TimZ

How so? I thought it did a pretty good job of outlining the basics regarding unique aspects of cam design for turbos. Were you expecting it to tell you exactly how to design a cam profile for your engine?

No safety concern? How can you say this when you don't even understand what the failure modes are? Grommets and mounting away from heat don't even come close to what needs to be done to make this acceptably safe. Tuning an oem controller that's using an oem e-throttle matched to its application is NOT what we are discussing here, as far as I can tell, and nobody has given me a warm fuzzy feeling that they really appreciate the magnitude or seriousness of the problem here. If you are really dead set on doing this, then you should at a minimum install an emergency kill switch that's easily accessible with a quick hand slap, like this one: ...no matter how good a driver you think you are, if this thing fails to WOT, reaching for the key and tuning it off is not a good or fast enough backup plan. I've been doing OEM vehicle development work for 18 years now - I do have some experience with this.

I'll second that. While generally the info on that site seems pretty reasonable, the comment made about 1 lb from the flywheel = 10 lb from the car doesn't really hold for the crank pulley. This is because they are referring to the loss in rotational inertia that results from the weight reduction of the flywheel, which varies with the square of its diameter where the weight was removed. Because the diameter of the crank pulley is much smaller, especially where the bulk of its mass is located, reducing weight there will have a much smaller effect. Not really worth it if that's your only goal. Now, if you are planning on making an engine that actually makes power above say 6000rpm, then an upgraded crank pulley might be worthwhile, but you need to get one that is actually a proper harmonic damper, not just a light pulley.

Floormats? Give me a break. The diagnostic tools you appear to be referring to (OBD scanners, code checkers etc) are only used to diagnose problems that are already known to be potential problems. They generally can't be used to find "glitches" that nobody knew were going to happen. That's kind of the point - the OEMs (at least the conscientious ones) spend SIGNIFICANTLY more time developing the failsafes for these systems than they do the actual "normal" functions. The failsafes are generally specific to the hardware design and aren't necessarily interchangeable. If you don't understand exactly how the throttle functions and exactly what failsafes are implemented for both software and hardware, then this probably isn't a good idea.

Does it do this every time you run the engine or just every now and then? I had an issue where the secondary seal on the pressure cap had a slight leak - the system is supposed to be able to allow some fluid to escape to the overflow tank as the coolant expands and the pressure cap regulates the pressure. When the system cools it's also supposed to suck the overflow fluid back in as the coolant in the system contacts. The secondary seal leak was allowing the fluid to escape just fine, but made it impossible for it to get sucked back in. So eventually my coolant level would go low and the tank would overflow. A bit of hylomar around the outer sealing surface for the pressure cap solved this problem.

Just to double-check, .579 lift was not a typo, correct? Assuming that it was not a typo, then yes that's a lot of lift for an l-series head

First off, that's a pretty extreme cam to put on a stock E88 head. Without corresponding port work it's most likely a waste. This is kind of an "advanced users only" kind of cam. At that lift, yes you will almost certainly need different springs and retainers, and you will need to check your clearance to the valve guide and seal. I doubt the stock guide/seal will work without modification. Also, once that's all sorted, you'll want to check to make sure the valves don't hit anything in the combustion chamber, such as the piston or cylinder wall.

Depends on where your reference point is and how you want to measure it - if you're talking flywheel, jeffp is already there, and I am already there. As far as how to do it? Years of persistence in both cases - no silver bullet here. Seriously - is somebody doubting that a 1 ton car with over 400hp will be quick? I guess I haven't been following this that closely, but the car above with the engine installed looks like a lot of attention paid to the motor, not much to the chassis/suspension - I'm assuming that won't be the case with the track car...

Have you found this thread yet? It's stickied in the "Fuel Delivery" forum... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/52695-fuel-injector-upgradesswap/ I think what you are looking for isn't really whether they are "4 amp" or "2 amp", but what is their impedance and how are they wired in your system...

Okay, to be fair, I think your first question here got overlooked. Yes you should get a lower pressure spring. However, as Tony just mentioned, the fact that your ring lands failed with dished pistons before doesn't bode well for the higher compression setup. It is probably the case that the 10psi tune with the 17lb spring ate your first setup. As Tony mentioned, it would be a better idea to start with a very low pressure spring and then tune for higher pressures as you are sure the lower ranges are dialed in.

Man - talk about putting a finer point on something... Thanks Tony - that saved me a LOT of typing. Perhaps "Wiki D" should be "Tenacious D" - does Jack Black have it Copyrighted?

Pretty sure my stock pads were .120" (N42 head). Also last I checked (just a couple of years ago), Isky had retainers that worked with taller pads, and they were available in chromoly or titanium.

I think that this varies by head - my recollection is that my N42 does not have a passage that mates with the front orifice. Also, there are a couple of different tensioner oiling configurations that vary by year.

Exactly. Three of us have mentioned this so far, and the same answer keeps coming back. That's kind of where the sense of frustration is coming from. I'll put a finer point on it. If the wastegate is set to 17lb, the ECU can't make it do less than 17psi. There are ways for the ECU to "fool" it into producing more boost, but not less. I guess you could do a fuel cut past 10psi, but that would work really badly, to the point of being unusable. So, as Tony alluded to, you need to find out what is meant by "tuned to 10psi". I think what it really means is that you need to sh1tcan the 17lb spring and get a 10lb or lower spring, especially until you have a better handle on what is going on with your config. Also, for a properly setup engine, the GT30R is not too big, and shouldn't "blow" your engine - several people here run GT35Rs, and a couple of us run even larger. The GT30R is capable of a fair amount of boost, though, and I suspect that this guy is more worried about your level of experience and wants to steer you towards something less extreme and potentially more reliable so you don't come back and blame him for an engine that blew up. Don't take offense at this - I'm not saying that's what you would do, but people do crap like that all the time.

Okay, I'll bite. If you have a 17lb wastegate spring, how exactly are you "tuning" it to 10lbs?

HUH? Who said that? The L-series might not be the newest design, but it's damn near indestructible.

I'm not seeing an advanced search option any more either - did this function go away or am I blind?

I agree - if you are allowing the engine to move on its mounts, then anything that connects to it must be allowed to flex. This doesn't have to be anything terribly fancy - I didn't have room for a 4" id flex coupler, so what I ended up doing was simply putting a section between the downpipe and the "main" exhaust that was only connected by slip joints. This was dead simple, and doesn't leak noticeably. The one caveat is that you have to have enough overlap in the slip joints such that it is held captive between the downpipe and the exhaust and can't fall out. Also, I use the jet nuts linked above for the smaller studs that go between the intake and exhaust manifolds, and they work great - the smaller hex size makes it much easier to get a socket in there to tighten them. They should also work fine for the turbo attachment, although I use something more like the ATP solution.

I'm pretty sure that this is correct - the water just needs to pass through the cooling passages and has no need to be in direct contact with any moving parts. I guess you could have cracked the center section, but I sincerely doubt it. While allowing a cooldown period after hard running is still a good practice, water cooled center sections are much more forgiving about this. I'm thinking I'd be looking at the head gasket - it's a bigger pain in the ass, but probably a lot quicker and cheaper to fix, if that makes you feel any better...

You guys and your tiny ARs... I'm thinking that Phil's more aggressive cam probably likes that larger AR quite a bit better too. Just because you can make boost sooner doesn't necessarily mean that it will make more power. Also - if it's working for you without detonation then don't f with it, but I would've thought you'd be running a bit colder plug with that setup - I'm using the 8 heat range in that plug style...

Nigel is correct - the only reason that there are four bleeders is to make the caliper reversible. There is no point in trying to bleed from the bottom bleeders. Also, assuming you have just replaced your calipers and could have air anywhere in the system, you'll want to bleed at the master cylinder bleeders first. Then you generally want to bleed from the farthest point from the master cylinder first and work your way in. This would probably dictate bleeding the outside bleeders first, although outside vs inside probably doesn't make that much difference. On my 78, the brake lines are routed such that the driver's side rear is actually the farthest, so that's where I start.

Yes - it should be a 19mm (3/4") bolt.You might also check the oil pan drain plug to see if it's there. If you lost all of the oil I would expect to either see a mess or a missing drain plug.

I believe that the answer that you are looking for is that the indention goes "in" (i.e., it limits the travel of the axle shaft inside the CV housing). Here's an older thread that might be helpful: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/56198-q45-diff-swap-axle-problem/page__p__567764__hl__stops__fromsearch__1entry567764

Ummm, click the "back" button once and look at the very first post.

Some do - I prefer to run hard lines under the car and only use flexible lines for shorter lengths connecting things that need to move aronnd a bit.