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I have been pondering over the idea of making a CF hood for the Z, using my dad's experience with fiber work (he built his own experimental plane from scratch). I need a bit of practice, t hough - I made a carbon fiber spark plug cover for my friends' SR20DET and it is okay, I guess. It is very hard to keep the fibers lined up straight and to keep bubbles out of the top layer of resin that gives it the 'glassy' finish. I'm working on it

No way... Any hatches with true 4AGs? I am dying down here in San Diego.. I am so jealous.... If I actually had any money right now, what i would do is pay you a nice finder's fee if you were to find a hachi for me to buy... too bad.. i need to sell my wagon..

Hey there fellow AE86 enthusiast! I am searching my ass off for a hachiroku to make my daily driver.. I will pay anything.. I am about ready to sell my honda wagon, the most dependable car ever, so I can buy a ratty dinged up primer mobile.. i am going crazy.... but the prospect of swapping in a 20V is just too good..

It is a brand new HEI unit... I think my problem may just be that I don't have a ground strap from the engine to the chassis.. I will hook one up tomorrow and see if current gets around to the ignition.. i think the problem was that the starter was getting plenty of voltage but it wasn't getting around to the ignition so there wasn't enough to produce spark.

Hey again guys... well I decided to go try and break in the motor today. I brought it out into the parking lot beside my house so there'd be plenty of room to work. With the help of a friend I determined that I have fuel pressure, oil pressure, my starter works, and so on. However, I don't have any spark. I have my system wired up exactly as the JTR book recommends, minus an Autometer tachometer. Where are the trouble areas/where should I start looking? What wires need to be hot for the ignition to work? My car is a 240Z. Thanks a lot.

If you're looking for Kumhos, get the Ecsta Supras... the Victoracers are extremely good tires but their wear rating is like 50 compared to the Ecsta's 200 something.. meaning you'll need to replace your tires four or five times as often. I may be wrong or my opinion may be unfounded, but my friend with the SR20DET 510 was looking at Victoracers very closely and decided to go with the Ecsta Supras.. just a suggestion. if you're looking for all out performance hell yeah, the Victoracers are supposed to be great!

He has money on his side... and he's looking for 1200-1500 streetable horsepower.border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

Stony, I am very seriously considering taking Japanese the next few years in college and studying abroad junior year. I too would love to get into the Japanese turbo parts importing business someday! Along with opening my own shop, being an automotive journalist, etc etc..

I'll reserve my comments to myself... except damn!! Project Insane Asylum

Please get a long pump... It would have saved me a lot of stress and money if I had just got a long pump in the first place. But no, I thought the short pump looked better... There are members that successfully use the short pump but the alternator locations are wacky. Only one of them works- the header mount bracket location. this is fine, i guess, but i had a few personal problems with it. in the end it was best to get a short pump because it solved all my worries.

AFAIK, Greg Dupree has the only VG30DETT swap into an early Z car. In any case, he has the best. He is an extremely well respected tuner who specializes in Zcars, especially later models. From what I have heard, he himself states that this swap is a huge pain in the ass. Coming from a guy who knows just about everything there is to know about the VG motor and Zcars in general, I think it'd be a good idea to stay away. Personally, I think the VG is a good motor but takes a lot of tuning and $$$ to make power as well as an RB engine. From what I know, the straight six configuration inherently builds a smoother torque curve and can handle a sh*load more power on a stock bottom end because it has more main bearing caps than the Vee configuration.

Gotcha! Thanks for the clarification! I'm very worried about this whole process because I've never broken in an engine before and I want everything to go perfectly. The clash of recommendations between you and GM just worried me. I feel a lot better now! Thanks again.

Grumpy, I checked out a bottle of EOS at the GM dealer parts counter and they specifically state that they do not recommend adding it to engine oil. They say it should be used as an assembly lube only. What do you think? I trust what you say, but I assume there's a good reason that GM doesn't want me to add it to the oil.

Haha! I know, I remember when my next door neighbor was breaking in his 429 small block Ford in his 68 Mustang fastback. What a beast! The poor old lady across the street thought it was the end of the world. That's definitely been one of my considerations as well when it comes to exhaust or not during break in. Thanks for the info about backpressure

God damn I hate Japan... Prices for everything we can't get here are insanely low.. yet their automotive laws and taxes are insane. Here in america we have pretty cool laws but can't get jack. I guess the only solution is to move to new zealand Oh, and the topic header for this thread was supposed to say Z31.. not Z32.

Thank you very much Grumpy!! I'm sure everything you've recommended will be of great use to me. I want to have total peace of mind that I'm breaking my new baby in right You are easily one of the most valued members on this board, and for good reason. I read that I should set the timing to 20 degrees advance to ensure an immediate start then turn it down for break in - what should the total advance be? I have a vaccuum advance HEI distributor. I guess the only other question is, what about the backpressure? I would feel more comfortable having some (and a little less noise would make me less nervous, and like JTR says, people can hear you yell for help..) but is it really necessary or can I just run the block huggers dumping straight into the ground?

$50 a pair?? $16?? $5???? I can't believe I payed over $130 for a pair of OEM Chevy mounts

Hey Grumpy (and, of course, anyone who knows their salt), I'm curious about the proper break in procedure for a freshly rebuilt 350 with mostly brand new parts (minus the crank, rods, and valves). My cam is a hydraulic flat tappet and I have roller rockers. I've heard lots of different ways to break in the cam, from 1500 RPM for 30 minutes, to 2000 RPM for 20 minutes, to varying stages - 1000 RPM for 5, 1500 for 5, 2500 for 5, 3500 for 5 - things like that. What oil should I use for cam break in? I'll be priming the pump before starting it up. Once the cam's broken in, how long on the street before changing the oil? What should I change it to? What should my street break in procedure be? Take it easy for 500 miles or so? I've never had to go through this procedure before so I need all the help I can get! I wonder how I'll need to get my distributor set up for the initial cam break in? And so on... Thank you guys so much. PS.. I have my electrical all done.. yes!! There weren't any shorts, The gauges all sprung to life when I put the key to ignition, the motor turned right over and the fuel pump turned on. Now I just need to hook up the radiator and stuff like that.. Oh yeah! What kind of backpressure should I use for cam break in? I was thinking I would pick up some 90" mandrel bends and clamp them up to the flanges I have and some $10 glasspacks.. sound OK? I still need to get exhaust figured out.

No, 200ZR... 2.0 liters... Alls I know is, 2.5s are a lot cheaper (by over a grand), there's no piecing together of different engine/trannies/clutches, and I would be changing to a big single turbo setup anyway..,

Look at the rear cover. The R180 has a square-ish casing. The R200 has a round casing. You should be able to tell at a glance.

I know that in Japan there was a car called the 200ZR with a 2.0liter turbo RB engine with an intercooler on top of the engine. It used a 5-speed tranny. So, as far as I can tell, I could grab an RB25DET from a Skyline GT-s, get some of the 200ZR motor mounts and transmission mount(?) and bolt that puppy up. Yes? No? What else is involved? I'm thinking about this for my next car. I'd find a clean 300ZX, strip it completely, rebuild the suspension with all the good stuff, weld in a roll cage, slap in an aluminum dash, and throw in Sparco seat with SDS and a Painless harness.

This has been a nasty little Lexus for a while.. The fellow who owns it is named Clint and is sort of a legend around various messageboards. There was a highly debated video clip taken in-car of him racing a couple of FD RX-7s (popping flames) and a tuned Viper. He was following behind the 7s and the Viper as they were racing, gunned it, and flew past them all (25-140+ probably, on the freeway). Last I heard his car made something like 756hp at the wheels, but these pictures look much more recent. OMG.. I have braided hose envy

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1819012560&r=0&t=0 Something's wrong in this description.. who can guess what it is??

I hate to be judgemental, because I'm not that kind of person, but from my exprience, anyone who joins a Porsche club is a ****ing jerk. Most people that drive Porsches are totally cool, but the ones that are so into their cars that they join a club and have meets and go racing together are elitist pricks. They feel that Porsches are the only sports car in the world, everything else is just rubbish. I have a few issues of Porsche Panorama lying around and I can't read them because the articles reek of elitism. As an example, one time me and a buddy went to watch the autocross in his supercharged 4Runner. The attendant gave us our wristbands, and we signed the liability forms, and drove in to park and watch. We were parked less than two minutes before around five guys (with one mindset) pointedly walked over and asked us to leave. Surprised, we asked what the problem was. We were parked far out of their way, were following the liability rules, and weren't disturbing anything. They insisted that we leave their parking area, one guy getting rather red in the face and starting to fuss like a little baby that the parking lot we were parked in was for Porsche club members ONLY. We told them as politely as possible that they could kiss our asses, and promptly left to go watch the general-class autocross. It's just not worth watching some cool Porsches zip around, popping flames and spinning tires, when their owners take time, effort, and energy to persuade you that you have no business associating with them if you don't own one of their cars. Of course we all know the old joke.. "What's the difference between a cactus and a Porsche? ... On a cactus, the prick is on the outside."

I just took a couple of pictures of one of my friend Kory's 15x8" Weld Draglites on my car. I don't know the offset/backspacing (can measure) but I know that they bolt right up. They are for a 4-lug 5.slow Mustang and are drilled for dual bolt patterns - the Datsun fits into the alternate set of bolt holes than the Mustang uses. The tires are 265/50s. The lug nuts for the Mustang go directly onto those for the Datsun. They clear my coilovers while on jackstands. I would definitely flare my car if I was going to use something in this same size because my car would need it! My coilover setup is a little weird.. I have made a couple of posts about it before. Suffice to say I either need to change the position of the threaded tube or get some longer springs because with the perch all the way up the car is still dumped. With the perch threaded down there will be even more room.