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HybridZ

Turbo Meister

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Everything posted by Turbo Meister

  1. John, Are you planning to build your own horsepower monster? I use the Aeromotive regulator and I've never had a mechanical pump. Hanns
  2. John, I have never had the problem you described. My fuel pressure is set at 6 psi and it remains there while I'm cruising with 12 in. vacuum. Under full 17 psi boost the fuel pressure rises, 1 to 1, to 23 psi. Off boost it immediately drops back to 6 psi. My needle and seat has never been overwhelmed. I'm using the A1000 Aeromotive fuel pump and Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump set at 18 volts. The only problem I had was when the regulator could not return the excess fuel to the tank fast enough while idling in heavy traffic. The pressure would then rise up to 10 psi and cause rough running after some time. Now I use a 10 AN return line and should not have this problem. The fuel pump is providing 45 psi to the regulator at 12 volts so I know it's higher than that at 18 volts. Hanns
  3. I believe I mentioned to you previously that I have the E-trim, 80 A/R ratio Rajays. By only changing the turbine housings to 60 A/R ratio, the engine produced 30 psi boost. However, the Z could not handle the extra power and just melted my tires. Also my old fuel pump could not provide the required 36 psi pressure and melted a piston. Maybe I'll try the 60's again now that I have a better pump. :nono: And maybe a 2-step launch control will allow a low boost start. Hanns
  4. John, I have never had the problem you described. My fuel pressure is set at 6 psi and it remains there while I'm cruising with 12 in. vacuum. Under full 17 psi boost the fuel pressure rises, 1 to 1, to 23 psi. Off boost it immediately drops back to 6 psi. My needle and seat has never been overwhelmed. I'm using the A1000 Aeromotive fuel pump and Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump set at 18 volts. The only problem I had was when the regulator could not return the excess fuel to the tank fast enough while idling in heavy traffic. The pressure would then rise up to 10 psi and cause rough running after some time. Now I use a 10 AN return line and should not have this problem. The fuel pump is providing 45 psi to the regulator at 12 volts so I know it's higher than that at 18 volts. Hanns
  5. Thanks, Larry and guys. At my age you don't look forward to birthdays as much as when I was younger. However, my presents now are generally money, so I can buy parts for the Z. I've re-insulated the Z's interior and am cutting and gluing in the carpeting to accomodate the new rollcage. Once that's done, I'll get new mufflers and get my Competition license. Larry, I still plan on making a trip to your neighborhood. Have you had a chance to run your Z with the upgrades? Sometimes I think I'm crazy, for wanting to run 9 second quarter mile times for a man my age (my wife thinks so). I hope you guys don't feel the same but if you do give me your opinion.
  6. I bought the polymer gear for my distributor but have not yet run the engine to tell you if it is, in fact, better than the bronze gear. I have a 3500-3800 converter that seems to work well. Just make sure you get front and rear anti-balooning plates on it. Hanns
  7. Awesome......How does it run?Look at all the room in front of the engine...Nice Job.
  8. Yes, I think the custom roller is a better choice. It still has more lift and duration than mine...but it's closer. Looks like you're making good progress... can't wait to hear about the first drive. Hanns
  9. This is a well-worn cliche but people who are looking at my Z have made this statement a number of times and with different interpretations. "The best of both worlds". Some mean the best on the street and on the the strip; others mean a classic import body and a classic domestic V8 engine. But I like the current slogan. Hanns
  10. I'm using 2 Rajays on my 383 Chevy engine. They are 15 years old but work ok. I don't think I would have bought them because they are primitive but a friend gave them to me. There are only 3 compressor sizes and limited turbine housing sizes. Bearings are semi-floating and not water cooled. But I'm not complaining. Hanns
  11. It looks great!!! You are so close to being done. I found out it isn't so much the radiator as it is the airflow through it that determines cooling temperatures. Even in 100 degree weather I have no cooling problems with the Taurus 2 speed electric fan. In response to your post about fearing for my life...I'm good, now that the NHRA has blessed my new roll cage with certification down to 7.50 in the quarter mile. So obviously, regardless of how fast I run I will never be harmed. Hanns
  12. Good Video. Z sounds and looks awesome. Love that color (for obvious reasons). Hanns
  13. I have an original 72 spare hood from the ECOLOGY CENTER that I paid $25 for. However, it is worthless because it has absolutely no rust and no dents, anywhere. Hanns
  14. Here is a pic of how the cage attaches to the strut tower. The tower has 1/8th steel plate welded around it from top to subframe and cage bar terminates at tower. I found a can of spray paint that matches engine compartment paint quite well. Will post more pics of cage when It is painted (Already bought several cans of "metallic night black"). Hanns
  15. Wow, there is progress. Can't wait to hear about your first drive-I still remember mine (Sledge hammer to chest-unable to reach shifter for second gear) . Hanns
  16. A 3/16" channel iron was welded to the front subframes from the radiator support to the firewall of my Z. A motor plate supports the engine by solid mounts attached to the re-enforced frame. The trans uses a urethane bushed mount. Since my engine is not that radical ( turbo Cam) I don't notice much vibration. But the 4 link rear suspension can be bouncy on rough roads. Front suspension is all stock , so it's ok. Most of the time I don't notice the quality of the ride because I'm hanging onto the steering wheel for "dear life". Hanns
  17. Your Z is flying!!!Be careful if you get that converter .....you'll be in the 10's:-D . Hanns
  18. The only way that's going to happen is if you do the tuning for me. Hanns
  19. Just received my Innovate LM-1 and RPM kit to properly tune my Holley carb on the TT383. Summit advertises the kit at $429.95 before shipping charges are added. I called Competition Cams ( they now own Innovate ) and received the kit for $372 including shipping. Don't buy the kit from their web site because they charge the higher price. Just make a telephonic order for the cheaper price. The kit is very complete with lots of cables, software, and even a weld-in bung and plug for the O2 sensor. It'll be some time before I install the kit but thought I would let you guys know of the lower price in case anyone is interested. Hanns
  20. Looks great. Should do the job. Keep the progress pics coming. Hanns
  21. I'm currently using the Aeromotive 1000 electric fuel pump and carb regulator combination on my TT383 Chevy engine. The pump is rated at 45 psi and my regulator has no problem reducing this pressure to the carb down to 6-7 psi while off boost. This system works because any pressure, above what the regulator is adjusted to, will return to the tank via the bypass line. Hanns
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