Mikelly

Yes. John Coffey. He's an administrator here. He owns Beta Motorsports.com. Mike

Exactly my point... We provide accurate info and let those who have the brainpower use it appropriately. Beyong that, it's not our problem... Mike

Car looks great... Love those wilwood pedals... Was looking at those at SEMA! Mike

Wish I still had decent pics of my Zcar in white... White is the easiest color to shoot and make look good, and covers less than perfect bodywork. It also helps with heat soak issues, and leaves the interior a few degrees cooler on hot days. The only down side is ALL DIRT shows on white, just as it does on black. Mike

It's got enough technical step by step info on differential overhauling in general that I personally feel it's worthy... Mike

Careless, Please go HERE: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=93146 Now, as your product matures, please come to the admin staff FIRST before posting your product. We've had so many problems with others who decide they're getting into the body parts making business, and it creates a lot of work for the admin staff when things go south. Good luck with your parts production and aim low for your initial production, and for everyone's sake, don't take a single dime for orders until you've got the production process nailed down and have stuff ready to ship... Search here for other examples of what NOT to do. Mike

NismoZtune, Contact JohnC. here. He's a dealer for Kodiak. I'll also be going with Kodiaks for my "slicks"/dry tire setup. The TSW Thrusters I bought are gonna be used with a soft (low utqg) rated street tire for initial testing and rain setup. Mike

JIm Pearl, a former member here known as BLKMGK, owns a now TOTALLED $65,000 Toyota Supra that made in excess of 730 Wheel HP and had tons of electronics, suspension upgrades, new paint, roll cage, and lots of other custom "stuff". The car was totalled when a Sears repair truck made an illegal left hand turn in front of him. Jim couldn't stop in time and T-boned the guy. This accident happened in July 2005. He STILL hasn't settled the claim with the insurance company because they wanted to give him a payout based on the vin. He had to get a lawyer, and now is in this middle of the long battle with State Farm, the company the Sears van was covered by. The moral of this story is IF you'd like to get all those custom parts covered by your insurance company, you might want to let them know what the TRUE VALUE is. Otherwise, they are gonna low-ball you and there won't be a thing you can do. The proper way to go about it is to get an agreed to "stated" value of coverage from your company. In other words, what's it worth to duplicate the car as is the day you insure it. The other thing to remember is to UPGRADE the coverage as you UPGRADE the car. If you had it insured with the L6 in stock trim, but have gone and installed an RB26 and all the trimmings to make it scoot properly, you'll need to go BACK to the company and get a new "agreed to" amount of coverage. Once you have that agreed to amount nailed down, it doesn't matter who's at fault. You're covered. Otherwise, Much like Jim Pearl, You're SCREWED and in for a long battle or a major financial loss. Mike

I don't think the diameter is what's gonna cause fitment issues as much as the depth of the caliper intruding into the back of the wheel. I'd guess that the overall diameter is probably about 13-13.5 inches. Those wilwood calipers dont' have a lot of overhang off the back of the rotor. I had that setup on the front of my white Z back in 2000-2001 and it cleared every rim I threw at it, but needed a wheel spacer with most to clear the depth of the caliper. That said, a lot of the newer wheels coming out are designed to clear these larger brembo brake options... The TSW I just bought clears most brake setups... Shop till you drop! Mike

Regardless which tranny you choose in the over-drive varients out there, I'd not consider a transmission, manual or automatic, for street duty of any kind without an overdrive. You'll take a major hit at the gas pumps and you'll be limited to driving it at certain speeds on the interstate. Mike

Mike

ZeddFindings makes a great floor pan, But make no bones about it. The BAd Dog rails are the best solution you can have for adding strength and cleaning up the understide of the car. They are truly a nice piece and I'd recommend them over anything short of the Pparaska solid boxed rail, which would be very expensive to have a shop do. Judging by the looks of thpse pics, regardless which path you choose, you're gonna have several thousand dollars in repairs, and I'd personally not drive that car until the rust in the rails and pans is gone... I've seen worse rust damage, but you're gonna have a lot of labor in replacing all that bad metal. Mike

Exactly why I commented on the "interesting" aspect... The stockish suspension, extremely optomistic HP claims, and the auto tranny all make you want to run the other way. However, If it could be had for around $6K, maybe it'd be a deal... Mike

Actually that MSA type 3 spoiler is a temporary item. I've bought a Gnose and will be using it and a spoiler below it. Mike

Wondering what my Silver Z would look like with black stripes similar to those on that silver Z... Mike

http://www.oksalesinc.com/id1.html Half way down the page. Mike

I was going thru the list in my head and I can't seem to think of anything else I need to buy for the suspension. I've given it some serious thought and can't think of anything... The brakes are another story. I'm gonna have to make an adapter for the rear calipers to fit. And I'll likely have to buy some more hardline to finish routing the lines for the car, and the front caliper bolts for the PBR calipers... Otherwise I've got everything else... Mike

If you're refering to the pic I posted, that's my car and I own the pic... Mike

I think it all boils down to what most folks can afford. Ken Jones and I were talking on the phone the other day about this very subject. It's a royal pain fitting and finishing the flares. Underside work to get the flares to work properly can be very expensive. It's a major process that can be VERY expensive, unless like Rick above (with Porkchop), you do your own work and you have his ability and skill. Hell, doing ZG flares properly can be daunting in and of itself. I almost went with the VB Steel flares, but didn't want to add to the already lengthy process. Of course, now that I've bought a Gnoze kit for the car, I'm second guessing the flares, but I hope the ZG Flares I've made the decision to go with will work well... They don't look like the best solution, but certainly aren't the worst option if done properly! Mike

Yea, Jon, It's true... You suck... Mike

Jersey, I have TWO sets of Jamie T's aluminum front hubs. I opted for those and sold Ross' fronts that Jim M. gave me. Jamie's Front hubs are a real piece of work. I grabbed a second set from Jamie in the price for the paint/body and fabrication work. I just wanted to have the spare set just incase! The front brakes are the same PBR caliper Ross uses and I used the stock Mustang Cobra rotor to start with. I'll likely swap to the aluminum wilwood front hub center and the replacable outter rotor they also offer. The rears are gonna be Mustang gt rear rotors and Chevy Z06 rear calipers. Mike

After noticing an out-of-balance issue with a stub axle last night (I'd drilled my own stubaxles several years ago for the five lug swap!!!) I decided to bite the bullet today and ORDER A SET OF MM BILLET STUB AXLES!!! I hope they get here quickly...This is really the last big ticket item, other than tires and tuning... Mike

We're just over the $3000.00 mark. It's $3500 per day. We'd need another $4000 to do a second day! That said, We've got at least 7 weeks (Actually more!!!) to get the rest together! Mike

Davy, Actually the car is solely a track car that I'll drive on the street ONLY to break in and occasionally shake down before track events. It has no heat/HVAC and zero other creature comforts. I have a "Too low" issue at the moment. What's funny is that I didn't section a strut in my setup, but used camber plates, and I still sit way low, so any "lift" is just fine. I can't go ANY higher in the rear with my suspension without eating into the "droop" on the strut. It has to be able to top out. The other swaying factor for me was the availability of tires and the trend in the industry. 17s are currently the standard, but with the most current of automotive technology, more vehicles are coming in 18 and 19 inch sizes. I opted for the 18s because of this. I plan to track this car for quite some time, and I want to be able to have a vast range of tire selections. And I can still get a 25inch diameter Hooser which still keeps the car VERY low. On street treads, I'll probably have a 26.5 inch diameter tire, which is OK and will raise the car only a little. The wheel well will be full, but that isn't a bad thing! Mike

There are a couple of things to consider here guys... Weight is a factor, in rims, brake setups, and suspensions. Anytime you add those big brakes, you need to make sure to size them accordingly. In most cases the 12.2 inch setup sold by Ross or Mike Gibson (SCCA Here) are as efficient as you need. The mass is less, unsprung weight lowered, and with the appropriate pad and fluid, performance can be GREAT! If you're not pushing mega HP, Sometimes bigger isn't always better... It can be OVERKILL and unwanted weight in the wrong areas! Mike