240Z2NV

I believe that transport from CA to TX would be around $500 plus or minus $150. It depends on how fancy the transport is. If you can find a trucker, or mover that is making the run anyway, they'll probably do it relatively inexpensively. You could consider posting an ad on craigslist.org under "Services" maybe. First find the car, then worry about how to get it home. I'm not trying to downplay 'Dudeboy's' suggestion of collector car trader because it might pan out really well; but, if someone sees the vehicle that THEY are selling as a "collector car", they would have a high sense of worth for the car. Trying to get top dollar is what I would expect from that source. I may very well be wrong. I'm such a cheapass, I'm always searching for the 'great deal'. If you can find someone that just wants it out of the way, that is the 'diamond in the rough' that you seek. Please learn from my mistakes. Don't rush. There are, and will be, plenty of good candidates out there. There is a story on this site about the "chicken coop car". I know the guy that found it. He got a PERFECT project car, and he wasn't even actively looking, just casually. It had been sitting in a rotted out chicken coop for God knows how long. And he got it CHEAP. After selling off the parts that he didn't need on eBay, I think that his investment in the rolling shell was $0. Again, part of this project is to set guidelines for yourself to help prioritize. Ask yourself which part of getting the car is most important: Finding an inexpensive one and 'fixing' the metal problems, or spending more for a really clean one with little, if any, metal work required. You will seldom get both...cheap AND clean; but, I said seldom, not never. They are definitely out there if you have patience. I guarantee that if you take your time, the perfect car will turn up based upon what is most important to you. You claim to be Type A, and I'm the posterboy for Type A. This has caused me to make alot of mistakes on this project. Try to heed my warnings, I wish my other buddies would have forced me to 'step back' more. Then again, if you're Type A, you generally can't be 'forced' to do anything...stubborness is part of the profile. This is a really fun undertaking. Try to keep it "fun" and enjoy the journey without too much focus on the destination. Obviously, you have a vision of what you want the finished product to be; but, try to enjoy the effort that it takes to get there. I'm trying very hard to clear my old mindset, and take pleasure in the process more. As I recover from being runover (as a pedestrian) by a hit-and-run drunk driver, I have lots of unproductive time on my hands. It is my hope to be reinvigorated on the build when I can walk again.

Sounds like there aren't enough decent pieces on it to even get it as a 'parts car'. There are alot of great sources out there for the parts that you sounded interested in....for less, AND without dodging all of the bad spots. Honestly, if you gave him $150, I think that you'd be borderline overspending on it (from experience). The glass and the locks are pretty much the only redeeming parts. Bumpers will need refinishing obviously; but, they could be useable. He's obvioulsy a glue sniffer if he thinks that the car is worth $750. My 'money' is still on you finding the shell of your dreams in LA or SF Bay area.

It just seems that there are enough straight, clean Z bodies out there not to have to do so much (replacing roofs, etc.). Just keep looking, they are out there, just might require a 'road trip'. The time and money would still be better than something that needs major rust repair and metalworking.....unless that is your thing. But, "American" you never really claimed to be a 'metal master' or Zen lover of Rust Repair..... The first shell that I bought for this hybrid project was a P.O.S. rust bucket, but I was so caught up in the whole idea of the build. I got taken, and wasted alot of money only to shift gears when I found a CLEAN shell to start with. So, I took a big hit on the first shell, dumped it, licked my wounds, and moved on... Bottom line is, there are enough clean shells out there. Would you rather spend your time welding-in panels, or searching/travelling to get a virtually rust-free car that will require very little to prep for paint, except for roll cage and chassis stiffening?

I see a fair amount of rust at the rear hatch. Also, roofs on Zs are not easy to straighten out, even by a good metal man. It is very tedious and time consuming because the roof 'tin cans' so easily. Good luck....

S12w

There you go........

Here's a link, might be worth the trip....? http://www.craigslist.org/nby/car/92852008.html Hope it works out for someone... Stan

Did you ever check the classifieds on this site?! I know for a fact that there is AT LEAST one set of S12Ws listed for sale because they are mine.....

If I may, I'd like to offer another bit of advice. I, and many of our peers have done this...some may not consider it a 'mistake'; but, in retrospect I would have done it differently. In the excitement of this undertaking it is REALLY easy to get 'gung-ho' and start acquiring/buying 'stuff'. The problem that I experienced with this is: it ties up your funds for the project if you buy items that you likely won't need for at least a year, it occupies ALOT of space, and it helps to create distractions. A good friend on this site (Tim240Z) told me before I even started this build to stay on-track, and keep a logical, linear progression...do things in order. I wish that I had followed it through instead of my ADD method of doing a little of this, and a little of that. Now, I have a bedroom, an attic, and a three car garage full of parts that I won't be needing for LONG time, and spent alot of money that would have been better sitting in a bank until I was truly ready for the next 'task'. It is VERY easy to get caught up in the 'acquisition'...afterall, buying stuff is fun!!

I know that you can do the radiator/fan line item for considerably less money. And you might want to take that leftover 'change' and create a line item for differential swap...you'll need it with 400+hp

http://www.craigslist.org under "Autos" Many locations throughout US (and foreign, as well). Since it began in the San Francisco Bay Area, that search locale has the heaviest usage. Many early Zs available. Also, depending on the condition you desire, I have a friend that essentially has a 'junkyard' full of Zs....many of which are perfect for a full-on hybridization. If you are willing to make the trek to CA, and are interested, email me directly: handymanstan@comcast.net

Can I chime in with a question regarding the mount points where the OE Moustache Bar would mount? I am FAR less than qualified to question your terrific designs; but, you used square stock on those end pieces, and the mounting bolts for the moustache bar merely fit inside them with washers on top and bottom? It seems that you might consider using slightly larger square stock on those end pieces, 'sleeved' with some tube stock welded inside them for structural support of the bolts, no? I may be all 'wet' here, and if I am try not to flame me too badly, I've gotten some terrific inspiration from your design and love all of the cad details, as well....it's really top-shelf! I really do love the clean look of the 'finished' piece..... Stan

One thing that I don't recall in your initial post: Do you have intentions of keeping the interior and other cosmetics relatively stock? If so, consider the big differences in the interior looks of 240 vs. 260/280Zs. I, personally, wouldn't consider it subtle. So, if that is an area of consideration, it should point you in the right direction. As Mr. Paraska pointed out, if you are doing a full-tilt V8 hybridization, you will (at least should) be doing some significant chassis reinforcement (subframe connectors, etc.) anyway, so the OE stiffness of the chassis is kind of irrelevant, no? Another isssue is the emissions laws in your state. Is there a cutoff year of production that would exempt you from testing or referee hassles? That helped make it real easy for me to pick the '73 that I am building. Then again, I have several acquaintances locally that are also active on this site that have friends that 'sign their cars off', so, for them, it isn't a factor. My .02 FWIW

Or, you could just email me the pics directly as it seems that I am the only person doing this right now. Either way, thank you! handymanstan@comcast.net

Somehow that little voice inside me is saying that the diff pictured is merely a Q45 unit that they are pandering as a Skyline diff. If I'm wrong, my bad; but it looks too much like the units sitting in my garage.

Hey Mike, If Sparky doesn't jump on those seats, can you send me the details on them? I have tons of parts just waiting for me to do a huge eBay listing spree...just too lazy. handymanstan@comcast.net

I found this thread by accident; but, I had planned on mounting my 280Z retractor set on my '73. Very interesting. I am clear on the detailed description, thank you "ZGeezer", until I get to the 'plate' that will need to be welded to the top of my tower. The towers on 280Zs are totally flat, which makes for a perfect surface to mount the plastic cover. My tower is not flat (240Z) and has the angled 'face' for the strut nut & spring 'hat'. How would any of you recommend that I fab the top piece to properly accomodate the plastic retractor cover? I already have the flat piece to weld in for the actual mechanism; but, got 'hung up' on the angled surface of my tower and what to do to overcome that 'issue'. I hope that you can understand my predicament based upon my description....

Gene Culley is the Parts Manager for Fred Beans GM. He is a sponsor on LS1.com and/or LS1Tech.com He frequently offers 'specials' for a month-at-a-time seliing parts AT COST, and you merely pay normal shipping. I believe that he did the special three times last year. My recommendation for sourcing those new GM parts is to lurk on those sites for a while, register, then when Gene makes the posting under the sponsor board POUNCE! It saved mas280 big bucks, and though I am on a much smaller budget, saved me ALOT as well. Gene is also 'good people' and generally very professional in responding to inquiries. I have referred alot of people to him, and never gotten any negative 'bounceback'.

So a SEARCH in Drivetrain Forum with the phrase "LSD" or "VLSD", and you'll get more info that you could possibly need......

You might be able to use the sway bars, and possibly the dash and console if they are any good.....

There aren't BRembo 'kits' to my knowledge; but, you can put one together piece-by-piece. It's just a question of fabbing mounts, hubs, etc.

I may be mistaken, and if so I welcome any clarification, but the axles are much smaller, the housing is smaller, I don't think that it is 'Viscous', and the gears are smaller (in heft)......

I think that you might ease the 'mind melt' if you narrow your options a bit....pretty much all across the board in terms of shapes and sizes.

With all of the hard driving in your plans, that diff is probably the weakest, structurally, of the three that you were considering... The wheels, the only 'problem' is availability. Aren't they incredibly scarce, or do I have them confused with another Watanabe?

What ever happened with these?