stony

I bet it would be faster then most other street cars. even a non prepped rb26 with that big of a turbo is good for 500+rwhp and 400+ ftlbs of torque. I will say.... there are cars that are offlimits to swaps other then original, Cars like a yenko or any other very low production car. but in something like that stang..... if it makes it go fast im all for it. In fact im for anything that makes any kind of car go faster. weather it be its original engine or a transplanted.

I think It's cool as hell. I kinda thought there would be more room in there for it though.

I searched but couldnt find it and i dont have the pics but. somewhere in the old Hyrbidz.org archives there is a thead that has pics and explains how to tell tthe differnce. you have to take the cover off and look at the diff unit itself. maybe someone with alot of patience can find this?????

How many of the clutch type long nose r-200 do they have?

Like I said earlier the only way for this to really be a good deal for anyone is you’d have to crate up like 15 diffs and ship them thru a cargo company. They charge by the size of the box not the weight of the box. For example last time I did it out of Japan a 1 meter cubed box cost 1300.00 you could fit 2-3 engines in a box that size. The box I sent was less than 1 meter and it held 13 r200 long nose diffs. You can split the diffs but you have to be really careful you don’t mix up the shims inside the diff. still going to cost 200+ to ship that way. I skimmed back thru this thread did you state how much the diffs would be?

Im not a turbo expert but i made 392RWHP with stock rb26 turbos at 15 PSI and 352RWHP at 8psi. i think they would do good on an L-28. If you get a set make sure you get a non ceramic wheel turbos. they dont take anymore then 15 PSI for long

So vinny dosnt have to repeat himself

You pull the CV axles out of the diff then get the stubs that go into the diff that bolt up to the halfshafts. they are the same spline count and work great you just need to make sure you get them on the right side.

For the record those long nose r200s are bolt in and all you need are the stub shafts that go in the r-200 with the halfshafts. (78 280Z with the r-200 stock) just chuck the CV axles and plug in the haftshafts and your good. But shipping on a r-200 (85LBS) from overseas is gonna be killer.. If you could get a crate of say 15 -20 at 100-150 bux a peice together someone could sell the ones they dont need and make some money out of it.

One just ended on ebay but didnt sell Gnose on ebay i bet he wants 10K +

Sorry to have let this go on so long didn’t realize it had gotten little fugly in here. The rb25 tranny does have an electrical sender that "should" work I did a bit of research when it was in my car just never got around to it. It has 2 wires coming out... a ground and a power. The tach has I believe a couple wires also. All it does is reads the pulses from the sender. The tach would have to be calibrated to the speed of the car to the speed of the pulses there are detailed instructions on how to do this on the autometer web page in the instruction section. As far as the tach.... the car I got my new motor from had an autometer tach hooked up to it with no special adapters and it worked fine. Ask over at skylines down under they deal with nothing but skyline stuff and should have the answer readily available. I would search as you will probably get slammed over there to for asking such a "simple" question without searching first. In the future any post that goes bad ie name calling and crap lie that will be delt with swiftly. Keep the post of a technical or friendly nature and we won’t have problems. For those of you who think I'm being too harsh read the rules and guidlines at the top of the page.

Ok the 2 identical questions are merged now. jl87ma please read your own post and dont repost the same question over and over again.

As mentioned above you probably have an engine that has had the serial number modded. Lots easier to do that then to get the title changed to reflect L-28. Im kind of an old school guy in japan i had an L-28 that was stamped l-20 in my newman skyline back in the day. Can you take a pic of the serial number area? Its sometimes pretty obvious if you see it next to a block that has not been tampered with. If i remember correctly all teh L series cams are pretty much interchangable and they probably threw whatever they had in it. L-28 parts are getting pretty scarce over there now a days. If it ever needs to be replaced or rebuilt youd be better off going with an rb26.

a long nose r200 weighs close to 85 lbs. they have to be split apart to ship USPS. and it still comes out to about 150 bux. I also shipped a crate full of r200s for 1200.00 from japan. One diff at a time From anywhere in asia will not be worth it. Sorry

There is a difference between hi shipping and charging hi "handling costs" i lived in japan and even in alaska its an everyday thing to have to pay out the *** for shipping. BUT 38 freakin bux to send a set of headlights anywhere is BS. It's not illegal so all im trying to get across is read before you bid. i didnt and gave away 30 bux in my opinion. not worth the neg feedback so i bought them. they will look good in the car

Not sure this is a scam but is something to watch out for. wasnt big money but i won a set of those diomond HID lookalike headlights for the Z for 6 bux. i wasnt paying attention to shipping. figured it would be too much. I got the invoice and i owed 42 dollars... I was like WTF!!!!! I went back and looked at the auction and all the way down at the bottem and it was listed. 38 Bux shipping and HANDLING to alaska!!!! So not really a scam but for sure a rip off. and not as good a deal as i thought. for sure wouldnt have bought them for that much. Again not saying they are crooks and it is clearly listed i just didnt see it before i bid. . see them here

cool care to chat? i will be in there for a bit

3:36 are kinda tall. maybe its the tranny gearing ???? Anyway are you getting alot of tire spin in first gear?? If so maybe a stickier set of tires will help. are you drag racing it? If so auto will always be faster. Just my 2 cents

Sorry off topic but i think its worth a look as it looks like the frontend swapping is starting to catch on in the US like it is in japan Everytime i see or hear magnum anymore i think of the Overhaulin 300c magnum. dont know what im talking about??? check this out.

Cool deal you thinking about using the entire sub frame? or just the diff? before you rip it apart you should see how close it is to fitting under a zcar and what it would take to get it to fit.

i have had my eye on this I asked if it was everything in the pic or just the diff. i got a reply that it is for everything. anyone even thinking of doing the complete rearend swap even guys wanting to do the AWD swap you need to jump on this.

More then likely its welded.

Remember though if the stubshaft breaks the wheel will come off. Trust me in know from expeirience. the only thing that kept the tire under the car was the brake caliper. If your gonna do a hi HP track for safety's sake upgrade to a solid rearend now it will save you a couple headaches also .

here is what mine looked like before surgery heres a pic of the old motor and here are some in its current state. body still looks the same its wants underneath thats changing Should be ablr to fit some pretty nice size tire in here

It fits fine in the Z. I had a rb25 bolted into mine before the rb26 but the motor had spun bearing in it so i didnt use it and went with a rb26.