xonix_digital

Why am I having such a hard time getting a set of 225/50/15s?? I got a set of 8"/7.5" wide wheels for my 73 240z with the idea that I would be able to buy tires for them. Well evidently I was wrong! Right now there are no UHP Summer tires available in 225/50/15 anywhere unless you can run racing slicks. All I can find are All seasons (which just won't do) and Hoosiers! I had planned to buy the BF Goodrich G-Force Sports but they are "Back ordered" with no word from the Manufacturer as to when/if they will start up production. I thought this was America?!?! Can't we get whatever we want? If I can't buy 225/50/15s for my 8/7.5" wheels what should I buy?? - humph

Yes. That's the one. They need to work on their SEO. Hard as hell to find them without knowing their name. Thanks!

Hey guys, I remember a while back someone on here was selling a device that you bolt into your diff carrier that supposedly turns it into a limited slip diff without actually changing the diff. now I'm sure this product is not ideal, but I was interested in reading some reviews of their products but I cant find the name of the product, or the name of the manufacturer anywhere. If I remember correctly I saw that they had both an R180 and an R200 option. Now I know my details are a little more than hazy, but if someone could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. Thanks, - Alex

The front end collisions I've seen on 350zs were similar to that one and the unibody was crumpled in the front. If you haven't already, go check it out in person and see if the parts where all the sheet metal comes together in the front and where the suspension system mounts to the car is all straight. If there was a lot of damage to these areas I would pass. 2003 cars with no damage can be found on my350z.com all day for $10k.

Is it the housing that's bent? Make sure you are able to buy the housing if it is. Otherwise Id say just buy new. I don't like horsing around with suspension that has obviously been beat on.

Forget pb blaster. Go get a propane hobby torch and a pipe wrench. Heat it up for about 30 seconds and it'll come right off.

That is the most confusing document I think I've ever tried to decifer. How am I supposed to be reading this thing?

Loved this vid. Great to see and hear about the speed bumps you hit when doing this build. I lol'd at the leg press.

Hey John, Tool worked like a champ. Heating the cast iron part was necessary but after that it slid out without much fuss. Gotta say I couldn't have done it without you. Thanks man! - Alex

You win.

So what your recommendation would be is to cut them out and weld in camber plates? Surely that would be the most prudent!

Is this normal or is this some sort of mickey mouse redrill? This is a 1973 240z. I have never really seen this before. thanks, - A

Ha! Thank you sir! I had been searching with vented inspection lids and found squat. Very much appreciated.

Looks good to me. I am interested in making a set that looks like the original with the louvers. I cant locate a set for the life of me. If anyone can find a pic of the original set with the louvers I would be very grateful!

The ones with louvers. Are these available aftermarket? I thought they were an OEM part? If I am mistaken I would love to see where to get them.

Hey guys, I've been trying to locate a high res photo of a vented inspection door panel from a 240z. Does anyone have some good photos of one hanging around?? also underneath if available. Thanks guys. - A

Baby needs some wheel spacers! For short money Id put it into suspension. Spacers, bushings, springs. Etc. For power under 1000 tho... u would have to know more about exactly what components you were running. Any upgrades during the rebuild?

My goals are maximum fun per dollar spent. Not to sound "ignorant" but Im slapping this motor together to see how it does. Its in the nines it'll be fine. But in all seriousness sacrificing a quench effect is less of a concern than whether or not this motor will make good power (optimal timing or not) on 93. As stated previously when I get it together, if I have to start pulling back the timing due to detonation I will consider using another head. Until then let's just call it an experiment.

What are you grounds for referring to this configuration as being not dependable? Why on earth would I swap my MN47 for an N47? To lower my compression ratio from a conservative 9.2? I am very curious to understand why everyone thinks I should be running a compression ratio in the mid 8s. (which is where I would be with your P79/90 suggestion) I'm just looking for some sort of supporting data that the MN47 has some sort of flaw besides the higher compression capabilities that would justify selling it and swapping for a Z car N47.

These guys have gotten some good references. http://www.hayatonka.com/yahoo.html Not sure if they do much business in the Philippines but check them out and maybe they'll help you out. - Alex

Will do. Thanks.

When I was shopping two words that made me move on were "sunroof" and "bondo". Also rust being "pretty much" not an issue is scary for someone who would have to have the car shipped. They would want you to be 100% sure of what kind of situation it is or else how could they trust it. Just some thoughts after buying in a very rust prone part of the country.

Braap, thank you very much for your expertise and the link. I will read that thread in full. As far as "Measures to combat", I will not really know where I stand until I get it back together and start tuning since I am tossing the EFI setup it came with in the bush and installing my triple Webers. If I have to start retarding the timing on this too much, I will take your advice and look toward a different head, but not before getting some solid dyno time in .

I purchased the motor with this head and the configuration listed. The dished pistons allow the motor to run with a 9.2:1 compression ratio (with a 1mm gasket). If I were to run flat top pistons I would see a ratio in the high 10s. Are you saying that I would see less of a chance of detonation with the cooling properties of the quench/squish event on the piston heads in a flat top configuration, even though its in the 10.8:1 comp ratio range?

Hey guys, My auto mechanic friend says these are ok to be used but I would like a second opinion. there is minor pitting on the top of 5 of the pistons. The worst of which are these two. Piston #2: and Piston #4: Would you guys replace these? In you opinion, does this look like detonation? If I did replace them I would definitely go with a cast aluminum replacement. This motor will not see enough horsepower to justify buying forged. In case it matters I'm building an N42 based L28 with an MN47 head, (obviously) dished pistons, and a 1mm Felpro Head Gasket. Stock everything else. I am replacing the bearing and rings just because I have it apart. The center cap crank bearing was the only one that showed any wear at all.