POTHOLES". But I'll be there and I'll bring my Race DVD. That is if TIM has a dvd player. Didn't he say he doesn't watch much TV? Hanns

I'll attend but only if I can bring my RACE VIDEO DVD and force everyone there to watch it over and over. Hanns

Bart, I say keep the headers but use oval exhaust tubing to the rear of the Z. As you know, my Z has dual 3" exhaust from the turbos, over the axle and out the rear. My ground clearance is minimal but it is doable because I'm using SPIN-TECH oval exhaust. The 3" tube only takes up 2". Your 2.5" exhaust would probably only take up 1 5/8" if it were ovate. It's a thought. Hanns

Rick, Can't wait to see the turbos on your Z. Terry, Isn't there a rule against someone owning TWO great looking Z's??? Thanks for the comments, Guys. Hanns

Joshua, I'm glad that the quality of the video is good. My original video is so much better but I must compress it in order to be able to post it without creating such a large file. The original 32 second video clip is actually 112 megabits. The camcorder is a 7 year old Sony recording on digital mini-tape. I'm surprised it's still functioning in light of the many dragstrip rides it has made while looking out the windshield of the Z and monitoring my gauges in the dash. Hanns

Any 1/8th mile run faster than 6.40 seconds or 1/4 mile run faster than 10.00 seconds requires the following by NHRA : 1. Driver must obtain and pass regularly scheduled FAA certified Physical Exams. 2. Roll Cage tubing thickness must be .138", and must be certified on a regular basis by licensed personnel to verify welding standards have been met and installation meets NHRA specs. 3. Window net needs to be installed and Battery relocated to trunk if 135 mph exceeded in 1/4 mile. 4. Driver must wear full or 2 piece fire retardent Race Uniform, Neck Collar, Gloves, 5 Point Harness ( replaced every 2 years ). 5. Driver must obtain Competition License by making several runs over a 2 day period and then having a qualified person attest to the driver's capability. That's all I remember right now but I'm sure there are other requirements. I drive my Z on the street, and occasionally race it. I don't want to run 8's in the quarter mile, just smooth 9's. I don't have a hood scoop or decals, just a little sleeper. I can meet all the requirements except for the cage ( .098 Thick ). Guess I'd better save some money for a legal cage before I'm banned from all the Drag Strips. Hanns

This is a 6.48 at 109.5 mph 1/8th mile dragrace video from Irwindale Raceway. The run is slower than usual because I let off the throttle just before the finish line. Then the track was shut down for quite some time because a Racer hit the guardrail and smashed his car. The driver was ok but the race staff was paranoid (due to liability issues). After the finish line, the track lanes are offset and not totally straight. In the past I have seen several racecars swap lanes when trying to brake and turn to stay within their lanes. I have also inadvertently swapped lanes in the past at that location. Thankfully, I was always way ahead of the car in the other lane and thus avoided a collision. Ok, so my next run was a 6.30 at 112mph with 1.40--60 ft time. Since this is the equivalent of a 9 second quarter mile run I was told to go home. Been there, done that, no big deal. Wow, this time they hunted me down in the pits, like a wild animal. Then a tech staff members physically ripped my Racer's Wristband from my wrist to make sure that I don't attempt another run. The scene was so comical that I had to laugh, even though I felt humiliated. Since I do hope to race there again I controlled myself and did not say," Do you really think that just two of you are going to be able to get my wristband off me????" I'm hoping that it was only the crash that got everyone uptight and I can return in the near future to race again. Hanns http://album.hybridz.org/data/509/5-26-05_6_48.wmv

Mike, Before I went Twin Turbo my engine was quite similar to yours, except I had a TH400 trans and Ford 9" rear with 4.11 gears. My best time was 11.15 at 123 mph using the trans-brake to increase launch rpm. If your rear suspension can handle it a t-brake works. Your carb setting seems on the rich side. My best runs were with 69 primary and 79 secondary jets. If you are street driving the Z I would not make any changes except to lower the compression ratio and then Turbo, Supercharge, or Nitrous the engine. Hanns

Sean, Did you talk to the drivers of the 3 Z's that were racing last night? We would have provided much info. Did you see my red Z run 6.30 at 112 in the 1/8 th mile? Hanns

Tim, I have re-evaluated my earlier suggestion to go with the mini-tub version because that's the look I prefer. However, that does not reflect your true personality. You are more the FLAMBOYANT type ( As seen on TV ) and thus a wild a$$ flare suits you much better. LOL:) Hanns

Larry, I was planning to run my Z at Sacramento Raceway, later on this year. My goal was to grudge race you at that time and to show you what turbos are all about. However, upon seeing your new-found power, you may just wind up sending the TMeister back to school. :) BTW, make sure your cage will be NHRA certifiable so that you won't be continually kicked out like me. Hanns

I don't want to subject everybody here to more of the same videos. However, I will make a DVD which will include some of my slower 10 second runs in the quarter mile and the 1/8th mile runs that are already posted. If you are also interested I will include some video of the Z being worked on before fitting the turbos. PM your suggestions and address and give me a few days to get it done. Hanns

Tim, Do mini-tubs and tuck the tires inside the stock fenders. My 28" tall tires fit without modifying the wheel arch and they are 12" wide. And I could probably go to 13" wide tires without problems. Besides if your Z is too stable it won't be any fun. But your biggest problem is deciding what 'look' you want, Wild or Sleeper. You are paying for it so you make the decision. Hanns

Thanks for the info, I'll keep it in mind. Currently, the Z is making more than enough power for me (for now). Hanns

David, I've got a solid roller cam that is done at 6800 rpm, but I shift at 6500. It is not radical (242 duration with 114 LSA). Idle is 12 inches of hg and cruise is 18 inches. At the recent MSA Z Car Show, it idled and inched along for 30 minutes like a stocker. Even though my carb is set up on the rich side there is no black smoke from my exhaust. And during that 30 minutes of idling I didn't see the occupants of the car behind me gasping for air. Since I don't rev the engine past 6500 rpm I could have used a hydraulic cam as well. I never even notice that the turbos are there until I floor it. Hanns

David, I don't know how much power you want this engine to develop and how much you will be able to put to the ground, but you might think about my experiences. I can't afford to replace my current rotating assembly but I learned the hard way that it would have been best to buy short connecting rods and tall pistons. The top ring land should have as much material as possible for the extra strength needed to ward off detonation, high cylinder pressure and high temperatures at the piston crown. Since you need to run less compression ratio with a turbo engine, the piston dish and valve reliefs reduce the crown thickness as compared to a flat top piston. Then a stroker crank, or 6" rods, or both reduce the compression height of the piston and require oil ring support rails because the wristpin intrudes into the oilring groove. Yes, I've lost some pistons while I was figuring out the timing and fuel supply issues and it was always at the same point where the top ringland was thinnest due to the valve relief and dish. If I had to do it over again I would build a 350 c.i. engine with 5.7" rod and the heaviest pistons I could find. Ok, so I would lose some rpm due to the weight. And less displacement of the 383 would be a factor, but longevity would be better. Besides, I could just crank up the boost a little and make up the power. Of course, an intercooler and fresh air to the turbos would also help. Unless you are wealthy, building our Z's will always be frought with compromises. So I have what I have and I'm enjoying it. Good luck with your project. I'm excited to see more members considering V8 turbo installations. Hanns

Larry, Great dyno video and it sounds so good with those side pipes. Hanns

It looks like the rocker-arm-studs loosened up and allowed the pushrod side pressure to move the guideplates out of alignment. The subsequent off-center pounding of the rocker-arm by the valve-tip probably caused the damage. I have to use ISKY adjustable pushrod guideplates to center the valvetips on my Edelbrock jr heads. And I have virtually no clearance between some of the intake valve pushrods and the exterior of the port wall. Offset roller lifters would solve my problem. Hope your engine is not too badly wounded, internally. Hanns