love-my-V8-280Z

Well I was hoping for some "that’s the way to go for sure!" I thought about the build a motor idea, but I think money wise the cam and head upgrade is simple. And the nitrous is great because it only gets applied when you put the petal to the floor.. To be honest, from what I have read it would be hard to get the value of the HP because its so hard to get traction.. Is this as simple an upgrade as it appears? or will I need a lot of computer mods that cost more money?

Post a pic when you get a chance..

Davy, Do you have any idea what kind of HP I would get with the Turbo??

Jim this question should be in the body work area... And I have read that there full fenders do not fit well at all...

As in less money and more experence?

I have a 95 LT1 with about 70,000 miles on it. I have decided to add the Elliott LE2 head kit for $1,650.. This requires a 58 MM throttle body $ 350.00 and at least 32 lbs injectors for another $300.00 That should get me to about 400 HP. I can add a bottle of nitrous for another $500 for another 100 HP.. Thing is I have no idea about the nitro install yet. I see Summit sells a holly throttle body that supports nitrous but it cost $515.00. Should I buy this throttle body in case I decide to add the nitrous?? In addition, will these upgrades destroy the bottom end of my motor? Am I asking too much from this engine with out a rebuild? I have the money and not the experience. Am I making a mistake here? Any feed back from experienced operators is greatly appreciated!!

Excellent, I will study my helms manual and see if I can figure it out.. Thanks!

Bartman, I don't want to start it in gear, I know a guy who was building a very expensive sports car and went out to the garage to let his freind hear it run and he reached in the door and turned the key, of course it started right up and took off through the garage door.. I can just see myself making such a stupid mistake...

Well thanks,,, One more question, does anyone know if a T56 has a built in switch that opens and closes when in and out of gear?

I have my LT1 installed in my 280Z and was just reading old posts and realized I never addressed the problem of the car starting in gear. I installed the T56.. The issue never even dawned on me.. Can someone tell me how to address this issue?

I found I could not not install my LT1 with the A/C installed because it hit the frame rail. I'm not sure if just a pulley would hit or not. I think it would.

Thanks, Yes Im asking if I can graft urathane to fiberglass, if not, is there a urathane grafting product I should be using?

I have bought a urethane air dam and fiberglass side skirts from MSA. And yes the side skirts SUCK! There is a huge gap along the bottom edge between the body and side skirt, at least one inch. Question, when I install the air dam can I use fiberglass to make the urethane mold to the body? Will they bond together? Regarding the side skirts, I do not see how I can make them fit with out bolting them to the body. There is going to be constant tension, I need to post some pics. I don’t see how I can not bond the side skirt to the body and make it look right. I bought the Ztherapy fiberglass installation and repair advanced bodywork video and he is gluing the font and rear fiberglass air dam and rear bumper mold to the steel body and filling the gaps with fiberglass (and using bolts). From what I have read in the history its suggested that you should not bond them together as it WILL crack sooner rather than later.. Any feed back from someone that has done this would be great! THANKS!!

I'm justing getting my LT1 ready for the street. Can anyone tell me what a dyno run and tune might cost? I have Zero idea what to expect.

I live in the states and had to drive 4 hrs to get a totaled 95 Camero minus all the parts they wanted to keep... Paid $3000.00 Did a lot of shopping, getting a complete car that I could hear run was hard to find.

I bought a air compressor and a sand blasting pot, did the work myself and have used them many times on small parts. Also have made a few freinds too. Anyway, I tried many different sandblasting media, I finely just buy kids play sand. Works fine. One thing, I did learn the hard way, its almost impossible to sandblast big areas of sheet metal with out it warping. Its better to get a D/A and some paper rip the surface areas like the top of the car and the top of the hatch. Stick to having the edges sandblasted and the hard to reach spots. And yes no matter how much taping and covering a ton of sand will find its way into the car and things like the steering wheel bearings! To really make you day wait until you go and try to paint the door jamb and all of a sudden this sand comes from know where and peppers the paint! Another thing, after you have sand blasted the edges, under body, engine compartment etc etc, and sanded off all the other paint you will than want to fine sand the steel to smooth it up and take off any missed stuff. Than put a coat of urathane primmer on it. My ca has been sitting like this for several years while I install the motor and upgrade the interior. I will say this, my primer doe not seem to have stuck to the metal as well as I think it should have. I don't know if I mixed the paint to thick or what. Its just that the few times I have chipped the paint or bent a piece of metal it comes off to easy.

I posted the picture in the photo gallery. I don't know why it came out so small. I have the photo somewhere I will look for it. Figured it out, I had post the thumb nail data. DJ, You should have smelled the gas that came out of this car, like nothing you have evered smelled before!

I tried to buy a Cowl hood from JC Whitney a couple years ago and they no longer sell them for the Datsun. I ended up buying the same hood as in the E-bay photo, got it home worked on it, decided it was more lift than I wanted. I than bought a steel hood from a yard in California. I have seen cowl hoods with a 2" lip on other cars I just can't find one for sale. I paid $300 and about $80 for Grey hound shipping.

I have a cowl hood for sale if anyone wants it. Its a 2 or 3 inch lift. Its in good shape and fits well but still needs some finish work. I bought it used, started to finish it up and desided Its more lift than I like.

I did cut my tank in half. I cut the top off from the bottom. I sand blasted the inside, than brazed it back together, I but an air hose in the tank and sprayed the outside with soap, fix a couple spots that leaked and afterward poured in the tank sealer. I painted the tank than put it back on. I have not driven the car any yet. Its been sitting with gas in it for several years as I work on it. One note: There is a very fine brass screen over the intake hose in the tank. Any tank coating will plug it off guaranteed!!!!