Mikelly

Well my buddy Dennis came over last night and we did some checking on the lift. It didn't get fried and I'm not losing my mind... Something in the wiring is funky. I need to contact the maker of the motor and get an electrical diagrahm of how it is supposed to be wired up! I'll have my lift running sooner or later... Mike

Damn Scottie, You are my Hero! I predict if You keep on this path of measured calculations and aby steps, that you will eventually make it into the 9s... Remember guys... I said it first! Mike

Tim, I have the Outlaws by Mike Gibson. The advantage (If there is one) will be Cost. I also have the wilwood calipers from another source and they are almost identical to the Outlaws as far as design and performance... I think My calipers are the Superlites... They are massive... I paid $1000 to Mike for the fronts with that same setup in your pick...12.2 rotor, aluminum hat... I'll be contacting this guy for the hats for the rear setup on my Car. That will give me 12.2's all the way around... Wilwoods at one end and Outlaws at the others. So for basically $225, plus the $120 I spent for the calipers, and another $100 for rotors I'd have the same kit??? $445, Is that right??? That is SWEET! My only issue is I need five lug! Mike

Well We passed, but we BURNED UP something on the lift motor... Somehow they clugged together a thumb button on a cord and then also had the button mounted on the unit. Every time I tripped the breaker the unit would run, and shoot fluid since I overfilled it... Got the overfill issue resolved but as I'm trying to troubleshoot the wiring I remove all the clugged stuff... And every reference point for wiring... I tried wiring it conventionaly and it tripped the breaker. Tried wiring it unconventionally several ways, and ended up cooking a switch and some wire... Not sure if I hurt the unit or not... Also managed to TOUCH myself with 220 current... I don't EVER want to do that again... That Sucked X10! Mike

Wish me luck guys, as I'm pulling the final today! Mike

I had $600 in my exhaust including mufflers and stainless tips. It was all welded up with an H-pipe and bolted flanges so it could be removed. Guy spent lots of time on it. 2.5 inches all the way back. I'm gonna grab some rewarder headers and hope I can bolt the same system back up! Mike

...And to make matters worse, I took yet another bath in fluid TONIGHT and I can' get the lift wiring sorted out... This thing realy was rigged up pretty bad and I'm pretty sure I over filled it by two gallons... Boy what a mess... Think I have it drained back down to the leve it should be at, but I have to get the wiring issues sorted. I have my final inspection tomorrow so I'm just gonna block off the wiring 'till after they leave and then sort it out after wards! Mike

Well gee, what Did John already have molds of??? Maybe a HOOD in Carbon??? Maybe Different Styles of HOOD in carbon??? Could it be??? Mike

Well last night I ran some wire for the pump and filled the pump with Hydraulic fluid and raised my lift for the first time. No big deal. I go to lower it and Fluid SHOOTS out of the fill plug, spraying all over my wall, my pic of the Race 300ZX, and my tool board where all my sockets and ratchets, specialty tools and such are located... It then promtly puked more fluid all voer the floor the more I lowered it... Any tips from those who work with these things??? Did I get an overfill/ air pocket issue??? Mike

I've got the Commander 950 for a TPI setup and it is a vey nice package... Can't wait to install it! Mike

Yup, you should be OK with that unit for your current application, but You'd outgrow it if your powerplant grew new aluminum heads or freer flowing exhaust, or a new cam or.... You get the Picture... Those things are dead nuts reliable from what I've read, just don't make the most power available... Mike

Eric, The problem for me was that my power plant, when Running 65MPH in 6th WOULDN'T run. It wasn't happy at all... The Audi was a bad example to use. Making 2000RPMs and 65MPH is PERFECT, but not likely in a Z, unless you are going to use programable fuel Injection to tailor your fuel and spark. Mudge, I'm changing everything over to porgramable fuel Injection, but I still don't plan to use the T56. I sold it. I'll use soemthing that allows me to HAND PICK my gearing so all 5 or 6 gears are fully usable, the reason for having gears in the first place. Mike

I've done four cars with Aluminum lines and they can be done easily, but as Mark said, Can be catastrophic. I'd make damned sure the lines don't make contact or rub against anything, including the underside of the car or suspension. Make sure you rubber mount EVERY inch that contacts a mount point. If not, you will rub through the aluminum and sprout a leak. Mike

I had one of the most compliant, yet enjoyable Zs I've owned (Built 14 over the last 17 years...) had Boge struts on TRAX Springs with Energy Bushings everywhere. The car competed VERY WELL in autocross events, usually get 1st or 2nd in SP classes, and I drove it DAILY! I also had a front strut brace and quick steer knuckles on it... Mike

WANTaZ, your comment about YOUR free speach backs up what that professor said. He has that same right. Doesn't matter WHO is offended, He had the right to make THAT STUPID statement. I don't get the flag burning stuff either, but it is their supposed right to free expression. Now look, you made me go and play devil's advocate for scum like that.... Mike

Well Actually we are gonna do an adjustable control arm setup on the front, and We are looking into various coil over kits, and strut assemblies. However, right now I'd be happy just finding some axles and a transmission for the damned thing... 94 Acura Integra LS 1.8 NON-Vtec motor... Anyway, I got a deal on some Eagle Rods for him, so We'll likely get those and some forged pistons so the thing doesn't go BOOM when we dial up the boost... Oh, and there is NO WAY IN HELL that he will beat me... I'm NOT gonna show him how to tweek it so I can keep his boost down as low as I NEED IT!!! The ultimate goal is to get him into a Z or other rear wheel drive car... Mike

Believe it. That Professor doesnt' seem to understand that the very freedoms that allowed him to be a horses ass and make those ignorant comments would evaporate like muddy water on a hot July Day if his wishes came true. Bottom line is the Liberal press is NOT doing its job of reporting facts anymore. There seems to constantly be an agenda. Everyone in the media has their own direction, guided by motivations NOT in the name of the betterment of our country. I'm not saying "Don't report the truth because it might be negative!" But REPORT the EXACT FACTS as you see them, and DON'T give me your damned opinion because I don't NEED IT... That is why they are called REPORTERS! Sheesh! Mike

Mudge, In that configuration you would be correct. However, If you take THAT trans and put it behind a fairly high lift cam'ed car running a carb and less than optimal vacuum, then you run into issues... I was running 3.7 gears and 26.5 inch tall tires, and the car (260 Z) would do the herky jerky at anything less than 2000RPMS. It REALY is important to know all your variables before you do the buildup... Now, if I was gonna put a warmed over LT1 into the car, with the same trans, I'd run trhe T56. But I'm thinking I personally don't need .50 OR two overdriven gears... Jim Biondo Warned me about this when I was building my 1st V8Z, and I always wondered why he was using a modified T5... He told me that the weight, as well as the parasitic drag on the internals of the T56 actually ROB horsepower. He did dyno tests with both the T56, and his custom modified trans, as he had both transmissions at the time... He kept the T5 and sold the T56. Now I don't want to dump a ton of cash into doing a custom bomb-proof T5 for my 500+hp buildup, so I'll probably go with a TKO or Richmond... Also, weight difference alone in the two transmissions is more than you might think... Mike

The main reason one should look at a six speed would be torque and horsepower concerns over breaking the transmission. My biggest concern was my 383 stroker... However, With my setup I never was able to USE sixth gear unless I was doing 90mph or 2000 RPMs, whichever came first. The added weight and cost of the unit just simply wasn't worth it. Mike

Well now let me pose this question... Why a six speed? What makes you think you want one??? MInd you, I had a T56 behind my 383 stroker, so I'm well aware of the W-O-W/ C-O-O-L factor. But beyond that, is there a REAL need? Mike

1st Question I would have is availability... That thing, or anything from the new 350Z is gonna cost a fortune from a salvage yard. Just my $.02 worth... Mike

Yea, I'd like to revive this tpoic as well, since I'm STILL looking for some headers as well... I'd LOVE to keep my 2.5 inch exhaust that I was using with the FlowTech 1 5/8th Block Huggers... John, What say You??? Mike

That is the SAME EXACT motor we are building for my son's Civic. Should be interesting... Mike

If you truly want the best out there, then I usggest you Talk to John Coffee. He can get you sets of Penski remote reservoir struts... Those and coil overs should go well with a set of proper diameter sway bars and bushings.... and maybe some adjustable control arms! Mike

Garage shindig went off without a hitch and we all had a GREAT TIME. Today I'm heading out to My Dad's house to pick up a hammer drill and I'm gonna go ahead and bolt the lift unit down to the floor, and mount the motor and bleed the pump. Then my lift should be done. I get my final inspection this week!!! Moridin, I'll still make them. Case by case, but I'm gonna do them on a more leasure basis UNLESS it is for a racer who needs them ASAP. Then the time table shifts. My support to the racing community will always be JOB 1. Just let me know when you want some. They are $450 per front end, TC ROds and control arms. Mike