240Z2NV

I concur....keep looking, there are MUCH better deals out there. Try http://www.craigslist.org if there is 'one' in your area. Got my '01 COMPLETE and delivered for $3k....everything, even stuff I didn't need (all accessories, exhaust,....)

Did several searches (possibly in wrong forum); but, came up with little. I have read that some of you have used Solex locks for doors. I am shaving my door locks and installing power door locks, and keeping the hatch 'unmolested' as my entry back-up. I would, however, like to install a better lock/release for the hatch. Have any of you modified their external rear hatch lock assembly with satisfactory results? Upgraded pieces? Please either respond here or directly ( handymanstan@comcast.net ) with suggestions, and possibly pics. Again, many have installed 'poppers', and that is cool; but not what I'm looking for...I'm looking for a non-electric method. Thanks very much in advance!!

At just about any Pick-n-Pull JY, there is a guy set up outside rekeying locks, ignitions, etc. You can go into the yard, pull the necessary pieces, go outside and have him rekey them all to match one key (even the glove compartment). I have done this several times. It is usually less than $10 per lock. Best to bring the key that you want to start with. my .02

fischer183 Tim240Z has a pretty straightforward design that he allowed me to copy. It doesn't have the 'bling factor' of billet aluminum; but, it works fine. I completely understand if you're waiting for the matching 'bling' to go with that finned cover. IF, however, you just need function, I have diff covers that do NOT require a new lower transverse link from later model units (function over form, or form over function?).....

I agree with Datsunlover. Maybe get an inexpensive siphon that you attach to a drill motor and try that, or just turn tank up and swish it out of filler hole (?). Try posting it on the Chevy thread, someone should jump on it. If I didn't already have my set-up, I would!

I'm going to throw my 'stats' in followed by a disclaimer of sorts. Vehicle: '73 shell (and I mean Non-rolling SHELL!) Engine: '00 LS1/T56 from a TA w/ 48k miles, Lunati cam 225/576/112, ported TB, LS6 Intake, Sanderson 1 3/4" headers (JTR), ported oil pump, JTR radiator & mount, LS2 coil packs, Z06 clutch assembly, Q45 VLSD diff w/ 3.54s, LS1 'plastic' fuel tank, dual 2 1/2" exhaust, dual resonators, Magnaflow X pipe, Magnaflow round mufflers, LS1 edit & custom harness courtesy of mas280, keyless ignition, Taurus 2 spd fan w/Volvo relay Mounts: homemade w/ mas280 as template, redrilled moustache bar, custom front diff mount, custom trans mount, accessory mounts courtesy of mas280 as template Accessories: double layer peel 'n seal (Dynamat alternative), push button start, RX7 (FD3S) 'suede' seats, JDM 280Z tail lights, Ground Control coilovers, 240SX/300ZX rear brakes (five lug), front brakes (tbd), Autometer Phantom gauges, custom dash center piece, custom 'one-off' hood venting, power door locks (keyless doors), suspension pieces 'in works' (adjustable camber plates, LCAs, TC rods), chassis reinforcing top (engine compartment & rear shock towers) & bottom (subframe connectors, sway bar 'blocks'), Silverstar headlights Date started: March '04 (Switched 'shells' and drivetrain and started over from initial Jan. '04 start) Completion date: Nowhere in sight...attributed to funds, unmanaged "A.D.D.", and LIFE!

You can find decent 240Zs all day long for a hybridization on http://www.craigslist.org for very little $$. Just keep looking, there are TONS of them in CA for sale.

Since this is in the 'Chevy V8' forum, I assume that you've done some sort of hybridization. Why not go with the 'plastic' tank that many have used? They can be had for $100-175 complete, and don't require a ton of fabbing to mount. The best sources for these are: LS1.com and LS1Tech.com

Jaime240Z be sure that you tell him what car your diff came from to avoid any confusion/interpretation of "R200" I believe that he offers them machined for both (wide & narrow holes).

I concur with Mikelly. Those sites are GREAT resources. LS1Tech is generally the higher 'asking priced' site of the three. I have purchased ALOT off of all three; but, I have found corvetteforum and LS1.com to have fewer 'money driven' people in the For Sale forums. As with any other site, there are scammers there too, so use your best judgement.....

Sent "Jerry" an email. Hopefully, he'll get back to me......love the pieces!

Those mirrors in MikeKZ's post USED to be called "Vittaloni 'California'" mirrors IIRC. They were sold at generic autoparts chains like PepBoys, Schucks, Kragen.... Didn't think that they made them still, I remember them from like 20+ years ago. Maybe try eBay, or google "vittaloni".......

The Driver's side is fine, relative to the seating position; but, for decent visibility on the Passenger's side, relative to the Driver's line-of-sight, you will find it better to move it as far forward on the door as possible. Many late model cars have slightly varied mirrors driver's vs. passenger's (Mercedes is the first one that comes to mind). I can't explain it very well, so my easiest suggestion would be to duct tape the mirror in the 'approximate' spot, then sit in the seat and check your field-of-view. In my experience doing the OE mirror 'switch', I got the best view with the mirror about 3" forward of the placement point on the Driver's side as I recall (ymmv). I wish that I could elloquently convey viewing angles, seating position, area to be viewed, etc.

I saw one of these configurations at the MSA West Coast Nationals last year. Sorry, didn't take any pics. Your radiator/engine sure will be vulnerable though. True the OE bumpers offer next to nothing; but, trucker retreads come flyin' off, and it's all over. I had one hit me in the face while riding a motorcycle, I got pretty 'jacked up'.

Thanks for sharing!! It's so great when someone provides those kind of details (part numbers, source, $$). I was going to use the JTR recommended Volvo fan relay that I found at the JY; nevertheless, this is great info. P.S. I'm a stone's throw down the fwy in Vallejo. You should bring your hybrid by sometime, and give me your assessment of my project (still on the rotisserie after a year!!)

Those front lower suspension pieces are really beautiful!! You detailed the parts for the LCAs; how about the breakdown for the TC rods? It looks like that endpiece that mounts to the framerail could even accomodate a bushing to buffer road harshness...source? Thanks! Great job!!

I've got several Q45 R200 VLSDs and inner CV sets. The only advantage to the eBay auction posted is that the outer CVs are four bolt and the axles are there (may or may not need length altered) which might make for an easier swap. The Q45 has six bolts, needs adapters (for earlier Zs), has lower ratio (3.54:1 vs. 3.70:1). Yes, moustache bar needs redrilling (couple of good bits, thread cutting oil and a drill press), rear transverse lower brace needs altering if using 'finned' cover, and axles need to be ordered. I'm 'watching' the auction just to get a gauge as to the 'market' for my surplus diffs. Good luck though, I really think that it is a worthwhile upgrade. edit: Actually, after going back and looking at the unit more closely, it seems that the eBay unit is the smaller case diff, which would likely make the swap much closer to bolt-in. I still believe that the Q45/300ZXTT diffs are MUCH more stout.

The Q45 R200 is VLSD and CONSIDERABLY more stout than that of the OE 280Z "R200" (do a search, lots of information 'Black Beaut'). It is far closer to the R230 in most every respect. Also, I don't believe that the front mount that AZ Z Cars is selling is for this particular diff. I think that it is for the 280Z R200. I spent about an hour and a half with the parts guy at Infiniti, who has been with Nissan for over 30 years, and I STILL learn more and more about the R230(300ZXTT)/R200(Q45) differential saga that has gone on for YEARS on this site, alone! I picked up a low mileage '94 Q45 R200 with a smooth cover. Thought it was some sort of mistake or hodge podge of miscellaneous parts. Brought it to the Parts guy. He took me out to the Service area, and showed me a much newer Q45. Same diff. Guess that Nissan stopped 'finning' the covers (presumably for cost-cutting) because it is reasonable to assume that it is much cheaper to produce smooth covers. He printed out the parts fiche, and the internals were the same. The advantage for those that are considering this undertaking is that the later model ('94- ) Q45 R200 with the smooth cover eliminates the need to customize the lower rear brace/transverse link. The stock brace should clear just fine. The cooling fins, while they look great, I suspect have little advantage for mild, spirited street driving of relatively short duration. Racing applications would be a whole other discussion.

As far as the OE mirror for the passenger side, "Jolane" is correct. I did this on one of my 240s many years ago. Just swivel the mirror over, drill the hole (farther forward than driver's side if you want ANY visibility), and mount. Many, many versions and interpretations of 'appropriate' mirrors have been used (look through the "album"); but, you either choose function (visibility) or form (proportion or 'scale' to the lines of the car). The latter is obviously VERY subjective, as some use Indy car sized mirrors while others use pickup truck sized mirrors...and everything in-between. The look that I have stuck with on the last couple of 240s that I have 'done' have been the Talbot knockoff 'bullet' type mirror. They have good scale to the car, similar roundness of 'lines'; BUT, piss-poor function. For that I use an improved rear view mirror ("objects are closer than they appear"...) which is about 6-8" wide.

Love the look altogether. The paint and body 'man' that did that Black one does some awesome work (for it to show the curves that 'cleanly')!! Really nice. When I first jumped back into early Z cars, after a long hiatus, I decided first, to do a V8 hybrid, then contemplated the custom body kits (VR, Scorpion,...). But, my fears of mating fiberglass to metal just made me give that part of 'the dream' up. Doing the LS1/T56 will have to be 'enough'; but, I'll always admire one of those kits that are put together exceptionally well like the ones in this thread.

If I may, I'd like to throw a word of caution out. If the painter that you have selected ONLY shoots Nason, you might not be pleased with the end-result if you 'force' him to use PPG. Not all paints 'flow' the same when painting, and in my experience it is best to stick with what 'your painter' is most comfortable shooting. Now, this is NOT an endorsement for Nason, because I think that it is crap. I think that it is wisest to spend the money and use QUALITY products on something as important as your paint; but, that may also necessitate you finding another painter (if you heed my warnings about letting 'your painter' use the product that they are most comfortable shooting). Based upon some of your comments, I'm gathering that you are not expecting Concours quality; but, the paint job is the FIRST thing that attracts the eye to your car...why not make it the best that you can possibly afford? RacerX is the site 'paint guru', and he may disagree with my point(s), at which, I would recommend following his advice as he has helped me a great deal.

I have FIVE of those guns. They work just fine. As stated earlier by 'Magnum', just take the time to get it dialed in for your spray technique...everyone shoots a little differently. True, they aren't Sata quality; but, this isn't my job, just a hobby and I can get damn near high-end shop-quality results with these 'cheapies'. I also have some Harbor Freight guns (two quart 'pot', and smaller 'detail' gun for spot jobs); but, Titan's customer support blows away HF. I called them and they sent me a bunch of spare 'filters', and a box of screw on lids(eventhough she misunderstood me, and they were for a different cup - I still really appreciated the effort). This is where I found the best pricing, though they have gone up $10 since December. I got the three gun set here, and the two gun set on eBay. I would recommend this site for both, AND order different sized tips here too. http://www.midwayautosupply.com/searchby.asp

Never a disappointment! Your fabrication skills and visionary designs just blow my mind!! I LOVE IT!!! Is it plastic? How did you manage the texturing?

Forgive me if I'm ignorant; but, the "eBay Pulley" looks to be exactly where my OE tensioner pulley is...am I missing something?

Jamie, The person that you seek would be me. I am the one with the 16s that has been panting to get the set-up completed. Please let me know that you received this.....handymanstan@comcast.net