240Z2NV

Very nice documentation. ALOT of metal work on that shell! Wish I were as disciplined with the pictorial. Cameras just bore me; but, some future owner would undoubtedly appreciate it.....

Ron, now THAT looks cooool! Please, fill us in....

I've spent quite a bit of time searching for those "clevis" ends, and found bubkis at this point.......

I have two 60 gallon verticals. The separate room is a good idea, although good oil lubed compressors aren't that loud. Try http://www.craigslist.org under "General For Sale" or "Tools". There should be one 'based' somewhere near you. It is a great way to find awesome deals for gently used stuff if you shop regularly. Otherise, if you have a Lowe's, their high end vertical unit is quite good. Compressor recommendations are a whole othewr thread; but, I spent ALOT of time shopping around. I ended up with Ingersoll-Rand.

NICE workspace!! Going to run your air lines in copper, as well?

"buZy", could you please measure the length of the red tube only, as well as the entire TC Rod assembly from tip-to-tip that you have in that photo for my reference? Also, the endpiece that mounts to the 'frame' (not the 'hockey stick' end), did you fab that or was it purchased? If purchased, where? I started my project with a non-rolling shell with absolutely NO suspension pieces at all, and I'm putting it together with various ideas from the members here. JY parts for some pieces, custom pieces elsewhere. Still trying to determine what is overkill for high performance street usage and maybe an occasional tour around a roadcourse. I am concerned about 'harshness' with the adjustable LCAs semi-rigid mount (bushingless), because the freeways and roads where I live are CRAP!! Thank you CalTrans for fleecing us some more.....

I wondered if these might be a good alternative. Frankly, I don't exactly know what some of the issues actually mean that are being discussed here, I just try to read along until (hopefully) a lightbulb turns on (e.g. not sure what the 'clevis mount' looks like.....). I haven't measured the needed length yet; but, they sell many options at AFCO Racing. I always thought that they were super expensive, and when I saw these, I couldn't believe it. Maybe I'm way off...as usual. http://www.secureperformanceorder.com/afcostore/getproduct.cfm?CategoryID=8&ClassID=115&SubclassID=533&ProductID=741

Very expensive; but, this place does the primo stuff..... http://sanerperffab.com/products.htm Also, 240SX SE ('95 I believe) front sway bar is VERY close to OE shape. Very large diameter, and HOLLOW, so it's super light. Also has the nice end links that Terry (BlueovalZ) recommends. It will require drilling and tapping four new holes in the area of the frame rail that the OE unit goes...hopefully you have already reinforced that area with a thick piece of angle steel anyway. It is prone to ripping out at the sway bar mounts.

I have had Royal Purple, as well as Lucas products recommended by several enthusiasts with very hi-perf. cars

Don't believe that they have changed......

I don't have to pass smog, I have a '73. I'm sure that if you really felt compelled, you could have a very good metal person modify them for you to have 'bungs' on them. Mods...I'd have to dig through ALOT of files to tell you...and I've had a crappy day and just not up to it. I really shopped. Got alot of stuff off of those forums mentioned, some off of eBay...believe me, I'm about as 'tight' as they come with the $$s. Good value can be had, it just takes more time and effort. http://www.LS1howto.com has easy to follow directions on most mods that you would want to do. The LS1edit requires good computer skills. I had someone do it for me who has done several.

'Datsunlover' covered what my suspicion was...pneumatic couplings.

That gated shifter plate that you liked, and later showed in the pic, is EXACTLY what I started a thread about a couple of months back. I was trying to get input on how to make one. I have always loved that look...and, I think that it might be helpful with the close-gated T56...... Great story, I'm 'green'. Probably the highest performance car (or rarest) that I have had the pleasure to ride in (not drive) was a REAL Shelby GT350R. I drove a race version Japanese spec Fairlady Z a few times (OE ZG nose, big flares, triple carbs ...it was fun. I expect that my hybrid, when it is done, will make it seem pretty crappy in retrospect though...it was/is thirty year old design technology.

Check those sites that I gave you. Cats are sold there frequently. Also, the manual should be an easy find on eBay. Mods: Cam, LS6 Intake, LS1edit tuning, well-designed exhaust, springs & retainers, good plugs, P&P TB, P&P Oil Pump, JTR 1.75" headers...multiple dyno sheets to back up the 400hp claim. If the drivetrain is sound, you got a "Killer" deal! A good exhaust shop will probably be in the $500-800 range. You can source your own X pipe, mufflers, and headers form the above sites and eBay. The headers DEFINITELY get from JTR. They cost over $1k to design (because they came from a buddy's prototype), so Mike is practically giving them away...get them before he changes his mind ;~)

I second Synlubes sentiment..."If that's how you build your rotisserie, I can't wait to see your car!" Did you powdercoat that thing?! Really beautiful. I just slapped mine together with two engine stands, not pretty but works fine. I plan on dumping it when I'm done. Yours, on the other hand, I would have to build another garage stall just to 'park' that baby!!

I have OE exhaust manifolds that I was planning on eBaying. Email me if you need to discuss those. If you go to http://www.LS1Tech.com , or http://www.LS1.com , or http://www.corvetteforums.com I think that you will find that dual 3" pipes will not yield optimum performance. Do the search on those sites, it has been discussed ad nauseum..... I'm using the same go-fast goodies as a fellow hybrider, putting down 400+ at the wheels, running dual 2.25". Just a thought....

John, It looks as though the design of your plates might eliminate the noise that others speak of....?? Is the monoball different?

Thank you for that info. John!

Thanks! It's nice to have options.......

I understand. It was merely a poor choice of words...... Another 'dumb' question John, how exactly to they get so much movement 'options' without cutting at least the center hole on the tower? I think that I am clear on the positioning of the plates; but, with all of the combinations (there is a simple math formula, of which the phrase escapes me, but somewhere along the lines of 16 options) how is it that the center hole (strut rod) doesn't at least need enlarging?

Thanks John! I don't suppose that you have any other used sets or 'blems' available? You could PM me any additional information. The fact that the tower do not need to be cut is VERY appealing. Do they 'correct' suspension dynamics the same way that GC plates do? A buddy has the GC plates, so they are the only units that I am (vaguely) familiar with. I'd also love to understand how caster is adjusted, as well. You don't have to tie up the forum because of my ignorance, just PM me or email me at: handymanstan@comcast.net Thanks again!

See John Coffey's response to my thread (last entry): http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100003

I agree that the design is excellent; but, $1200 for the corners is just out-of-the-question......any others?

Have read all of the threads that came up with a search. A few brands were mentioned; but, no suppliers. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated....

That is the same unit that Motorsport Auto sells, use their price for comparison. Also, you need to be aware that that patch panel is TOTALLY FLAT, and you will have to 'work it' to get the proper curvature.