stony

sorry some issues with loading pics will be up in 30 minutes

loading pics now. not alot visually but its ready for all the interior tin and should be rolling out in mid april ready for electronics and maybe some dyno tuning :> will post pics sometime today

YEP... do a search there are a couple guys doing it.

You better start getting a stockpile of half shafts, your gonna need them. If your clutch holds and the tires grab you will break them. my best 60foot with the clutch was a 1.7 and that was spinning the hell out of my drag radials. when i started tuning the tire pressure is when al my problems started.

Are you sure about that???? Im not a toyota fanatic so im not 100% sure I was in japan for 11 years and it seemed like they came with both. either that or there was alot of swaps happening. or maybe it was the Aristo that came with the 2JZ turbo. I believe that car was also offered in the US.

Thats an anti lag tune. they dump lots of fuel during shifts to keep the turbine spooled. i didnt see anything but maybe some track debris kicking up on the side of the track as he went by. And jes that is a 2JZ. it came stock in the Toyota soarer ( same as the lexus in the US) in japan

I snagged a set of venom reman. injectors... 1000CC They are Nippon denso. I was just wondering if anyone had any experience with them or any remanufactured infectors. Are they worth the money ( not much ) or should I shell out the big bux for a new set?

BTW i cant make this year obviously but next year may be something i'd be interested in trying to do. Kind of along haul though would have to see if a couple sponsors could help out up here. I may have a pretty considerable update on mine here soon :> more to come:burnout:

B/S mine was 51 front 49 rear with my rb26. my motor was not as far back and low aS possible. There were more weight reduction things i could have done to get it more 50 50. with a good suspension/tuning the rb26Z would be an awesome track car. **** the bone stock motor can produce 350rwhp (yes thats stock booste too). The main (neccessary) mod you would have to do would be the oiling system. not even sure if thats really needed on a bone stock rb26. My 2 cents Wow the rb swap is number 3 behind the l-6 turbo and GM v-8 getting pretty popular now :> considering the v-8 and l-6 turbo swap have been around longer thats not bad considering mine and the blue one from canada were the only 2 completed 5 years ago in north america.

It does say booste control on the diagram. But I'm still pretty sure Its a sensor for controlling boost with a fuel cut. if you overboost it will cut fuel and booste will drop. that is why alot of guys put the boost cut defencer's in. This tricks the computer into thinking you are at a lower booste then you are and not cutting fuel. I had an rb25 when i was in japan and it was a manually controlled boost system that had LINES plumbed directly off the intake and this is what controlled the wastegate actuator.

I may be wrong but the solenoid you are seeing is probably a signal for the computer to know when an overbooste condition exists to cut fuel and not to control boost. The vacuum signal to the waste gate actuator controls boost. It is not the same solenoid you have fro the GReddy Profec B-Spec II. Anyway you can post the wiring diagram?

Stolen car graveyard :>

Customs?

Jay hitchcock's gallery http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=12636 Darius's car looked similar last time i saw it but i know he didnt go as radical on teh front suspension

This looks badass!!!!!! Darius????

not a 280ZX but here is the info on my swap. i did the exact same thing but to a 260. Had all teh same problems and got them fixed. i was able to adjust teh camber and caster with teh use of AZC front control arms with no problem actually got them back to stock specs. Anyways look at these links http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=70957 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=82357 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=71077

do you have any pictures? That was the next step for me but decided to go with a solid rearend. I still broke the bigger stubs on the z31 after i built it. it didnt help i was using a twin plate clutch and had upgraded to 4:88 rear gears. for the street i think it would have been fine but on a prepped track just didnt cut it in my application. I think going with an automatic would have helped to but oh well, It will be done now :> and will hold the 700+ RWHP i plan on throwing at it

:>