love-my-V8-280Z

I will get a angle finder and get it figured out over the holiday weekend, Thanks again.

Is this looking at them from the side or the top?

I agree! I had placed my opti spark on the cam shaft pin wrong and had a heck of a time figure out why it was running so bad. I think the best of us make these little mistakes. Its all part of the fun!

Got it! It’s hard to understand when talking parrallel and vertical. The way you explained tipping the engine and the differential made it easy to understand. I have no misunderstandings about the issue now.. Thanks Again...

John, Thanks, but I don't understand it. I have read other comments close to the same..Dont' you think the way I explained it will work? What I don't understand is What is critical is a PARALLEL match, on the VERTICAL plane. Ok, tell me if I got it, I need to make sure the transmission is level in the up and down movment, so that it is level with the dif. I understand the side to side movement of the trans is not important, Also did I understand you right, you used steel to fill in the gap between the trans and the trans support? I was going to user a rubber disk the thickness I needed to get the level I need to match the trans with the dif... Thanks for your input

Excellent! I have been working on a lt1 upgrade for years.. I feel into the more,more, more trap.. Keep us posted, I hope I can offer help as other have me in the future..

I just installed a new drive shaft on my 280Z with a LT1 T56. I did some studying from archives and found I need about 1 degree of angle. Now I installed the drive shaft and the Transmission cross bar. I placed a level on the solid steel slab under the dif, I think it’s just a skid plate. I level this point by adjusting the car stands. Now with the car level, I adjusted the distance between the transmission and the cross member until the drive shaft was also level.. Now if I just add the 1 degree of adjustment to the transmission by shimming the cross member don't think this should work? Thanks, guys I would not have been able to do this project with out this site..

I had to make the same decision. I went with the LT1. I wondered the Internet found a LT1/T56 for $3,000. Called the junkyard told them I wanted the motor and the car, had to hear it run. I was driving from 4hrs. Anyway, I got there they had stripped this smashed up 95 Camero and had it running for me... Many hours later, its cleaned up, and in my 280Z.. Running!! Still a long way from finished but it starts on a dime. Did not have to touch a thing regarding tuning or adjustments. I should have 280 HP and real good gas mileage. For $1700 I can buy the LT4 kit and jump it to 425 HP... Heads cam and intake.. Motor went in like a piece of cake. Did have to study the wiring and learn to understand it. That is a handful of work you do not have to do with a carb. Also a lot of extra wires to manage,, I think I'm prouder of this achievement than if it was a carbed 350..

Any computer from a 800 MGHZ and up will do. watch out, newer computers don't have a serial port, or so I was told.. Never checked myself.. Anyway the program don't need much horse power to run.

I agree, I have read over and over that its not worth buying a larger MAS. Also have read that some people have regreted removing the fin and screen, I don't remember why...

Bartman, I'm installing a LT1-T56 into my 78 Z. I have the motor in and running. Installed the computer under the dash. I't not on the road so I can't say if it will cause problems but I don't see why it would. If you want to see pics just send me your email address.. I love sharing photos!

The motor mounts have to be made of steel, that has been discussed before and I think most agree it would be foolish to use anything else. Also I tryed to make my own, I used a saw zaw and a eletric drill. I ended up tossing them and bying JTR, there are a few things that you should by from them. this is one unless you can use a shop.

You can use any software to view the vin off the computer. here is a view of what I get off tuner cat

I think it sounded Great!

Dans very right, I went and bought the steel and tryed to fab my own. When I punched and drilled the holes they are off just a 1/8 or so. that is a lot when you are trying to line up 3 holes, I went and drilled the holes out a little bigger. Well gave it some thought and figured that it was just to much risk to have the motor shifting back and forth a 1/8" or more over and over... I think in the time it would get lose and sloppy, maybe break.. I also tryed to find the raditor he recommends and could not. I just forked over the $250 for his radiator and suport brackets, which look very nice. Probably could have saved $70, but I know lots of people that have to pay $250 for a new radiator...

I'm no expert but I would not do it. I believe you will gain a few HP's maybe, but I don't think its a gain worth the dollars. One thing two, don't you think the motor manufacture would have install a smaller pulley if it increased the HP? Something get popular and they are all gimmickry ...

If it was a 78 I could help you. you will find you need all of them unless you are doing a V8 swap. I have the owners manual for my car, it tells me what each one is. there are several more in my car. Maybe you can find a person with a 73 owners manual and they could scan and emial the photo that labels them.

Im impressed! That is a tight fit, if you were the first to install one I can only beguin to imagin how hard it must have been. Do you have any Idea how will it well compete with a 240-280Z with the same HP?

I read that eletromagnite interferance could cause PCM problems and that you should shield the wire that supply the pcm with power so it dont act up. Sound like you did not and it is not necessary.... That removes one concern...

Your right, your idea has helped me, I did some mods to the datsun wiring and have the computer ground the datsun fuel pump relay, so when you sudjested constant power it made me think, I bet I over looked something and the fuel pump relay is not closing when it should be. did you sheild any of your wiring?

Guy, I did it! as soon as I reinstalled the Optispark it fired in 2 cranks! A dam nice design these LT1's. Anyway don't put to much effort into this, but it runs for a few sec's and quites. I don't here the fuel pump running and with out any looking I think its the problem, I do not have the radiatior hooked up, do you think the PCM knows this? thanks for your help., I'm not going to put to much effort into figureing it out until I get water to it... But I'm sure glad I have hearing it run behind me.. the rest shoud be easy. One more question, I read somewhere that sheilding the hot wires around the PCM is important. what do you think? I have a mess of wires all around the PCM, its a tight fit under the hood.

Dale, Sounds like you going to have a real nice ride! What kind of HP do you think it will produce? I just heard my 78 start for the first time yesterday since I pulled the orginal motor out over 3 years ago. I installed a 95 LT1 and nothing went perfect. Even now it runs but I can't juice it or it stalls, I turn the key off and it stays running and when I unhook the battery it stops, (now in the old days that ment the alt was not working)... But other than the petty set backs I'm enjoying myself! I need to rap up the transmission support and driveshaft next.. And a heads up you can fit that computer under the dash if you like, when you unplug the dash to remove it, behind the glove box, the plugs are in a plastic frame up against the fire wall. I removed the frame and used its suppports to hold the PCM. Its a tight fit but I feel a good spot. If you like to see it just hit me up for a photo. Good luck, glad to see another 78 Z on the roa

Love the hood! Are you looking for numbers to evaluate sales?

If you find they don't work, you will be able to find out which ones will here in a serch. If you need I can look up what I bought, they fit fine.

Phantom, What is the problem? I will need my windshild reinstalled and maybe you can help me not have the same probelms. Terry