love-my-V8-280Z

Bart, I'm sure you know this, but as I was thinking about how to use the PCM to manage my A/C I found that it has the ability to bump up the RPM when the A/C is on. It would seem that you could figure out how to let the PCM know you A/C is on and to turn the RPM some.

I would bet there is relay, They would not want to run that much current thru the key. Find a wiring diagram and it will show you. My 78 does have a relay and i think it was under the passanger seat

ed, I don't have a book to recommend but I can tell you this, If you are just going to buy some switch's each switch will tell you its max amp and volt rating. If you are going to run a lot of power than buy a relay and make sure it too can handle the total amps. Very simple to install once someone explaines it to you.

Thank you for sharing...

Bart, I hope you post the results. jbc3 comments seem very useful. When I view the voltage of my 02 sensors on my scan tool they are all over the place. I was told that this was normal. It seems by jbc3's comments using the data master software things should be more stable. I should get my pcm back from AKM electronics Monday or Tuesday and I expect to have some of my own issues...Also check your yahoo email...

I don't understand why it insists on downloading as a html but I just changed the file to a uni after I downloaded it and it works fine. Now I wish I had some advise for your problem... I don't...

Bartman, I tried to download your data file and it saves as a test2.htm file. If I just double click it, a screen of code shows up..

Well, I have the 16 pin connector. I did check all the wires from the plug to the PCM, the ground and hot.. They all checked out fine for continuity and voltage. If its the general option that I have a bad connection, which would not surprise me I had one on the Alternator plug that I think cost me $55 for a rebuilt Alt.. I will check the wires again, does anyone think I could have problems like this if I have a pinched or grounded wire from the PCM to some other motor component?? I will post what I find, maybe help someone else someday..

Here are a couple pics you find useful.

Guy, Your advice has helped me out several times... The whole problem is odd. I have uploaded and downloaded several times. The car had been sitting for a while and I had just finished up a few lose ends and wanted get in and get the speedo set right. I first downloaded the .bin file, did one small change and tried to upload it. I get a no computer response return. I have a scan tool that I have used on the car in the past also just checking things out and it comes back no computer response also. It tells me to check the plug connection. The S.E.S light is on all the time. Even after I un hook the battery.. This I don't think is normal; it should be off after resetting it. Than come on as new errors are reported. Any advice is appreciated. Terry

I have a 95 LT1, it runs, but when I try to read the computer with my edit software I get a no computer response, I attached my scan tool and it can't get a response. I have checked all hot and ground wires, they are fine. I have checked the wires to the data link connecter and they are fine. The service engine soon light is always on. And I have left the computer with out power and it don't help. The service engine soon light comes on instantly. The first time I noticed I had a problem I hooked up my Edit program and uploaded the pcm file, after that no more responses. I have checked a lot of wires and find nothing wrong. It was working fine. All I have done is added is a fan relay and I unhooked it with no help.. Anyone ever have a problem like this or any ideas what I should do next?? Thanks.. Terry

I have used flex tube for the radiator, There is no way to clap a tee into the flex hose. I did buy the tee from JTR but finding a pre-made hose that would fit was next to impossible. So if I understand Mark correct, I can take the steam line from the back of the heads and tie it into the heater core line.... And if I read grummpyvettes chart correcly I can gain HP also!!!

I do not have any measurements. I have some photos of how I traced out the needed plates from paneling, than after refining the wood I traced it onto steel. My comments about the A/C hitting the frame rail were regarding the A/C in its stock position. I do not have the easy answer to moving the A/C, I can only tell you how to trace and copy it yourself.

Guy, Are you saying you are running your LT1 with the throttle body tubes plugged? Mark, What have you learned that indicates that I should run a hose from the throttle body T'ed into a heater hose?? Thanks again

I would like to just not mess with the LT1 throttle body cooling lines, has anyone just plugged them off and found this to not cause any issues?? Thanks.

I just posted photos of my LT1 with the A/C monted high and on the Drivers side. Look in the history, if you cant find it,, email me and I can send you a pic

Are you working at building a motor that will run well, not kill the gas mileage and still keep you happy with the money invested? Can you achieve all this and exceed 400 HP? That is my goal, do you have any idea what to expect for gas mileage? Please tell me what upgrades your are planning to reach your HP goal. You may be going in the same direction I would like too, and if you do not mind, I could follow your lead.

excellent advise! It turns out you can't slap some heads and a cam in and instantly have 400 HP. Thanks for your feed back, I will call Loyd when I'm ready to spend the money.

I just checked out the advanced induction web site.. It seems they have it figured out. It seems to good to be true.. Do you have any feed back? I don't understand head flow rates at all and would not know a good head if I saw one.

Bartman, WOW!! I figured the heads would be complete.. HP sure can cost a lot! Have you investigated the real HP numbers with the LT4 kit.... It seems my $2000 100 HP upgrade just went out the window.. Is a turbo the only way? Maybe just add the Nitro? Whats your thoughts?

I have read that the LT4 kit is not made anymore, and I have read several times that it does not produce the HP its advertised too. What is the Advance Induction packages??

Yes, the JTR kits is the way to go. I tried to skimp several times and its my option that I would have been best off to buy there set back plate, trans cross member, radiator and its supports... My time is worth money and sometimes I plan something to be quick and cheap and I end up doing it twice... I have installed the 95 LT1 and learned a lot in the process. If you want a photo of the set back plates send me an email...

I just browsed Summit's web site, It would cost $5,000 plus to buy a carbureted motor with 400 HP. I paid $1,500 for mine and for about $2,300 more; I can have 400 HP. that is a total investment of $3,800. I think I would get decent gas mileage too. No disrespect to the turbo idea but having to work up a new pulley route so I can keep my A/C seems like a big hassle.