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HB280ZT

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Everything posted by HB280ZT

  1. Nice work. I am looking at fixing up a set of 240 bumpers for my 280 but I thought you had to remove the chrome before you could do any welding or powder coating? So what to do? Do I just grind away and then plug the holes and grind some more. Then use something like a metal filler before powder coating. HB280ZT
  2. Hi All, I did a search but could not find any answers to my problem! Well I am having an issue with one of my rebuilt rear wheel hubs, installed new bearings and seals. I am getting about .05" of play in the hub after a rebuild, the FSM says .005 is the max play. I have torqed it to about as much as my tools can support. So what can I do to fix this problem?? Thanks for your help. HB280ZT
  3. I am currently running 225/50R 15 on my Snowflake rims with an 82 5 speed, 3.90 rear gears with the correct tranny gear. My street tires are BFG G-Force sports and they are pretty good on street and I even autocrossed them last year with good results. Hope this helps! HB280ZT
  4. Guys, thanks for the pictures that is what I was looking for. Now can you tell how the dampener works on this setup? Does it have 6 spots on the dampener or just 1? Thanks HB280ZT
  5. I used PCM for less to reprogram my LT1 in my 96 Impala SS and they did a very good job. http://www.pcmforless.com/ Not to mention they even came to one of our local dyno days to program peoples car, very nice! Got an extra 15 hp out of mine on the dyno, not bad. HB280ZT
  6. I have a Hobart 175 which is a Miller with a Hobart cover on it. I love the unit and if I remember correctly I got it for $550 dropped shipped to my house. Now that was a few years ago but the extra money for the 220 vs 110 was worth it. Because for some reason now that I hve the bigger unit I can weld pretty much anything that I want to weld and I have. Now if I can only find the time and space to start building my new car trailer, hum!!! As for practice get a few good welding books and start reading. Also see if you can find a scrap metal dealer and get lots of little peices of metal different sizes and thicknesses and have fun! You know weld them and then try and brake them apart. I got a 80 series C25 tank and it works just great. Another thing that I did was that I found a old metal 2 drawer cabinet and I used it as my body for my cart. Now I have room to store stuff with the welder and I built the rest to fit my needs. Not to mention it is a good first project! Also something else to get from HF is magent holders: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1938 you can never have enough of these and you can always find them on sale. Happy welding! HB280ZT
  7. Hi All, I am looking for some pictures of an 81 turbo CAS and dampener. I was thinking about using them or atleast the mounting hardware and the dampener in an EDIS-6 setup with my MS unit. So if anyone can help me out thanks! HB280ZT
  8. Yea I was referring to some time spent in El Salvador, CA (Central America, not the Rupublic of California). I was looking at purchasing a new Chevy S-10 4 door, 4WD with a 2.8 liter turbo diesel and a 5 speed. The truck was fully loaded by there standards and it only cost $19,000.00. The truck got 35 mpg city and over 45 mpg on the highway. But for some reason the EPA will not allow us to import these vehicals into the country, something about not meeting EPA guide lines. Well I did a little research and at the time there were no guide lines for small diesel truck emissions so they were blowing smoke. So the million dollar question is why are they against people importing vehicals or engines that get good fuel mileage, or is the EPA owned and operated by the oil companies, something to think about!!!! Enough of my soap box. HB280ZT
  9. Ok, now that I know people are using the CSR pump how about some pictures and some measurements??? Please!! I really want to know where they got the mounting bracket and if the unit is any longer then the stock setup with pulley?? HB280ZT
  10. While I was in Central America a few years ago I saw alot of Chevys, Toyota, Nissan and Izusu pickup truck running 2.5 thru 3.0 turbo diesel, most were 6 cylinders. Not sure what the HP rating was on the engines but they did say that they got upwards of 45mpg on the road!! So if you can get south of the border see what you can find! HB280ZT
  11. Something to think about guys! If you go with a 4.3 chevy you can get a twin turbo setup from Gale Banks that will fit a SBC so why not the 4.3?? If I remember correctly he was getting between 600-700 hp using very little boost and pump gas on a pretty standard SBC. Also I think he ran a TT4.3 in one of his race trucks that he ran at the old salt flats. So if you ask the right questions he may have some good information that may help you get the right setup for your TT4.3! Just a thought! HB280ZT
  12. As for HP. In the Impala SS world we saw an increase of 9hp on an LT1 motor using an electric water pump, and it stays cooler when idling in traffic. Hope this helps. Any idea of the measurement of the CSR unit with adapter? HB280ZT
  13. From what I can find I would still pay the extra for the V3 board that way you do not have to wire in a HEI module! That way when you get your V3 board fixed you will have a spare! But that is just my .02! HB280ZT
  14. If you are having problems with your MS board you can always contact Peter from his web site http://www.firstfives.org/. He specializes in fixing build problems on MS units. I would do that before I buy another unit. HB280ZT
  15. Kris, The million dollar question is what are you trying to do?? That will help us give you better information on what you need. HB280ZT
  16. Hi All, Well I have been working on my 1977 Z for many years now and I still can not figure out how I am getting water in the drivers side floor board of the car. This is what I have done so far. Over the winter I had the interior out of the car to include the dash. I replaced the floor boards and made sure the floors where well sealed. I checked the entire area under the dash for rust or holes, none found. I checked the rubber socks used to channel water from the air intake area to the fender area, they were in good shape. I have also sealed the windshield to the gasket and the gasket to the metal frame. I made sure the kick panel air vents gaskets were in good shape and installed correctly. Also my car has the fender well covers were in place. So what else can I try or do?? I am out of ideas now and I really hate to take my car apart to dry it out after it gets rained on at work!! Thanks for the help. HB280ZT
  17. Forrest, I am currently running a V3 board using a stock 82 280ZXT distributor. I followed the information in this writeup to wire the distributor and the car runs pretty good: http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_280zx_turbo.htm I am also running the 29q2 code plus high impedence 460cc injectors and other items of interest. If you need anymore information drop me a line and I will see what I can do. HB280ZT
  18. Thanks for the information. I have been thinking about new seats but I have not found what I am looking for. Mostly because I want to seat in them before I put out and money on seats. So for now I as still looking. As for alignment I have had my car on some scales last time I was at the track. I also have a custom setup on my car with 3 deg caster and 1.5 deg camber. I can put more caster in but I am getting to the point that I may have to either bend the forward edge of the fender or try something else. As for camber I think I can go to about 2 deg with the current setup I have. If I want more I will nee to build another set of LCA's. As for tires I am leaning towards Kumho victor racers or the 710. However is rear camber important in a race car?? So again thanks for the .02! HB280ZT
  19. OK guys. I have been working on my car off and on for about a year now and I have been having fun racing it when I can (autocross and 1 track day so far). The car is a daily driver to that should limit some of the things that I can do to it. I also plan on racing it more this year to hopefully include more track days. Here is what I have done so far: New springs – 180 Front and 200 rear (Arizona Z) Struts – KYB gr2 I think Sway bars – 1 1/8 front 7/8 rear Brakes: Front – Wilwood 4 calipers (Arizona Z) Rear – disc conversion 15/16 master cylinder Proportioning valve PDK strut bars front and rear Adjustable LCA’s and T/C rod Poly bushings all the way around 82 turbo Z motor, tranny and rearend (3.90) Intercooler Oil cooler Cold air system 3 inch mandrel exhaust with high flow muffler MS&S-E V3 Other engine and turbo mods BFG 225/50R15 G-Force Sport tires (work pretty good on the track) G-Force 4 point harness Roll Bar So my question is what should I do next? 1 – Sticky tires, Kumho Victor racers, 700, 710 etc. 2 – Adjustable rear control arms, MML 3 – Koni 8610 adjustable struts 4 – Better Seats??? 5 - ??? I know the nut behind the wheel needs help but I am working on that with a stick every chance I get!! Thanks for the help! HB280ZT
  20. I have a 77 280Z also and what I did was run a new wire (12 gauge) to the pump from the relay box of my MS. However prior to that I used a relay to power the fuel pump by hooking the old pump wiring to the relay and a new 12 gauge wire from the battery. I also helped the ground wire by using a 12 gauge wire off of the pump to a good chassis ground and then adding the original pump ground to that ground point. Also I am running an MSD fuel pump and it works just great. Hope this helps. HB280ZT
  21. The only thing that I can say is to keep the pressure low 40-50 psi and make sure you have the other line pluged, ie if you are blowing out the supply line then plug the return and visa verse!! Also put something like a rag over the inspection hole just in case you get some fuel spray! HB280ZT
  22. Here is something that I did when I thought I had tank problems. On my 77 there is an inspection lid on the passenger side near the spare tire in the rear of the car. This lid gives you access to the fuel level guage. I pulled the lid and the guage to inspect my fuel tank. That is when i found out that mine was toast! Also at that time you can try to back flush the fuel lines with some compressed air. Hope this helps! HB280ZT
  23. Well for starts disconnect the trigger wire to your coil so you do not shock yourself again. Oh yea cover the wire so it does not ground out. Now how do you have your LED's set up? Mine are setup this way! LED 17 Spark output A LED 18 IRQ trigger LED Acceleration This information is under Basic Settings, codebase and outputs funtions on my MegaTune 2.25 running code 29q2. When I rotate my distributor I would get an LED 18 and the fuel pump would prime. That is how I figured out that my timing was correct. Also I marked my harmonic balancer by putting tape on the damper and marking the first 30 degrees and then moving the 30 degree mark to 0 and then marking the next 30 degrees. This will work all the way around the dampener if you need to do this. Hope this helps. HB280ZT
  24. The trick that I used was to remove the cap, rotor and the metal cover on the distributor and look at the 6 inner slots. If you are not rotating over one of the slots you will never get a trigger. I hope this helps some. HB280ZT
  25. BRAAP, I am using a relay board but I did not route the fan control through there. What I did is add a DB9 to my MS and ran the fan wire from there to an external mounted relay then to the fan. So far it cools the car very well even though I have a few items in front of the radiator. Like a large air filter, an intercooler, a oil cooler ( not hooked up yet) and my A/C unit. I have not ran the A/C to see how it will affect the cooling of the car, mostly because it will not run right now. Plan on troubleshooting it later next week. I hope this helps some. HB280ZT
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